Engine Stalls & Dies

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  #1  
Old 04-19-02, 04:37 PM
Coork
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Briggs 16 HP twin stalls under load

I have a 16 HP twin Briggs and Straon that stalls when load is placed on engine (engaing cutting deck or attempting movement).
I have replaced the carb. and still does the same, compression in both cylinders 100 + PSI. Engine will rev to high RPM manually. Gas tank has been drained, fuel lines blown out. Could this be a govenor problem ? Note I can see gas streaming in to carb as motor stalls.
 
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  #2  
Old 04-19-02, 05:26 PM
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Hello and Welcome Coork to our Do-It-Yourself Web Site and our Small Engine forum.

The problem you described is usually caused by lean carb mixture settings. If you replaced the carb and it's adjusted correctly that may not be the problem.

The other potential problem could be the gov linkage, if it was reassembled incorrectly. If the linkage is dirty or bent do to damage etc. it will cause the same problem your describing.

Engine timing may play a part if it was every altered or the blade came to an abrupt stop when striking something solid. Which means the shear pin on the flywheel may have been damaged.

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  #3  
Old 04-19-02, 11:26 PM
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Are both cylinders firing? The coil may be breaking down. Other than that, Tom has you on track. I've seen them lose a cylinder and still run relatively fine until you put a load on it.

If it's a v-twin, you have 2 coils. If it's an opposed twin engine, there is only one coil, with 2 leads.
 
  #4  
Old 04-23-02, 04:43 PM
bwiesner
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It is possible it is one of you safety switches malfuncting and causing it to kill the engine, by grounding out the ignition and causing you to loose fire. Later Butch
 
  #5  
Old 04-23-02, 07:12 PM
Coork
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Still down

It is a opposed twin engine, single coil with two leads. Appears to be firing correctly, I plan to remove the fly wheel this weekend. (I do not have a puller and will have to find one Saturday) A friend suggested that the exhaust may be blocked, to pull exhaust and check for blockage. Do not think lean carb is problem, if I manually goose linkage fuel sprays heavy into carb.
 
  #6  
Old 04-23-02, 08:07 PM
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There's no need to remove the flywheel. There is nothing under it but a charging stator. It won't affect the way the engine runs. You can check the shear pin by removing the flywheel bolt or nut and looking at it. It shouldn't be the problem.

I feel like you have a lean-run problem, or an ignition problem. When those things lean out, they still can spew gas down the carb throat. Try this....when the engine tries to die, choke it or put your hand over the carb intake for a second and then remove it, or take the choke off. Does it try to straighten out then? Those carbs are bad about leaning out, and if you didn't change the fuel filter when you changed the carb, there may well be trash in the main jet again. Try doing the choke thing, and let us know what you find.
 
  #7  
Old 04-24-02, 12:23 AM
Fisher
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I am with Butch. To test the theory, disconnect
the kill wire to the coil and try it, of course you
will have to choke it to shut it down. It sounds
too much like a safety switch related problem to
not try it. I agree on not trying to remove the
flywheel also.
Fish
 
  #8  
Old 04-24-02, 04:39 PM
bwiesner
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Try checking the fire when you engage the blade, I'll bet you're loosing fire. One of the safety switches is causing your problem. It will do just what you're describing, just as soon a you let the clutch out or engage the blades it dies. Unhook the yellow wire that runs to the rigth side of the engine just under the air filter. It just plugs onto a tab that sticks out there. Like cheese said you can remove the flywheel but it won't do you any good. If it runs ok with no load, there is nothing there that will effect anything. You'ed be wasting your time. Later Butch
 
  #9  
Old 04-24-02, 09:38 PM
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OK...if it is shutting right down like it got turned off when you engage the blades or try to move, then I agree with Butch and Fisher. Your seat safety switch would be the most likely culprit there. If it bogs down and slowly dies, then I would look at carb or ignition probs. My 1st interpretation of your post was that it tried to run, but died out....although there isn't really anything there to lead me to think that, lol. The seat safety switch is the only one that should shut the mower down when you try to move AND when you engage the blades.
 
  #10  
Old 04-27-02, 08:52 AM
Coork
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It works!!! Thanx.

Pulled yellow wire, put wire back together tractor runs fine.It was like the suggestion I give to the people that work for me look for the simple stuff first then if that does not work start tearing it apart. Guess I need to folllow my own advice. Thanx for the help TED.
 
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