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11 hp b&S


boman's Avatar
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05-08-02, 03:56 PM   #1  
11 hp b&S

i got a 11 hp b&s i changed the crank in it .Put all back together,call myself timing it right . the dot on the crank gear and the dot on the cam gear are align up. Still no start it acts like it wants to turn but dont .plenty of gas and fire .PLEASE HELPPPPPP

 
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cheese's Avatar
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05-08-02, 11:09 PM   #2  
Hi boman!

What happened to it to need crank replacement? Did you check the flywheel key? Did you check the valve lash?


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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05-09-02, 03:07 AM   #3  
What happened to it to need crank replacement?

Hi Cheese. My son posted that guestion. He changed motors on an old Snapper rider that had a tapered shaft. The motor he replaced it with had a non-tapered shaft shaft, and he was told he would could not buy a tapered shaft for the new motor. I'm thinking the 'new' motor is one that the keeper had jumped off of one of the valves, and I told him he needed to check the valves to make sure they are closing at the proper time. On that note, aren't the valves supposed to be closed when he lines the timimg marks up? In other words, can he have it out of time even if the marks are lined up?

 
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05-09-02, 11:11 PM   #4  
No, if the marks line up, it is in time no matter whether the engine is on exhaust or compression stroke, valves open or closed. Let us know what you find. When you have both fuel and spark, but it still won't run, the diagnosis procedure gets a little involved sometimes, lol.


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05-10-02, 02:33 AM   #5  
I was over there yesterday. It seems to be trying to bind somewhere. I told him maybe the shafts were too different, 1000th of an inch or smaller or something. I also found out that the engine he put the shaft in is the one that a keeper had jumped off a valve on. Maybe a warped valve? Heheh, I'm at a loss here. I'm thinking the cam gears , crankshaft, etc. may not be matching up.

 
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05-10-02, 07:32 AM   #6  
11 hp b&s

hey cheese i needed to change the crank where a snapper pulley would work on the motor.one crank was bevel and the other was straight which fits the snapper. thanks

 
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05-11-02, 12:44 AM   #7  
The journals and cam and crank gears should be the same on most all 11 hp engines. Emphasise MOST, lol. The balancers can be different though, and that MAY be the problem. A bent and binding valve can be easily checked. Did you use the same camshaft and oil pan (base)?


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05-12-02, 01:09 AM   #8  
Hey Cheese, he is bench testing this engine. He has it mounted on a wooden workbench with no pulley, I think. Would this have an affect on the balancing part? He also was trying to start it with a battery charger/booster with the ground clamp on the engine and touching the hot lead to the starter. Should it start this way?

Just up late here, or is it early, anyway, thought I might fill you in on the workbench setup. Hole in the bench, motor set on the bench over the hole with the shaft sticking through the hole.

By the way, I am not sure this shaft changing is going to work on the Snapper. It has no drive belt, the pulley rides against the clutch, which has a rubber-like ban around it. I think I am telling that right. Anyway, I'm thinking the tapered shaft was designed to work with that specific type clutch and the straight shaft may not allow it to pull itself properly. It is an old rear engine Snapper that you can raise the front end and stand it on its back end. Then you can swing the deck around to one side. Kind of a strange animal, but he said it cuts really good. Heheh, I was really confused when I couldn't find a drive belt on it. If nothing else, he is getting experience working on these engines.


Last edited by boman; 05-12-02 at 01:31 AM.
 
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05-12-02, 11:08 PM   #9  
I am very familiar with those old snappers, lol, and they are tough! They just don't quit! The straight crankshaft won't be any problem. They come new with straight shafts, and the engine with the tapered shaft probably wasn't original, as tapered shafts are generally only found on generator engines. As far as cranking it without the pulley, it won't be any problem at all, but the battery charger deal isn't good, and will cause starting probs. Good luck! cheese


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05-13-02, 02:06 AM   #10  
The straight crankshaft won't be any problem.

Sorry Cheese, I got a little confused. Actually, the tapered shaft was put into another engine to be put on the Snapper so he could use the tapered pulley. So, the shafts being same size other than one being straight and one being tapered, I see no problem either. He was told by a parts house here that the tapered pulleys were not available. No, actually, he was told a straight pulley was not available to substitute for the tapered pulley. That is why the shafts were changed. I had the engine running fine on the deck. What is the best way to bench test an engine like this? I told him he may need the ignition switch, selonoid, etc.. Comment?

P.S. Can the tapered pulley be drilled/honed out and made to work on the straight shaft?

 
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05-13-02, 08:51 PM   #11  
If the pulley is tapered inside, then this is something I've never seen on a snapper. Maybe it does require the tapered shaft. This pulley you're talking about, is it a large, round, flat disc, with a pulley on top? The diameter of the disc being around 8 inches or so? If so, it sounds like any other snapper pulley I have seen, but the inside being made to fit a tapered shaft is a new one on me.

For bench testing the engine, just use a battery and jumper cables. Clamp the negative to the block, and touch the positive to the starter post. It will spark, so make sure there are no gas spills, etc...


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05-14-02, 03:15 AM   #12  
For bench testing the engine, just use a battery and jumper cables. Clamp the negative to the block, and touch the positive to the starter post.

That is what he is doing, except with a battery charger/booster set on 12 volts. Maybe I should let him take a battery, keep it charged and use it instead.
I'll need to take a better look at the pulley and get back with you on that, but, yes, it is tapered on the inside.
My danged back went out on me, but when I can, I think I will go over and start from scratch and see if I can get that thing going for him. I especially want to look at the valves. The engine turns, but it turns in a jerky- like way.

 
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05-15-02, 12:02 AM   #13  
It's probably due to the charger. Use a battery. It will make a difference.


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05-15-02, 03:40 AM   #14  
I'll need to take a better look at the pulley and get back with you on that, but, yes, it is tapered on the inside.
Wrong! I went over and had a look, it is not tapered on the inside. The pulley is a disk with a pulley on top that the drive belt runs in. Hard to believe they are not available. I think when my son says 'tapered', it is throwing everyone off. When I hear tapered, I think pointed. Sorry about the errors, but he has 4 or 5 riders he has been tinkering with and I get a little confused about the whats and whys on them if I am not there working on them with him. The one day I was over there checking it out for him, I couldn't get the transmission to go in neutral ( made the engine hard to turn), so I told him to loosen the pulley. I also reset the flywheel and coil gap. Thats when it started turning freely and I finally got it to start and run. This thing had sit for a long time with parts missing, and I'm beginning to think he has gone to all this trouble because of a sticking shifter/transmission.

Tx for your patience. When I get back over there and get a firm idea of exactly what we are dealing with, I will let you know what I find out.

 
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