B&S Engines

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  #1  
Old 05-09-02, 09:22 AM
Joe_F
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B&S Engines

Ok Cheese and the other guys:

Here's a good one for you. Who is a good source for new/rebuilt B&S engines? I am thinking of getting one for my Little Wonder Edger that I found (it runs but it leaks out oil and I think the crank is wiped).

It's a 91232 type, with a horizontal shaft. 3.5 hp.

Unfortunately, I am seeing that motors cost around 200 bucks for this thing and Sears runs a unit with a Tecumseh engine for about 230 bucks.

Which brings me to another thing I've been wanting to know. Do you like Tecumseh or B&S better?

Personally, I find that Tecumseh engines run longer, stronger, better and start easier. I find them to be far superior to B&S, however B&S has excellent web support and information. They were quite helpful.

I guess it must be that Indian thing . I own Pontiacs, and since Tecumseh and Pontiac were both Indians, I guess I stick with what works. Lol.

Opinions on a good reasonable source for the engine is appreciated.

Thanks,
 
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  #2  
Old 05-09-02, 09:42 AM
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You might try a reapir shop near you to see if they ccan get you a short block. Might also want to check Harbor Freight or Northern Equipment
 
  #3  
Old 05-09-02, 01:10 PM
Frosty
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:)

Sticking with the Indians, haha.

Joe_F = "Dances with Engines"
 
  #4  
Old 05-09-02, 06:04 PM
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Joe,
I worked my way through school repairing lawnmowers. That was many years ago. The Tecumseh engines seemed to have about the same amount of problems as the Briggs. They were much harder to work on back then. Spark timing required a dial indicator for TDC. We used to hate to see a Craftsman come in.
The Briggs seemed to get less crank and internal damage. I have always believed that it was due to the aluminum key on the flywheel. They sheared a lot, but it seemed to take some of the blows that the Tecumseh crank had to absorb. I haven't owned a Tecumseh in 20 years so I'm not sure how they're made now.

If you just have a worn spot on your crank, Chicago Rawhide makes an item called a "Speedy Sleeve". You can buy them at any bearing house. It pesses on to your shaft at the seal lip suface and will last as long as your crank did. Otherwise I would recommend a short block and keep the Briggs.
 
  #5  
Old 05-09-02, 07:28 PM
Joe_F
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Thanks Dan. I believe it's more than just that though. The compression is poor on the motor. Likely why it was pitched.

It leaks oil and runs choppy, so it probably has other issues as well. Replacing it with a short block is a 200 dollar endeavor, I can probably buy a whole machine for 200 bucks used or like new.

My goal was to score a display model at Sears or Home Depot at a discount. I always do better this way .

I suppose I could try the Save a Bearing (Federal Mogul makes it too) and see what happens to it.

I have found the Tecumseh's to start faster and run stronger. I try to avoid hitting things . I did wipe out my 1979 Craftsman back in 1991 by hitting a tree stump! Lol.

Thanks for the information and I will check out some sources of engines and make a decision on it.
 
  #6  
Old 05-09-02, 10:51 PM
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Hi Joe! I lean toward Briggs & Stratton heavily. The old techumsehs were strong and well built, and hard to work on. The new ones are cheap and made of soft metal. They wear too quick, and the carbs are basically disposable. Techumseh is like the ford of the small engine world. Some of the briggs are getting cheap too, but they are overall superior in my opinion.

How can I PM you? (about the 3.5 hp engine)
 

Last edited by cheese; 05-09-02 at 11:39 PM.
  #7  
Old 05-10-02, 08:21 AM
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Just a comment here. A cousin of mine who worked in small engines for a big part of his life once told me they would have brand spanking new Tecumseh small engines come in leaking oil as soon as they were sold. Talking small engines here, go-karts, push moweres, etc.. He did say the bigger engines were pretty good. I have kind of avoided them myself, but the ones I did have did seem to run pretty good while I had them.

P.S. The comment on the smaller engines applies to several years ago.

By the way, Have the valves been checked on the edger that was picked up? Got points in it? If so, you might want to look for oil leakage at the point plunger. Have a push mower doing that now. It being a vertical shaft, the oil pools up and drowns the points. Maybe the edger being horzonal, it does not have the chance to pool, but it still makes it run rough? You may want to change it to electronic for a few bucks. Just a thought.
 
  #8  
Old 05-11-02, 04:07 AM
Joe_F
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Cheese: [email protected] Thanks.

Boman: It's a 1994/95 model, so it's surely electronic. I have all the books from B&S on it. They'll send you whatever you want so long as you know what you need. They were very helpful .

The crank physically moves up and down, for sure. I got B&S manual from the library and did some basic tests, like the "flywheel spring back" test for compression. It stays put and doesn't spring back.

We've got problems Houston . 125 bucks for a short block, probably another 35 bucks in incidentals like a carb repair kit and other details, and we're nearing 200 bucks.

I can buy a new one from Sears, closeout, for 229 . I'm open to ideas though. I might take it apart to LEARN what happened to it.

Thanks guys.
 
  #9  
Old 05-11-02, 05:02 AM
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I might take it apart to LEARN what happened to it.

Heheh, sounds like something I would do. I bought a 3.5 edger from a guy moving back to Oregon for $10.00. Very good B&S engine, but has a fuel leak where the fuel hose attaches to the tank. I took some plastic tie straps and tried to weld it, and almost succeeded. It still has a small leak, but at ten bucks for the edger, I can put a new tank on it if I decide to. If gas goes very much higher I may need the engine for a go-kart!
 
  #10  
Old 05-11-02, 10:33 PM
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Hey boman.........you couldn't get the leak stopped with the soldering iron and straps? Maybe I have a hotter iron than yours, I generally don't have any problems doing it. Oh well, lol.
 
  #11  
Old 05-13-02, 09:13 AM
Joe_F
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If ya got it running and it's solid, it's worth the asking price for a new tank. I can't see that tank being more than 25 bucks. Then you have a great working machine .

Good job.

I did get the Tecumseh powered 4.0 HP mower going in my other post. Needs a carburetor rebuild though, but it does run .
 
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