Engine Seized

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  #1  
Old 06-11-02, 12:36 PM
Riz
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Question Seized engine on Snapper rear engine Rider

Hi, I have a 1984 Snapper 8hp electric start rear engine rider. (Model 28083S). This past weekend the engine seized completely.
I love the mower and want to repair or replace the engine. It's a Briggs and Stratton, Model 190707, Type 1190-01, code 8011910.

Can these be rebuilt at this point? (is there enough clearance for boring?)

How about an engine replacement? Is there a source for remanufactured small engines? I know I can buy a new B&S for $400 but I'd rather go with something a little more reasonable and more in line with the appearance of the mower now.

Thanks for any ideas (short of telling me to buy a new one!)

Riz
 
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  #2  
Old 06-11-02, 08:37 PM
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Hello and Welcome Riz to our Do-It-Yourself Web Site and our Small Engine forum.

I doubt your going to find any small engine repair shop that will want to rebuild the existing engine. Replacing the engine with a new one is most likely the best, if not the only choice, you'll have.

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  #3  
Old 06-11-02, 10:32 PM
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I agree....probably not even worth trying to rebuild if you COULD find a shop willing to try. New engines for this can be had for less than 400 bucks though.
 
  #4  
Old 06-12-02, 05:30 AM
Riz
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Thanks for the input! Actually I was thinking of doing the rebuild myself. I'd only need to have the .10 boring done at a shop, otherwise I could do the rest. I was wondering if these models even allowed for a .10 over, and if this was even worthwhile as opposed to getting a short block, or a total remanufactured. Apparently, from what I've been able to tell from searches, there really isn't anyone supplying rebuilt small engines.

Tough call....with a new Snapper for under $1000, it's hard to justify a $400 engine in a 20+ year old mower. I'd prefer to keep it, but I'm not having much luck...

Thanks again for the input!

Riz
 
  #5  
Old 06-12-02, 05:38 AM
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You could check a company called Northern Supply. They carry replacement engines. Have you contacted your local repair shop for the cost of a short block. Might also want to take a look at this site. http://www.jackssmallengines.com/bsengv.cfm
 
  #6  
Old 06-12-02, 01:54 PM
J A Boggan
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Riz,
I have bored out several engines from .010 to .030, and I haven't ever gotten truly satisfactory results. The most of the time cutting that small amount of metal out will cause the engines to run a good bit hotter. There is a friend of mine that bores them out and inserts a sleeve in the cylinder. He's always telling me that he dosen't have any problems. He is a semi-professional and I can believe what he says. He also has his own machine shop. I never have tried this "yet" but I plan on trying it the next time I need to get one bored out. One other thing, pull you head off and thoroghly inspect the cylinder walls for heavy scratching and scoreing. Also take some inside micrometers and see if the cylinder is out of round or just badly worn. Mic it in three places from top to bottom. This could tell you if it is worth spending money on. It may have some heavy damage. Spend some quality time doing this so you can get some true results. Hope this helps, I hate to give up on an engine too. If you do this, be sure and check you ring-end gaps before putting them on your piston.
 
  #7  
Old 06-12-02, 10:52 PM
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Unless you have a cast iron sleeve in the cylinder, the engine probably won't take a rebuild too well if the cylinder walls are scored. Even if bored. I won't say it's impossible to acheive good results, but the time and money and tools required will exceed the cost of a new short block, if you do it right. If the engine siezed, the crankshaft is likely galled, there may be main bearing damage, cylinder scoring, piston damage, rod damage, and other possible things that will need to be checked and measured with precision instruments. Then the cost of all gaskets and seals. Then when you're done, you still have a used engine, just with some new parts. Don't get me wrong, I've seen a few engines that broke a rod and the owner just stuck a new rod in it, without checking anything, and ran it for another 2 or 3 years. It's a game of chance doing it that way.
 
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