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2 Cycle Engine Question


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07-14-02, 07:05 AM   #1  
Joe_F
Attn: "Fish" & Cheese.

Not Fish and Chips, but Fish and Cheese .

My sister called me up that she got me a gas blower at a garage sale for free. "Take it honey. It ran in the spring, but I believe it just needs a new spark plug....your brother should be able to get it running".

It is a:

McCulloch 320BV blower/vac.
Model: 40023200
Serial: 21-016333

Champion states it uses a DJ8J spark plug at 025" gap. I always stock a case of J19LM's .

It says it meets 1995 California standards so it has to be at least that new.

My questions:

1) What should I do before starting it? It's a 2 cycle, I'm a little new to those things . My last 2 cycle engine, a 1985 Suzuki FA50 moped, had automatic mixing. I'll get the ratios of fuel/oil from McCulloch, I've already jotted down the # to call them for the owner's book.

2) Any idea how old it is? Is it any good (I figured how could I go wrong for free). I always thought McCulloch was half way decent.

Thanks for any advice gents.

 
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07-14-02, 08:11 PM   #2  
Hi Joe!

There shouldn't be much to do before trying to start it. Check the air filter, make sure your fuel lines are in good shape, and dump any gas that may be in the tank. Fill with fresh gas, probably a 50:1 ratio, but check to be sure. I don't know that you'll have any luck with the customer svc # for McCulloch. There have been some changes with that company. I'm not sure if they're completely out of business, or just what. I know parts are sometimes a challenge to get.

McCulloch is/was a decent product usually. Not the best, but better than the run-of-the-mill stuff. (IMO) Let us know if you run into problems starting it!


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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07-15-02, 07:44 PM   #3  
Joe_F
I called them today and they said an owner's and parts manual are 6 bucks each. I'm going to call their customer service area and make a huge stink.

The manuals should be able to be downloaded for free. I want to know about this machine before I get into it.

 
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07-16-02, 09:38 AM   #4  
Joe_F
Topic Edited

>>>>>>>>>>>>> Moderators Note: <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
Opening statements in this posting have been edited out.
Even though the statements were in the opinion of the posting party, they were negative towards the product manufacturer without clearly stating so, as an opinion.

Edited out: xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx.

1) "Owner's manuals cost six bucks sir". Keep it I told her. If you don't have it to download on the web for free, you're behind the eight ball. Your competitors have it for free. (MTD for instance).

2) 40:1 ratio. Cheese, please elaborate for a 2 cycle newbie here . I have a dedicated gas can I'm going to use to store the mix for this machine. What's the best way to mix/figure out what I need to keep on hand here.

3) I'll change the plug. That's easy

4) Anyone out there have this machine and wouldn't mind getting me a copy/scanning of the owner's manual? If I had bought it for a good sum of money, I'd pay them for the owner's manual. Not for a freebie that might be shot though. Lol.


Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-21-02 at 01:46 PM.
 
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07-16-02, 07:42 PM   #5  
A 40:1 ratio means 1 part 2 cycle oil to 40 parts gas. You can buy a small bottle of oil pre-measured at 40:1 to treat 1 gallon of gas. Larger bottles will tell you how much oil to add per gallon. An owner's manual really isn't important, unless you want the parts breakdown....which probably won't help much if you need a part, because the prices on most of their parts, if you can find them, exceed the value of the machine. I'm actually surprised that you were able to contact them. I've heard so many stories on their company status that all I can say for sure is that they have been unstable for some time now.


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07-16-02, 09:49 PM   #6  
Joe_F
Cheese:

They are a clueless bunch and they could just about tell me it was 40:1 and that they no longer make the units. In fact, I don't think they make ANY blowers like that anymore.

I simply went to www.mccullochpower.com and called the # they had there. Got right through .

 
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07-20-02, 08:26 PM   #7  
Joe_F
One Mac in working order

Fellas:

I added an oil and gas mixture to the old Mac (which I discovered is from 1996) and cleaned the plug. It fired up but didn't seem to have much power and had trouble restarting.

I then noticed that the engine seemed loose. I took it apart and found the head gasket screws a little loose and some oil around things. I snugged up the screws, put it all back together and fired it up. Started easier, ran smoother and had more power (that thing can scream. Lol).

I'd like to get the vacuum attachments for it eventually if it turns out to staying running well. Any ideas besides those xxxxxxxx at McCulloch who want 6 bucks for an owner's manual? Lol.

Thanks for all the help.


Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-21-02 at 01:48 PM.
 
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07-21-02, 12:12 AM   #8  
Try a local repair shop. The ones in my area have literal piles of junked 2 strokers for parts. In my opinion, the vacuum is a waste. They don't work well, take more time to get up leaves than a rake, and the bag that the shredded leaves go into gets heavy real quick. I use a lawn sweeper pulled behind my lawn tractor to get the leaves up, but I do use a blower to blow the leaves off my 2 decks and back porch, lol (I like decks and porches...one at every door).


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07-21-02, 05:12 PM   #9  
Joe_F
Good idea Cheese.

I used the Mac a little while ago and it started right up as per the starting procedure on the label. It ran pretty well and blew up a storm, so I know it's working .

I'll see how long it lasts before I invest any money into it. 2 cycles seem like throwaways

 
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07-22-02, 03:34 AM   #10  
J A Boggan
Joe_F,
If you are intrested, the gas/oil mixing ratio is 128 divided by 40 = 3.2 ounces of oil per gallon of gas.

There are 128 ounces per gallon.

 
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07-22-02, 06:06 AM   #11  
Joe_F
Thanks.

When I got the quart of oil from the hardware store, it had the appropriate chart on the back for 40:1

I simply put a gallon of gas in a dedicated can, and put in 3.2 ounces of oil (You can tell by the clear "Meter" on the side of the oil bottle). I sloshed it around mixed it up and poured it into the tank of the unit.

Since this is my only 2 cycle unit (I'm a four cycle guy myself...lol), I'll keep this tank for this purpose and machine.

 
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08-09-02, 09:45 AM   #12  
Joe_F
Hard starting at times

Cheese:

It's hard starting at times. I'm going to dump out the oil and gas mix and head to the hardware store and get the container for 40:1 already done.

I'll save the container and in the future, I'll be able to make up the right gas/oil mix. Noticed it smoked a bit too, hadn't been doing that.

I think the ratio is off. I didn't mix it too scientifically the first time because I was eager to get it rolling .

I'll go to the gas station and add a gallon of fuel so I know I have the proper amount of each.

What's the cold and warm start procedures?

The start procedure is on the unit, but it doesn't say cold or hot:

1) Move lever to choke.
2) Prime 10 times.
3) Pull starter cord 4 times.
4) Move to start.
5) Pull cord...should start in four tries.
6) After 10 seconds of warm up, move lever to run.

What do you think?

Thanks.

 
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08-09-02, 11:03 PM   #13  
That is the cold start procedure. It is best to prime it until the primer bulb is moving a good bit of fuel through the carb....whether that is 5 times, or 15 times. Then, with engine fully choked...pull the cord while holding throttle wide open. When it starts, or sounds like it almost starts, then move the choke to halfway. Hold throttle open and pull cord until it runs. Re-choking may be necessary if it stalls out. Once it has warmed up for 30 seconds or so, then open the choke. For warm starts, you may just need to choke it during one or two pulls to get it going.

2-strokes....especially cheaper ones, are quite often cold-natured and require several pulls to get them going. Especially if the carb isn't quite up to par.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

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11-03-02, 11:32 AM   #14  
Joe_F
Cheese:

This thing has been difficult to start and I believe I do not have spark. I smell fuel when pulling it, so I don't think this is the case.

What are the likely causes of no spark on this?

I have checked the kill switch thus far and it shows open in the normal position and continuity when you click it (that's correct, it's how you kill the engine.

Taking the switch out and checking the wires going to it with a meter, I get continuity.

Any ideas?

 
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11-05-02, 12:17 AM   #15  
Hi Joe!

It's not uncommon for a Mac coil to go bad. It will show continuity to ground on both sides of the switch connectors though, even when good. I know it doesn't make sense...until you get into the way the armature works. The kill wire will show continuity to ground even when disconnected though. If you disconnected the kill wire from the coil, and still have no spark with a tester or known-good plug, then the coil is shot. Unless you can find a good used one, it probably isn't worth the $$ to replace it. Have you checked for spark yet?

If the plug is gassed, it won't fire, and if your carb needle is leaking, it will gas a plug quickly. A flooded 2stroke can be hard to start. Especially if the whole crankcase gets filled.


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11-05-02, 04:06 AM   #16  
Fisher
Your'e not using the j19lm plugs are you? you need to switch
back to what was in it, the original was a tapered port plug,
the j19 has a gasket.
After reading all of the posts, I think you should remove the
muffler and look at the piston and rings next. As far as getting
parts, the junkpile is your best option.
Fish

 
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11-05-02, 09:12 AM   #17  
Joe_F
Cheese:

Thanks for the advice. Let me digest it and see what I have.

I used a spark plug tester (gapped for HEI GM) that I had and I didn't see squat. I cannot for the life of me see spark on it.

Smells like plenty of fuel is getting there, but not excessive.

Fish: I believe J19LM is too large of a thread for it and won't fit. I want to say it's a D8J8 or some similar Champion #. I looked up the Champ # in my master catalog here at work and went to the store to get that one. I got the one suited for small engines and right on the package it said it replaced the # that Champ calls out for this unit. In short, I'm using the correct # as Champ shows for it. It's much smaller than a J19LM.

J19LM is typical for 4 cycle Tecumseh and Briggs engines (such as my AYP/Craftsman lawnmower).

I was wondering if perhaps there was something grounding out the coil.

The flywheel is held on by one nut. Is there merit to taking it off and having a look around in there?

It runs fine when it starts !!!

 
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11-05-02, 11:16 PM   #18  
Ok...the HEI spark tester may be a bit much for this little mac. GM HEI is like 60,000 volts, right? Try a plug that is good to check for spark. If it runs at all, I doubt that you have coil problems, although possible. When the coil goes, that's usually the end of story, no more spark. There's no point in removing the flywheel to look under it, as there is nothing there. This thing has solid state ignition. The only thing that could affect ignition that could be seen by removing the flywheel is the flywheel key. It's not common for that to break on these units though, and if it does, it usually wipes out the flywheel with it.

I'm thinking that it may be either flooded, or an exhaust restriction like fish mentioned. If you can smell the gas, it probably has too much.


"Who is John Galt?" - Ayn Rand (Atlas Shrugged)

God bless!

 
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11-06-02, 02:35 AM   #19  
Fisher
I would leave the flywheel alone, But taking off the muffler
you can see the condition of the piston, and also see if
the exhaust port and muffler is not blocked up by carbon or
wasp nests. That would flood the engine and foul out a new plug
Fish

 
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11-07-02, 03:57 PM   #20  
Joe_F
Such is true. I thought I read that it was also suited for general spark checking, but I'll whip out another J19LM and plug it into the wire to see what's going on.

I thought that perhaps the kill switch could somehow be grounding out the coil...hence my thought pattern that way.

I'll do as "Fish" suggested and look at the exhaust side of things. I'll also try a fresh oil and gas mix and see if that helps.

It did run two weeks ago, but took a while to turn over (many pulls).

Subsequently, I stopped it and pulled the cord and it started up in a few tries.

It's hard to see if you have spark with this. The dang lead is too short and I don't fancy holding juice when I'm cranking things. LOL.

I'll report back with what I find. I have had the side cover off and it looked very clean in there (the cylinder)

 
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11-17-02, 06:38 PM   #21  
Joe_F
Cheese and Fish:

I plugged a new J19LM into the wire as a test and pulled the rope at night so I would see the spark if any. Squat .

I was concerned that the coil might be getting grounded out by the kill switch, but it seems like the coil to me.

Any ideas on the price of the coil and where to get it? McCulloch is about as easy to deal with as getting labotomy. I'll check on my small engine dealer in town, but he's expensive .

Thanks .

 
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11-17-02, 08:35 PM   #22  
Joe...I don't know which coil you have, but it is probably safe to guess that it will run $30.00 or more new. You would be better off finding a used one. Some Macs used the same coils on different pieces of equipment, so check old string trimmers for the same coil. It seems like Mac coils are more likely to go bad than any other manufacturer. Check the kill wire when you get it far enough apart just to be sure it isn't chafing somewhere.

As far as finding a replacement, I don't know where to send you. Mac is hard to find/get parts for right now. There is a large small engine parts distributor in my area who I get most of my parts through. They surely have a coil and could send it to you if you can't find one locally. Let me know, and I'll get a price for you, or give you their number.


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11-18-02, 01:12 AM   #23  
Fisher
Disconnect the "kill" wire at the coil then retest for spark.
The j19lm plug threads will fit in the hole, but most
McCullochs use a smaller tapered plug like the dj8j, they do
not have a gasket like the j19lm.
Fish

 
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11-19-02, 09:40 AM   #24  
Joe_F
"Fish":

Let me clarify. I only used the J19LM for spark testing (the DJ8J was in the cylinder at the time of the test.

I got squat as far as spark, so I know that I've got an ignition problem.

I'll try your suggestion of "bypassing" the kill switch at the coil. I'd hate to buy a coil only to find out that the kill switch is gazorching the works.

Cheese: Thank you and I'll let you know. Back burner project for me, as I have an electric blower, this Mac was a freebie.

 
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11-29-02, 09:09 AM   #25  
Joe_F
Fish & Cheese:

Do either of you guys have the Part # for the coil I would need? I'll start looking for it to see what I can find. The model and serial #s are listed above in the top of the post if that helps you out.

Thanks a million and Happy Holidays! Hopefully I can return the favor one day!!!

 
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12-01-02, 01:00 AM   #26  
Joe...I don't have a book here for that, but I'll check into it the beginning of the week and let you know.


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12-03-02, 10:08 AM   #27  
Joe_F
Thanks Cheese, I appreciate it

 
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12-04-02, 11:28 PM   #28  
Sorry Joe...been pretty busy the past few days. I'll try to have the #s for you when I log back in here thurs evening.


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12-05-02, 06:44 AM   #29  
Joe_F
No problem Cheese.

We are getting 10" of snow here in NYC today, so the blower is not a priority.

I'm glad I have the Toro power shovels ready to go---including one I recycled that a neighbor threw out. All I did was grease the gearcase and fix the handle--works like new .

 
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12-05-02, 10:29 AM   #30  
I would call that a good deal! lol. Some people just throw perfectly good stuff away, not realizing that the problem is often a simple adjustment or cleaning. I've had several things given to me that just needed a carb cleaning or pull rope.

The # for your coil is 302138.

Hope that helps!


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12-06-02, 05:25 AM   #31  
Joe_F
Thanks Cheese and I'll let you know.

Yes, I used the recycled Toro last night along with my neighbor's 5 HP/22" Craftsman blower and it made fast work out of the snow. It's like I have my own machine in a way---I can use it any time.

I know what I'm treating myself to after the end of the season !

 
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12-06-02, 07:32 AM   #32  
mikejmerritt
Joe, I have several Mac tools for parts including what I think is the baby brother to your blower. "94-"95 info shows them to have the same CI engine and I 'll bet the coils will interchange. If one of these coils will work for you I will give it to you if you will pay the shipping which will be less than $5.00. If you have a digital camera send me a pic of the coil looking down on the flywheel. I doubt we would be lucky enough for part numbers to be on the coils. If you get a pic send it to [email protected] Have a great day.....Mike

 
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12-06-02, 09:10 AM   #33  
Joe_F
Mike:

Thanks a lot! I will get you a picture of it as soon as I can get it apart. I would gladly pay the shipping costs if it is indeed the problem. Yes, I have a digital camera.

I greatly appreciate your help, as well as everyone elses.

I still have to try the suggestion of disconnecting the kill switch at the coil and seeing if I have spark or not.

I might have you send the coil to me anyhow Mike. It probably will go bad on me again!!! I might have you send 2 if you can. LOL .

How do you get to the coil and where is it? I have had the blower almost apart but not down to the engine internals. Anyone have an exploded diagram of this thing (Or something similar) by chance? MAC is hard to deal with.


BTW: I was able to help "Smokey" (who was a former moderator on this site) with an obsolete part for his 1990 Mark VII yesterday, so I feel good about that! The part he was looking for was no longer available from Ford, but I had one and just sent it off to him at no charge.

I'm a true believer of reciprocity for each other....


Last edited by Joe_F; 12-06-02 at 09:56 AM.
 
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12-06-02, 09:55 PM   #34  
The coil is at the flywheel....This engine is a 32cc according to model#, so the flywheel and coil should be behind the starter mechanism. This coil should interchange with most Mac 32cc string trimmers also.


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12-07-02, 02:30 PM   #35  
Joe_F
Thanks Cheese, I'll see if I can get into it soon.

Mike: Per chance, do you you have a bag and vac accessories in your scrap pile? What would you want for those? If I get it running, I might consider getting the vac portion running too.

Thanks all!

 
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12-07-02, 05:02 PM   #36  
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I sure don't have a bag setup for the Mac. The blower I have doesn't vacuum. I'll be looking as I go for one.....Mike

 
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12-07-02, 10:25 PM   #37  
Joe_F
Thanks Mike.

I will dismantle the unit and get you some photos. Give me a little time.

Greatly appreciate it.

Thanks,

 
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12-14-02, 02:34 PM   #38  
Joe_F
Mike (and Guys):

I tried to shoot a photo of this thing, but it's not coming out clear.

Here are the #s off the unit:

219848-01 60729

McCulloch. I will send you a photo, but it's not that clear---not sure if it will help.

Happy Holidays to all of you and thanks again for your time, patience and effort here.

I will have some questions upon reassembly, so I'll shoot them when I get to that point.

Thanks!

 
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12-14-02, 11:40 PM   #39  
Merry Christmas to you too, Joe. And to everyone!


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12-17-02, 08:07 PM   #40  
Joe_F
Thanks Cheese.

Mike's on this one for me. I'll keep everyone abreast of the situation here. It's apart on the work bench now.

It's a decent amount of work to take it apart as it is down to just the engine now. I have bagged and labelled all the bolts for reassembly.

Happy Holidays everyone and thanks!

 
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