Spray Painting tips

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-24-02, 09:11 AM
BruceReagan
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Spray Painting tips

I am planning to re-paint the exterior of my cedar shingle home. I am planning to rent or borrow spray equipment. I've never spray painted a house before. I can find lots of tips on how to paint a house by brush, but none for spray painting. Any suggestions?
 
  #2  
Old 09-25-02, 05:09 AM
mikejmerritt
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey BruceReagan, I really should write up something decent on spraying and save it so I could pass it on to you in moments but once again all I have time to do is throw some scattered thoughts at you. For that I apologize.
I would say the #1 thing to get the hang of would be viscosity. That is how thin you get the paint before spraying. Latex material is almost impossible to spray straight out of the bucket. Oil is the same way but to a lesser extent. If you rent a rig it may come with some general directions and the paint label will also have some. These are general but a good place to start. Viscosity for a given project will vary and nothing but time at it will give you the feel for how well things are going. One thing that makes painting of any kind hard in the beginning is unlike installing wood, brick, floorcovering etc. you are applieing a liquid that turns to a solid. In short thin until the paint is truly fogging out of the tip rather than spitting. Pros can walk up to a barrel of paint turn on a water hose and run water in while stirring and it get right the first time most often. Thats that time thing I was talking about. What you need to do is thin 15-20% and practice on something. Add water/thinner until you are spraying a nice even coat that covers or almost covers without running. At this point you are ready to hear my second most important thought. PRACTICE!!!!!! This can be expensive if you have to use your new house paint but trust me its worth a gallon or less. Perhaps you have an out building or fence or something less important than your home to start out on. Doghouses are perfect. Try friends for left over paint or paint store mis-tints if you want to stay out of the new paint. Sears mis-tints are just a few dollars a gallon.
Third thought is straining. Get a nylon strainer (about $2.50) that fits a five gallon bucket and after thinning pour paint into the five with the strainer, stir once more, remove the strainer and go to work. This does two very important things. It removes any tiny bits of matter that will clog your tip and mixes your paint together so its all one color. Strain your paint everyday or every time you mix in new paint. That mixing is not so important for white or when first coating but colors and final finish is a must. One last thing before I go make someones house a home today is spray in light layers. If using latex it goes on and dries so fast that there is no reason to risk runs and sags attempting to cover in a coat. If going the same color one pass may do it but I would still go two very light coats.....Mike
 
  #3  
Old 09-25-02, 06:20 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 195
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
another question on spraying.

I started appling primer on my interior wall today using an wagner airless. The paint I was using was a latex. I was having problem with tip blockage. what was the reason.

paint not thin right?

wrong tip?

pressure too high?


please advised i need to finish tomorrow.
 
  #4  
Old 09-25-02, 11:41 PM
mikejmerritt
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hey brownbagg, if you are getting a blockage it has to be debris in the paint. Read back over my reply above. Follow those directions and if its not working out there is a problem with the sprayer in that there must be something in the cup that is getting in the paint. For spraying one must keep the paint very clean. The paint drieing around the top of the cup as the day goes by can be the source of the debris. To cure this you may have to wash the sprayer clean every couple of hours. Have you strained the paint? I'll check back here very early in the morning for a reply from you if you have any questions. After 8:00 AM central time I'm out of here.....Mike
 
  #5  
Old 09-26-02, 07:33 AM
B
Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 195
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Its not a cup stlye but the one that you put the hose in the bucket. I,m running out of a five gallon bucket. does it still need straining. what about my pressure if I run high pressue will it clog the tip. i like that 517 tip because I,m spraying ceiling. Will it be correct. What if I thin the hell out of it. I know it will make it runny but basically I,m running as out of bucket.
 
  #6  
Old 09-26-02, 09:28 AM
rc101
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
There's a product called Floetrol that you can add to latex that can help to reduce tip clogging. I also use it to help eliminate brush strokes when cutting in around doors and windows.

rc
 
  #7  
Old 09-26-02, 09:04 PM
mikejmerritt
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
brownbagg, straining of paint is a must if you are spraying and it doesn't matter with what type of sprayer. No need to over thin. Just get it right and if the material is clean it will flow. Floetrol is fine material and as rc101 says will cause latex paint flow smoothly and self level to some degree......Mike
 
  #8  
Old 09-29-02, 06:51 PM
B
Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 195
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
after I strain the paint, thin alittle, just a little and found out how to use the reverable tip I had no problem.

elsewhere they talk that rolling was the only way. So I sprayed the base( primer) and rolled the first coat. 6 hours it got dark so I pulled the sprayer out and sprayed the second coat, whole house 45 minute including ceiling. This morning it was perfect. i will never roll again, yes I used some extra paint but it was so much quicker and easlier it was worth the extra paint.


remember no trim is up, no doors, no floor covers , everything same color. i did paint one window though.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: