Polyurethane has created water-marks

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  #1  
Old 11-25-02, 01:13 PM
blanch_69
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Polyurethane has created water-marks

I've just finished painting the floor in our sun room and applied the first coat of polyurethane. When it dried it left what looks like water marks. Disaster after hours of time and money invested.

Over the past two weeks we have primed and painted the floor with latex-based paint. The main area of the floor is aubergine with 3 large metallic copper squares. Sounds odd but looks amazing. After all of this we had finally finished the painting and were very proud of the stunning looking floor. Everything was perfect. So all we needed to do is seal it for all eternity with a non-yellowing water-based polyurethane. We applied it with a padded brush (see picture), but it dried with horrible water marks which showed up over the aubergine paint.

What have we done wrong? Have we used the wrong applicator? The wrong polyurethane? Or is it just normal and when a second coat is applied, it will be okay (please!)? If it is messed up, how do we correct it without resanding & repainting all over again?

Andy
 
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  #2  
Old 11-25-02, 04:49 PM
helphandy
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floor

was the paint compatible with the aqua-poly?
certain manufacturers reccomend certain top coats..
what type of primer did you use ?(oil or latex)
was there a chance the floor was not cured prior to the topcoat?
what was the finish of the paint(flat,semi,gloss)?
 
  #3  
Old 11-26-02, 03:35 AM
edtree
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Hi Blanch,

You might try testing a small area with this method: rub lightly with fine sandpaper or steel wool, vacuum well, and recoat with the poly. From what you've described, you've done nothing wrong. It could be that the first coat of poly was simply applied too thick. If this method works, try thinning your next coat of poly by 25% before application.

P.S. don't rub too hard with the sandpaper or steel wool, you just want to even it out, not scrub through to the paint.

Elizabeth
 
  #4  
Old 11-26-02, 09:05 AM
blanch_69
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Re: floor

Originally posted by helphandy
was the paint compatible with the aqua-poly?
certain manufacturers reccomend certain top coats..
what type of primer did you use ?(oil or latex)
was there a chance the floor was not cured prior to the topcoat?
what was the finish of the paint(flat,semi,gloss)?
Tried to answer your questions as best I could. Any suggestions?

was the paint compatible with the aqua-poly?
I bought the paint at the same time and I asked them to recommend the best
poly stuff to put on top of it, they did and I did not read it to double
check.
certain manufacturers recommend certain top coats..
what type of primer did you use ?(oil or latex)
latex
was there a chance the floor was not cured prior to the topcoat?
cured meaning dry? in my opinion it was. I feel it was the use of the damp
applicator ( applicator instructions required rinsing with water before
use. i think this was contributory)
what was the finish of the paint(flat,semi,gloss)?
low lustre
 
  #5  
Old 11-26-02, 09:07 AM
blanch_69
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Originally posted by edtree
Hi Blanch,

You might try testing a small area with this method: rub lightly with fine sandpaper or steel wool, vacuum well, and recoat with the poly. From what you've described, you've done nothing wrong. It could be that the first coat of poly was simply applied too thick. If this method works, try thinning your next coat of poly by 25% before application.

P.S. don't rub too hard with the sandpaper or steel wool, you just want to even it out, not scrub through to the paint.

Elizabeth
Thanks for your suggestions - I'll try it.

when you suggested thinning the polyurethane - what should I thin it with?

A.
 
  #6  
Old 11-26-02, 03:14 PM
edtree
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Hello again,

I did a little research on water-based finishes since I posted to you this morning. (I use personally use the "oil-based" products). Your poly should be thinned with either what is recomended on the can, or if it doesn't specify, use distilled water. The recomended amount of thinning is 10 to 20 %.

Everything I read states, "put on as thin a coat as possible". Evidently, this cannot be overstated And, don't fuss with the finish once it's been applied.

Also, instead of steelwool, it was recomended that you use either 280 grit sandpaper (or finer) or a scotchbrite pad between finish coats.

I hope this helps a bit. A floor is a huge undertaking. I did my own last year - it took me, what seemed like, forever.

Good luck!

Elizabeth
 
  #7  
Old 11-26-02, 08:10 PM
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Correct - never use steel wool when applying a waterbase finish.
The tiny particles of steel will rust and leave marks that will ruin a floor finish or piece of furniture.
fred
 
  #8  
Old 02-04-03, 08:46 AM
blanch_69
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Finished at last

What an epic. Finally we're done and it looks great, so thanks to all of your comments and suggestions. I wouldn't have managed it without them.

We had a hell of a time with it though. After the first polyurethane coating went bad, we tried lightly sanding, but it pulled all the paint off. So basically we had to sand the whole floor down and repaint it.

Then we tried to put an oil based polyurethane down, but unwisely with a gloss finish. A short way into it I noticed that the floor looked like a basketball court and sp we stopped. And guess what. We had to sand it down again and repaint it. Disaster!!!

By this time I had received all your comments and spoken to a couple of manufacturers. So to anyone who tried this, here are 3 golden rules to be learned from my experience:

1) We waited 3 weeks for the painted floor to dry.
2) We thinned the polyurethane with 10% tap water.
3) We bought a synthetic applicator with a very smooth nap.

Shees. Who knew there was so much to watch out for when painting and coating a floor. The floor does look fantastic, but be prepared and do the reserach BEFOREHAND.

If anyone is interested, or curious to see what an egg-plant and copper painted floor looks like, I can load up some photo's of the finished article.

Thanks again to everyone.

A.
 
  #9  
Old 02-04-03, 12:49 PM
edtree
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Smile

Hello Blanch,

I'm so glad you posted back. It sounds like it has been rough going, but I'm happy for you that you are at the end and satisfied with your floor. If there's a way to do it, I'd love to see a pic or two of the finished product.

Elizabeth
 
  #10  
Old 02-04-03, 07:51 PM
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blanch_69.

Your second try in oil base gloss could have been saved. The first gloss coat could have been covered with subsequent coats of satin. Voila, gloss is gone.

But I'm glad the floor turned out the way you wanted!!

fred
 
  #11  
Old 02-08-03, 10:51 AM
blanch_69
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Photos of the finished article

Attached some photos - hope you can see them okay. The reflection doesn't let you see the full effect, but I am more than happy with the finished product - if not just a little relieved.

Thanks once again.

A.

------------------------

Tried uploading photos, but it didn't work, so I decided to set up and MSN group. Click on this link (or copy and paste it into your browser) and you should be able to see them. Let me know if you can't see them.

A.

http://groups.msn.com/DIYpaintedfloor/shoebox.msnw
 

Last edited by blanch_69; 02-08-03 at 11:37 AM.
  #12  
Old 02-10-03, 01:23 AM
edtree
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Thanks for putting the pictures up for us to see. Your floor looks so beautiful. I do love the design and the colors you chose

I think the things we work hardest at are the most appreciated. I'm sure you'll be appreciating your floor for years to come!

Elizabeth
 
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