Airless Sprayer Recommendations?

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Old 03-07-04, 06:30 PM
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Airless Sprayer Recommendations?

I'm considering buying an airless sprayer that is a step up from the diaphragm types. I have my eye on a SprayTech 2105 which is a 3/4 HP motor, piston pumper, 3000 psi, usable with tips up to .019 inch.

I had a bad experience with a CH diaphragm airless I bought in 1975 - after awhile it wouldn't maintain pressure and I was quoted almost $200 in parts to replace the worn parts.

With that in mind, is there anything I need to consider before buying the 2105?
 
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Old 03-07-04, 06:52 PM
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I have a spraytech model as well. Your getting a great unit with that model . Extremely nice
 
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Old 03-08-04, 03:32 PM
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I went with th Graco. I've painted side jobs and a few houses with it. Graco 's name is why I bought it, have used many of Graco products, and was always happy, I spent $140.
 
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Old 03-08-04, 04:24 PM
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Would a unit like this be suitable for interior trim?

I'm not totally pleased with my brush applied paints and oil based paints are going away in CA.
 
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Old 03-08-04, 05:35 PM
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YES. I used to use one of these when I was in the cainetry buis. Painting, and finishing. Make sure to clean thourough ly between paint and laquer. Good Luck.
 
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Old 03-08-04, 08:45 PM
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Perhaps you bought a small hand-held unit? $140-? For a Grayco?? I thought they ran from several hundred to a few thousand... I'm no painter and don't really know the market, so I just have to listen to salesmen's pitches, then get the real scoop here <G>.
 
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Old 03-09-04, 12:57 PM
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Get the SprayTech you wont be disappointed
 
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Old 03-09-04, 04:14 PM
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They have a wide variety of paint sprayer. Mine ain't not toy, lioke the little wagners.
 
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Old 03-09-04, 07:58 PM
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Yeah, that's what I thought! In addition to the Spraytech, I'm looking at the Grayco Ultra 395. .015 to .0121 tip @ 3300 psi, .45 gal/min, top-mounted filter and the slickest little stand I ever saw!

Pretty much the same specs as the Spraytech 2105 but $570 more!

For a savings of $570, I think I'll go with the Spraytech and buy a bunch of tarps and covers...
 
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Old 03-10-04, 09:43 AM
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So when you guys paint trim with the airless sprayers (casing, crown and base), I assume you mask off the walls leaving perhaps a quarter to half inch overlap onto the wall? Or is it even necessary to mask off when painting trim assuming of course you are doing the walls afterward?

Do you end up with a hard line/step in the paint which shows through the wall paint or is it feathered somehow?

Then come back and paint the walls masking off the trim exactly where you want your line?

Perhaps you could outline the steps to paint a room with a spayer. I don't see a huge advantage in painting the walls with a sprayer because a roller makes quick work of it but I would like flawless trim.

Thanks
 

Last edited by AlexH; 03-10-04 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 03-10-04, 02:03 PM
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Usually painted before install. But in these cases, it would be best to cut them in by hand.
 
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Old 03-17-04, 07:35 AM
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You have the freedom to do whatever you want sir, but I've been painting for 32 years, and I've had/do have/or have used about every airless/HVLP/CapSpray/conventional sprayer,ect. that has been on the market, and Graco is "hands down" the best. They have come along way since the EH333's, ect. in the spray market; but Graco is still the best. You will never be sorry for the extra few doolars you spend on a Graco. There are some other good sprayers that I would buy if Graco wasn't a choice for me, and I don't know what volume of material you want to shoot, and what your GPY total will be. I look at Graco much like I do Craftsman; yes I can get a budget set of sockets/ratchets,ect. from Kmart, but I know what the Craftman's are going to do for me, and how long they will do it trouble free. Good luck with whatever you choose. God bless.
John Sr.
 
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Old 03-18-04, 02:05 PM
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Thanks John,

I'm a homeowner that is considering purchasing an airless sprayer for 2 reasons -

1. I have to paint 13 doors (all removed) that were factory sprayed and I would like to duplicate the near flawless finish that they have now.

2, I have added quite a bit of trim to my house - crown, wide base, casing etc. and I can never get the perfect finish I see on new home construction with a brush. So I would like to spray some these items in the high visibility areas.

Is this something that a dedicated doityourselfer can master? Of course I can practice first and I do know the basics.

Also, when painting installed trim (before painting walls), do you mask off adjacent walls? I would think that you would actually not want to since the overspray will be covered with wall paint and if you mask there will probably be a noticeable thickness difference in the paint where the tape is removed.

Thanks!
 
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Old 03-18-04, 02:38 PM
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AlexH,
Personally speaking; if I were just a homeowner who wanted to paint just my own house; I know I wouldn't buy a sprayer just for that. Unless, of course; I just wanted one, and had the extra money. I was basically trying(in my above post) to give my experience with spray equipment, and what I thought was quality equipment. I have done just about every kind of painting there is, from industrial,commercial, and residential. What I see now is a trend to want to spray everything. Yes sprayers are meant for production, and they do a good job at it, but there are times when it's overkill to spray. About the only time I use a sprayer on the interior now; is when it's a new home. I will spray a previously occupied home now and then, but my first choice is to bid for a brush and roll job. As far as the doors you mentioned. I can use a brush, and make the doors look like they've been sprayed. It is the quality of paint that you use, the consistancy, and mixture of the paint, the brushes you use, and the painter him or her self. Don't get me wrong; you can spray the doors,walls,ect., and get a beautiful job also; it's just sometimes spraying is just not the only option. Nothing I've said has meant to sound like a know it all; it's just that I have indeed been doing this for over 30 years now, and I've seen the quality take an incredible nose dive. 1 of the reasons is people trying to rush through their work; more interested in the bottom line, than the finish product. As far as the masking goes. I wouldn't tape either. The feathered out fan of the overspray will be hidden when you coat the walls. Good luck, and if I can be of any assistance; please let me know. God bless.
John Sr.
 
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Old 03-18-04, 02:55 PM
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I use Benjamin Moore Latex semi gloss and if I thin it with Floetrol I can sometimes eliminate the brush marks but it still does not reflect light evenly like a spray job. I actually bought a gallon of alkyd from BM but I haven't tried it yet. Perhaps I'll give the alkyd a try first but I better get it all done this year because oil paints are being phased out in CA.

By the way, I would never spray the walls - rollers make quick work of it.
 
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Old 03-18-04, 03:30 PM
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Johntheson has said a mouthful, and every bit of it is true.

2 thumbs up!
 
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Old 03-18-04, 03:47 PM
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Thank you for the thumbs up prowallguy. I've been reading your responses since I started here, and it's obvious that the folks don't need my advice with you here helping them; I just wanted to join in also. AlexH. when I spoke about getting a spray job look from a brush job; I was indeed refering to oil base paint. You can get a finish that looks like a piece of gloss plastic. I live in Virginia and they're more tolerant on enviromental chemicals. If California is totally phasing oul oil base paint; I wouldn't want to have one of the houses that's been built, and maintained with oil base. I know they claim to have some decent transition materials; but I find it hard to believe. All I know is; latex over oil YIKES! I'm glad I'm not faced with that delimma. God bless.
John Sr.
 
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Old 03-18-04, 04:03 PM
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it's obvious that the folks don't need my advice with you here helping them; I just wanted to join in also.
Please feel free, I'm busy as a one-armed paperhanger ( ) this time of year.
when I spoke about getting a spray job look from a brush job; I was indeed refering to oil base paint. You can get a finish that looks like a piece of gloss plastic.
I agree. Although I've had real good results with SW Classic 99 Satin, it leveled beautifully. But for a true oil-looking job with latex, I use Ben. Moore's Waterbourne Satin Impervo. I had doubts at first, but now I'm nothing but impressed with this product.
All I know is; latex over oil YIKES!
I heard that, loud and clear!
 
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Old 03-18-04, 05:36 PM
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prowallguy,
I like the SW Classic 99 myself. I actually use Sherwin Williams as my first choice 95% of the time, unless the customer specs a different brand. I get my best prices there, and it's good material too. As for Ben. Moore products; they are, and always have been excellent paints,stains,ect. I almost consider them boutique paints because of their prices. You probably can't buy a better bucket than BM though.
John Sr.
 
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Old 03-18-04, 08:08 PM
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I'd like to use BW for the interior, but the nearest dealer is 90 miles away. That leaves Diamond Vogel, SW, and Kwal, and Kwal is plain lousy paint (in my opinion anyway).

So before I plunk down my hard-earned dollars on white interior latex (which I will spray with my brand new Grayco Ultra 395), I would welcome any comments, good or bad, on DV vs. SW for inside jobs.
 
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Old 03-18-04, 09:08 PM
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I'm not familiar with Diamond Vogel, but for Sherwin Williams, their new Cashmere paint is awesome. I've never sprayed it, but I know it rolls on like butter and looks great. You might consider spraying it and backrolling for a superior finish. (This is for the walls by the way)

I was to attempt to spray some of the SW Pro Classic Semi-gloss last year on some trim, and I failed miserably. It was too thick, the rep told me I shouldn't thin it with water. So I asked how to get it through a sprayer, and nobody could tell me, no advice on spray tips, thinning, nada. My biggest beef with SW, here in St. Louis, their counter help is pathetic. Fortunately I cried loud enough as to how much $$$ I spend there every year, and I finally got a rep that actually calls me back!
 
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Old 03-19-04, 07:20 AM
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prowallguy
I have only talked to one person about the Cashmere, and he said it was;and I quote "awesome". The SW store that I deal with has some really knowledgable people working there. It goes without saying though; I've never went to ant paint store that can speak about the actual characteristics of paint/stain/ect.; the way someone like you or I can. We work with the stuff every day. We come behind ourselves, and others too. The warm weather is almost here now, so I'm going to get the pressure washer out for the season. I didn't use any fuel stabilizer this year so I hope I don't have any hassle with it. You know; I've always used a Simpson, or a Wisconsin Robin, but I just bought a new one, and I got it a Home Depot. I got the 3600PSI made by DeVilbiss. I love it. The others I bought cost close to $3000.00 dollars. This one was a grand, and it is definately a commercial rig.

Pipsisiwah,
Like PWG; I'm not familiar with the DV so I can't help with a comparison there. I do like SW myself. They have their good materials, and the "not as good as others" materials also. As a rule though; I've had success with SW. I'll tell you both what is comical to me though; is when you see the "25" or even "40" year garrantee on the caulking tubes or the paint buckets. Some customers actually believe they are getting that level of materials. Oh well........


God bless you guys. Have a great weekend!
John Sr.
 
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Old 03-19-04, 12:24 PM
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Diamond Vogel has some good product. They are a regional company with the main office in Iowa. The permacryl is really good paint. The area where they lack is in exterior latex stains. These dont match up to Cabot or Woodscapes SW. Their top end latex products arent cheap. I use the architectural line as an option for customers. The industrial line products are exceptional.
 
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Old 03-22-04, 11:37 AM
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Hey guys,

I just painted a door using BM waterbourne Impervo with a brush, and I dare say it looks better than the original factory spray job! This is great stuff and this is coming from a guy who doesn't have very good brush technique.

No brush marks whatsoever, fairly long working time and you can apply it fairly thin. I had a few start and stop marks in the beginning when I applied it to thick and even they almost disappeared as it dried.

I don't see any reason not to use it across the board on trim.
 
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Old 03-22-04, 02:18 PM
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Told you so
 
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Old 03-27-04, 06:58 PM
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Well, I thank all youse guys for your thoughts. I didn't have very good luck with SW A-100 exterior oil. Used it 7 or 8 years ago and it wouldn't level very well. 5 or 6 years ago I used their SuperPaint Ext Latex on the house and so far so good. Zinsser prime coat plus 2 SP, all brushed on.

Don't know what's going on with the SW Cashmere being too thick to spray. I'll check out what they say at the local SW store here.

One of you mentioned Diamond Vogel "industrial" paint - I assume that's for use on stuff like fire hydrants, piping, tanks, and not for home use?? At least that's what I gathered from the DV website. What do they call their industrial paint anyway?

As I mentioned before, I'd use Sears Easy Living but it's a 250-mile drive to Denver from here, so that's out. The nearest BM store is 60 miles south, maybe I'll just bite the bullet, go for a ride and pick up a 5-gallon bucket of the stuff.

Decisions, decisions, decisions.
 
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Old 03-27-04, 07:08 PM
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Diamond Vogel, carries all sorts of products, industrial, home, and even stains and finishes. Good Luck with your project.
 
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