Airless paint gun with automotive paint?

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  #1  
Old 12-02-04, 05:40 PM
ultimax
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Airless paint gun with automotive paint?

Hi,

I want to give my motorcycle a new coat of paint. I was thinking of using an airless spray gun. What do you guys think? I'm looking for a decent finish (gloss + laquer/hardener), doesn't matter if it's not quite "showroom" standard.

An airless paint gun over here costs about 1/3 the price of the cheapest HVLP spray system I can find.

Thanks!

Shu
 
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  #2  
Old 12-02-04, 06:14 PM
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You may not be happy with the finish you get with an airless and auto paint because of the coarseness of the spray.

An hvlp gun would be my first choice and a syphon gun second.

You might have good luck using acrylic enamel with the activator on top of epoxy primer. Acrylic gives a really high gloss and is quite durable.
 
  #3  
Old 12-02-04, 06:43 PM
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Don't do it
It won't even get you a "backroom" standard finish
 
  #4  
Old 12-02-04, 09:20 PM
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hmm ok guys I have my doubts now. Come to think of it, the guy who suggested I use the airless spray gun said he used it to good effect to apply matt colours. So maybe that's why the courseness of the spray did not matter to him.

I suppose I should invest in the small HVLP.....

I've never used a HVLP system before though. The only spray system I've used before is the can ahha. So any tips? How far away should I hold the nozzle from the surface?

thanks!
 

Last edited by ultimax; 12-02-04 at 09:31 PM.
  #5  
Old 12-03-04, 04:32 AM
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If this isn't something you will be using much, you might want to consider renting the set-up. Rental places usually have name brand, heavy duty equipment. Good luck.
 
  #6  
Old 12-03-04, 07:34 AM
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For what you are spraying this may do the trick. You will need a small tip so ask what size it comes with and if there are any other sizes like 1mm or so. If you buy it add something inexpensive to get over $50.00 for free shipping.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91772

You didn't say where "over here " is. If you are in like China or somewhere like that you are in luck. You can cut out the middle man.he he
 
  #7  
Old 12-03-04, 07:54 AM
ultimax
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Originally Posted by majakdragon
If this isn't something you will be using much, you might want to consider renting the set-up. Rental places usually have name brand, heavy duty equipment. Good luck.
I wish I could but such services are not offered here. Most shops would rather me have them do the job so that they can earn more $.

 
  #8  
Old 12-03-04, 07:56 AM
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Where is over here????????. What country!!!!!!
 
  #9  
Old 12-03-04, 07:56 AM
ultimax
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Originally Posted by joneq
For what you are spraying this may do the trick. You will need a small tip so ask what size it comes with and if there are any other sizes like 1mm or so. If you buy it add something inexpensive to get over $50.00 for free shipping.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91772

You didn't say where "over here " is. If you are in like China or somewhere like that you are in luck. You can cut out the middle man.he he
this is precisely what I'm looking for! I actually bought a system much like this one today (doesn't look as nice though), but it doesn't work. I'm gonna take it back to the shop tomorrow and get a refund.

I live in Singapore actually. And no, Singapore's not in China haha! I get that pretty often.

If the set doesn't cost more than US$80 with shipping, it'll still be cheaper than the piece-o-sh** I got from the store today! I guess i'll email them and ask.
 
  #10  
Old 12-03-04, 08:03 AM
ultimax
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BTW, how do the electric airless and HVLP systems differ? I know one uses a pump and the other compressed air, but why does one give a "rougher" coat than the other?
 
  #11  
Old 12-03-04, 08:20 AM
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I don't know what you bought but to spray automotive coatings you don't need too much air. This should give you enough. Let me clarify before I get bombarded. This unit[in my opinion] will spray that coating the poster want to spray and will produce a good finish. Will it give a professional grade finish I dont know but it could,with a little sanding between coats which may not be necessary at all. As far as the differences between the two kinds of sprayers The hvlp atomizes the paint into much smaller particles. The hand held electric is best for latex and oil based paint. The internet is filled with the differences look around. They sell one in the Depot[cambell hausfeld] if you have one there for around $100. Don't forget to make sure that you get a small tip if possible talk to some one who knows when you buy it.

Professional paint stores also sell a can of compressed air with a jar attached[NOT PREVAIL] that may be helpful to you also. Fill the jar with some paint and go for it it is less than $10.00 here. Don't know much more about it.
 
  #12  
Old 12-03-04, 11:13 AM
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ultimax,

The one thing that I don't think has been mentioned is that no matter which spray unit you get, there will be a pretty steep learning curve to be able to achieve an even mediocre finish.

One thing you could consider is purchasing a mid range import syphon gun and try painting something unimportant with cheaper paint.
I have a DeVilbiss JGA syphon gun that I blew a wad on, only to find that a sign painter friend bought an exact copy that he gets good results with, for about a third of what I paid for my JGA.

There are a few inexpensive rust paints you can use for practice, that if sprayed properly, can gloss up as good as some acrylics.
Ask around with folks that make trailers and they usually will have found a decent paint at a pretty good price.
I use Sico brand rust paint and the finish looks as good as an inexpensive auto paint. Won't last as long, but it's near a quarter the price.

Hey, trick out a swing set or some garbage cans to get practice.
 
  #13  
Old 12-03-04, 12:31 PM
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It is really pretty easy to get good results pretty fast. Getting the paint to the right consistencyis important, but this kind of paint is pretty easy to paint with. Kind of like a spray can only easier[in my opinion]. It is not rocket science and with a little practice great results come quickly. Let me be clear once again. I am not saying open up the box, pour in the paint, and go.I give ultimax some credit. I feel he will do a good job and not jump in without a little practice on a piece of cardboard or something.

I purchased my first hvlp sprayer and refinished a bathtub with great results without ever doing anything other than spraying some patterns on the masking on the wall. Put it on light and you can always put on more later.
 
  #14  
Old 12-03-04, 05:48 PM
ultimax
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hi greg,

thanks for your concern. it's well-founded - I've never done anything major like this before.

I'll prob practice on the gate first. it's pretty banged up now and needs a coat of paint. It has a large surface area so that'll give me plenty of practice!

I can use any paint with a HVLP system right? As long as it's mixed right ... ?

Originally Posted by GregH
ultimax,

The one thing that I don't think has been mentioned is that no matter which spray unit you get, there will be a pretty steep learning curve to be able to achieve an even mediocre finish.

One thing you could consider is purchasing a mid range import syphon gun and try painting something unimportant with cheaper paint.
I have a DeVilbiss JGA syphon gun that I blew a wad on, only to find that a sign painter friend bought an exact copy that he gets good results with, for about a third of what I paid for my JGA.

There are a few inexpensive rust paints you can use for practice, that if sprayed properly, can gloss up as good as some acrylics.
Ask around with folks that make trailers and they usually will have found a decent paint at a pretty good price.
I use Sico brand rust paint and the finish looks as good as an inexpensive auto paint. Won't last as long, but it's near a quarter the price.

Hey, trick out a swing set or some garbage cans to get practice.
 
  #15  
Old 12-03-04, 05:50 PM
ultimax
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thanks joneq!

yeah my bike's important to me and while I'm not hoping for a professional finish, I certainly don't want any runs or lumps. And yeah you're right abt applying thin coats. less is certainly more in this case. As you said, I can always add more coats later on.

Originally Posted by joneq
It is really pretty easy to get good results pretty fast. Getting the paint to the right consistencyis important, but this kind of paint is pretty easy to paint with. Kind of like a spray can only easier[in my opinion]. It is not rocket science and with a little practice great results come quickly. Let me be clear once again. I am not saying open up the box, pour in the paint, and go.I give ultimax some credit. I feel he will do a good job and not jump in without a little practice on a piece of cardboard or something.

I purchased my first hvlp sprayer and refinished a bathtub with great results without ever doing anything other than spraying some patterns on the masking on the wall. Put it on light and you can always put on more later.
 
  #16  
Old 12-03-04, 06:28 PM
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one last thing. Most guns have a vertical fan setting and a horizontal fan setting for the spray pattern. Then the good ones have a round pattern which comes in handy for painting small things like bike frames. Use the fan for the tank and the round for the frame. Give the inside corners a shot before you paint the rest of the area to avoid runs. To get the round, loosen the ring and turn the cap[where the air comes out] to half way vertical and half way horizontal or like 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock adjust slightly until it sprays nice. That is in case there is no automatic setting for round spray pattern
 
  #17  
Old 12-03-04, 06:33 PM
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How enamel auto finishes are generally applied:

I have limited experience with HVLP and laquer and base/clear paints but the enamels require a certain technique to get a shine.

When applying the first coat it must be light to medium in thickness and must "set up" before the second and subsequent coats.
Setting up means that it will not stick to a finger if lightly touched but not so much that too much solvent evaporates.
If you don't wait long enough the second coat will more easily run and if too long the second coat may react with the first and it will bubble.

The second coat can be applied to a medium thickness and the final coat which is the trickiest, is where you get your gloss.
You need a medium wet coat where there is enough thickness that the solvents can float to the surface and evenly coat it.
The shine comes from the smooth wet surface.
The part that must be learned its how thick to make each coat.
Too much paint and the surface will run and not enough and the gloss won't be even.

Practice, practice, practice.

Edit:
I forgot to mention that if you are going to be using auto finishes, when you purchase the thinner you will have to select between ones that allow for different painting temperatures.
Fast, medium or slow dry thinners will allow you to time the coats in whatever shop temperature you are painting in.
 

Last edited by GregH; 12-03-04 at 07:40 PM.
  #18  
Old 12-03-04, 06:53 PM
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That's why they invented cardboard. Although in this case I might use an old storm window or a piece of some non-porous material to get the right settings. Good point though. I think the laquer[see initial post] will melt into any previous coat. I may be wrong though. Don't use it much. I'll let ultimax figure it out. I know he can. I always find out about the paint i am using before I spray with it. Before I did the tub I spoke of above I found out about the paint and the wait times. I gotta figure anyone would do that.
 
  #19  
Old 12-03-04, 08:59 PM
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thanks for all your advice! I'll certainly spray other stuff first before my bike. maybe the fence in addition to the gate haha.

BTW, can I use paint straight out of the can or do I have to thin it first? If so, how do I determine the paint to thinner ratio?

Also, for my purposes, should I just forget abt the wide-spray nozzle and just stick with the 1.5mm nozzle? I find that spray is finer with the 1.5mm nozzle, and that the wide-spray nozzle produces a mixture of mist and droplets of water. But that is with water, and not paint.
 

Last edited by ultimax; 12-04-04 at 01:16 AM.
  #20  
Old 12-04-04, 05:30 AM
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use the tip that produces the best results for you,and the paint will have some directions as far as thinning goes,it has to be the right viscosity to produce the best finish.Get the paint and the gun and read over the material do your test spraying and if you have a prob get back. lot's of questions can be answered by you when you get the stuff you need.and after you do some test spraying.
 
  #21  
Old 12-04-04, 06:03 AM
ultimax
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Originally Posted by joneq
use the tip that produces the best results for you,and the paint will have some directions as far as thinning goes,it has to be the right viscosity to produce the best finish.Get the paint and the gun and read over the material do your test spraying and if you have a prob get back. lot's of questions can be answered by you when you get the stuff you need.and after you do some test spraying.
ok thanks joneq

BTW, it's ok to leave the gun standing with paint in it. Say in between coats, while you're waiting? Or does something to be done first?
 
  #22  
Old 12-05-04, 01:26 AM
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Hi,

I tested the spray gun with some water-based wall paint and in a word, IT SUCKED! The paint didn't spray on - it splattered on. I had noticed this with water but I thought maybe water came out of the gun that way.

What's wrong? Is the paint mixture too thick/thin? Or do I just have a lousy gun?
 
  #23  
Old 12-05-04, 05:19 AM
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I re-read the thread twice
Sorry if I'm missing it but which gun/tip are you using?
Some tips/types work better for different paints
Also if you are using water based paint I could recomended an airless
They can work well for small latex jobs
 
  #24  
Old 12-05-04, 05:32 AM
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Hi Slickshift,

ok it's a cheap HVLP system. Bleeder-type gun. I guess it's the "internal mix" kind.The kit came with a small compressor which has no tank.

I used a 1.5mm circular hole tip. It's just a brass nozzle with a hole. When tested with a water-based paint, the consistency of water, it pretty much splattered it. Coverage was poor, and the droplets of paint were big.

Should I test it with some other paint? Like maybe a cheap enamel paint?

thanks!
 
  #25  
Old 12-05-04, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimax

Should I test it with some other paint? Like maybe a cheap enamel paint?
Yes, I would, if it's not too much hassle
 
  #26  
Old 12-05-04, 05:45 AM
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I want to give my motorcycle a new coat of paint. I was thinking of using an airless spray gun. What do you guys think? I'm looking for a decent finish (gloss + laquer/hardener), doesn't matter if it's not quite "showroom" standard.

What does that quote have to do with latex paint Maybe I gave you too much credit. If you want to spray latex DON"T USE THE SMALL HVLP.I think that you should probably send the bike to a shop or use a spray can[pretty good paint]. These will be your best options.

By the way If you are talking about the unit I suggested you get did you ask the questions I told you to about tip sizes. There is hardly anything thinner that the lacquer paint you first posted about and it will spray from the unit with the proper tip. If you think that spraying latex through a gun gives you any idea of how it will spray with lacquer or even thinned down enamel[car enamel] you are nuts.


"For what you are spraying this may do the trick. You will need a small tip so ask what size it comes with and if there are any other sizes like 1mm or so. If you buy it add something inexpensive to get over $50.00 for free shipping"

Send it back and either rent a unit let somebody else do it or use a spry can
 
  #27  
Old 12-05-04, 06:12 AM
ultimax
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dude as I said earlier, I've never used a HVLP system before. People ahve to start somewhere. They'll ask stupid qns, make mistakes. That's how you learn. You can treat me like a fool, but you don't have to be mean abt it.

I was just trying various paints to see if the system I bought works well in the first place. It's a made-in-china setup which didn't even come with instructions. I chose to try it with water-based paint so that cleaning up wouldn't be a problem. It was also the only paint I had lying arnd. Auto-paint isn't cheap, and I wasn't gonna buy it until I knew I had a working HVLP system.

I don't know how a HVLP system is supposed to act. That's why I asked. Besides, I assume if the system can't even spray paint, regardless of type, properly in the first place, then maybe it isn't working properly? Maybe my assumption is wrong, that's why I posted my concerns here.

I appreciate all the advice you've given me so far, but I'm still new to all this. I will make dumb mistakes and ask stupid qns. I may not even know the basics well. I've searched the 'net for info on HVLP but I've yet to find anything for a beginner like me.

I thought forums like this were supposed to be for people to help each other out, but if you're gonna treat a beginner like this, then maybe I'm asking my qns at the wrong place.


Originally Posted by joneq
I want to give my motorcycle a new coat of paint. I was thinking of using an airless spray gun. What do you guys think? I'm looking for a decent finish (gloss + laquer/hardener), doesn't matter if it's not quite "showroom" standard.

What does that quote have to do with latex paint Maybe I gave you too much credit. If you want to spray latex DON"T USE THE SMALL HVLP.I think that you should probably send the bike to a shop or use a spray can[pretty good paint]. These will be your best options.

By the way If you are talking about the unit I suggested you get did you ask the questions I told you to about tip sizes. There is hardly anything thinner that the lacquer paint you first posted about and it will spray from the unit with the proper tip. If you think that spraying latex through a gun gives you any idea of how it will spray with lacquer or even thinned down enamel[car enamel] you are nuts.


"For what you are spraying this may do the trick. You will need a small tip so ask what size it comes with and if there are any other sizes like 1mm or so. If you buy it add something inexpensive to get over $50.00 for free shipping"

Send it back and either rent a unit let somebody else do it or use a spry can
 
  #28  
Old 12-05-04, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimax
dude as I said earlier, I've never used a HVLP system before. People ahve to start somewhere. They'll ask stupid qns, make mistakes. That's how you learn. You can treat me like a fool, but you don't have to be mean abt it.

I was just trying various paints to see if the system I bought works well in the first place. It's a made-in-china setup which didn't even come with instructions. I chose to try it with water-based paint so that cleaning up wouldn't be a problem. It was also the only paint I had lying arnd. Auto-paint isn't cheap, and I wasn't gonna buy it until I knew I had a working HVLP system.

I don't know how a HVLP system is supposed to act. That's why I asked. Besides, I assume if the system can't even spray paint, regardless of type, properly in the first place, then maybe it isn't working properly? Maybe my assumption is wrong, that's why I posted my concerns here.

I appreciate all the advice you've given me so far, but I'm still new to all this. I will make dumb mistakes and ask stupid qns. I may not even know the basics well. I've searched the 'net for info on HVLP but I've yet to find anything for a beginner like me.

I thought forums like this were supposed to be for people to help each other out, but if you're gonna treat a beginner like this, then maybe I'm asking my qns at the wrong place.

I figured that's what you were doing, testing
I know you didn't know latex wouldn't work
How would you?
Don't let it bug you...
Anyway try it out with some cheap enamel
It'll prolly work alot better
If not then maybe it's the cheap gun haha
Please post back with how it goes
 
  #29  
Old 12-05-04, 06:35 AM
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Ultimax,
Please accept an apology for any posts that made you feel belittled. This is not our intent in ANY of the DIY.COM Forums. If you already knew how to do your project at hand I don't believe you would have come here asking for help.

As you have not gotten the answer you are seeking and I know nothing about painting(automotive anyway). I searched and searched online for some basic instructions and information that could possiably help you. I found this site on how to paint a car. The basics should be the same and it has some good information on do's and don'ts, along with why the "cheaper" hvlp guns are good. This should set you on the right track with your project.


http://www.lambolounge.com/Body/Paint/paint.asp


Good luck on your project and please post back with questions on this or future projects.
 
  #30  
Old 12-05-04, 07:01 AM
ultimax
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Slickshift, Majakdragon,

thanks for your kind words of encouragement. I'll certainly keep you guys updated. Also, thanks for the site majak! It the best site on painting I've been to thusfar!

EDIT:

BTW, with the cheap enamel paint, should I use it straight out of the can or do I have to thin it? THe cheap HVLP unit didn't come with a viscosity cup! What consistency should I be aiming for?
 
  #31  
Old 12-05-04, 07:26 AM
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majakdragon
That is actually the best site about DIY auto painting I have seen
I can't wait to peruse it at my lesiure
It doesn't hurt that it's filled with Lambos either
Though I sure wouldn't suggest a Countach as a first DIY project
lol
It's a keeper
Thanks
 
  #32  
Old 12-05-04, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ultimax

EDIT:

BTW, with the cheap enamel paint, should I use it straight out of the can or do I have to thin it? THe cheap HVLP unit didn't come with a viscosity cup! What consistency should I be aiming for?
You may have to play that by ear
(cheap + cheap + Singapore = too many unknowns)
Try it w/o first, see how it goes on a practice piece
Than add a little at a time, if needed
 
  #33  
Old 12-05-04, 07:42 AM
ultimax
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Originally Posted by slickshift
You may have to play that by ear
(cheap + cheap + Singapore = too many unknowns)
Try it w/o first, see how it goes on a practice piece
Than add a little at a time, if needed
haha yeah i know. I'd just kill to have a Lowes or a Homedepot around these parts! I was quoted $95 to ship joneq's Chicago Electric HVLP recommendation (which costs $49.99) to Singapore!

It also sucks that we don't have most of the brands readily available in the US. The upside is that stuff here is usually much cheaper

BTW, can I leave the spray gun standing with paint in it? Not overnight for sure, but while waiting for a coat to dry? What's the general rule of thumb concerning this?

thanks!
 
  #34  
Old 12-05-04, 07:58 AM
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I feel the need to reply. I think I gave you more than enough info to do the job correctly. The Photo on the link shows a viscosity cut included with the unit. Did't know about the shipping. And you never said anything.I can get that item all the way from China to California to my front door for free

Insted of wasting money on cheap enamal paint why not buy the one you want and don't add the hardener until you get it down. You will never use a quart of paint to paint a bike.There should be directions witht the paint. Thin it like 10% at least

Most stuff is made in China.

Just saw your last post . What were you using to spray with if you didn't use the chicago electric. My help was directed toward you using that. If you didn't well sorry. You made it clear you were not willing to spend much money and to me that sounds like you want to go cheap. Sorry if I got confused,but this is the 21st post in this topic and you still don't have any paint laid down
 
  #35  
Old 12-05-04, 08:45 AM
ultimax
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You have certainly given me a lot of information about painting but most of my messages were about the HVLP system I was using, and how it appeared to be not functioning properly. I've never worked with such a system before, so I wanted to make sure it was working properly before starting.

I also mentioned that I had bought a system like the Chicago Electric, but I think I was quite clear (in several posts) that I did not buy that brand/model specifically. Mine certainly didn't come with a viscosity cup.

I found a small can of enamel paint at home, that's why I'm going to test the HVLP spray gun with it.

The reason why there are 21 posts and why I haven't started painting yet is it's the weekend. The auto paintshop is closed, so I had to test the spray with paint I already had. Also, I had to deal with a faulty HVLP gun which I eventually got replaced. That took some time. I also respond quickly to all posts because I believe the more I know before any endeavour I undertake, the better prepared I'll be. The sooner I reply, the sooner (hoepfully) I'll have my questions answered.

I don't want to argue you and I'm sorry if you feel I've been wasting your time. I can assure you your advice has been well taken and much appreciated. But being a beginner, perhaps one not as confident as you may have been when you first started, I'll definitely want to have my concerns/questions addressed before I begin. I don't like just "winging" it and correcting the mistakes I make as I go along. If I can avoid making a mistake, why not?




Originally Posted by joneq
I feel the need to reply. I think I gave you more than enough info to do the job correctly. The Photo on the link shows a viscosity cut included with the unit. Did't know about the shipping. And you never said anything.I can get that item all the way from China to California to my front door for free

Insted of wasting money on cheap enamal paint why not buy the one you want and don't add the hardener until you get it down. You will never use a quart of paint to paint a bike.There should be directions witht the paint. Thin it like 10% at least

Most stuff is made in China.

Just saw your last post . What were you using to spray with if you didn't use the chicago electric. My help was directed toward you using that. If you didn't well sorry. You made it clear you were not willing to spend much money and to me that sounds like you want to go cheap. Sorry if I got confused,but this is the 21st post in this topic and you still don't have any paint laid down
 
  #36  
Old 12-05-04, 08:54 AM
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I too apologize on diy's behalf.

Mean spirited posts are not welcome here and are totally uncalled for.

Everyone has a bad day and I'm sure that no one meant anything by his comments.

Sometimes a diy'er will learn by doing and have a difficult time explaining how to correct a problem if they have never had a problem themselves.
We have quite a few pros on here who do things they offer advice on at the professional level.
We also have some who are not professionals but through experience are more than capable of offering guidance.

As hard as we all try to help, you must also use some of your own smarts to sort out what is offered.
We appreciate your coming here for this advice but realistically are not the only place to get it.
I would like to think you would come here first and then continue your research to either confirm what you get here or expand your knowlege.

As far as your problem.

Because I only have limited experience, perhaps as much as others here I am hesitant to offer any advice on this type of equipment.
I've sprayed a few things with someone else's and it worked perfectly. Didn't have to change a thing.
This doesn't qualify me to solve your problem.

Syphon feed spray with enamel, as a diy'er I can offer help.
Straight rust paint from the hardware store and auto enamel, with or without activator require different spraying tecniques from other paints.

I would honestly say that the spray gun should have been the last thing you should have bought.
The first would be to decide on the paint.
There is an amazing variety to choose from.

I would suggest you either return the gun if you possibly can and start from scratch or put it away and think about the rest of what you need to know.
You can get into this as deep as you want.
There is no need to spend any money untill you know more than just what gun to buy.

So, if you want to go more into this we may be able to help, and maybe people that really mean well won't make any assumptions.
 

Last edited by GregH; 12-05-04 at 09:29 AM. Reason: Got mixed up with names.
  #37  
Old 12-05-04, 09:00 AM
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Location: NYC
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I had no idea you were still using the original unit and I am sorry for giving you the reply I did in that way. But I got a little upse twhen you said you tried it with latex and it didn't work But please at least get some of the paint you will be using to practice with. just don't add the hardener while you are practicing. Doesn't that make sense.'

I have bought many things from Harbor Freight at steep discounts and have more often [to a great degree] been happy with my purchases. If you don't like it they send you a pre paid label to return it. In other words it costs you virtually nothing. Not a bad deal for the continental USA anyway. This post was being written as gregh posted his
 
  #38  
Old 12-05-04, 04:08 PM
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Just a follow-up to what GregH has mentioned and it should be adhered to by all, members and moderators alike. We have Forum policies which after reading this thread saddens me and will not be tolerated.

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  #39  
Old 12-06-04, 05:21 AM
ultimax
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thanks for all the advice guys. This forum certainly isn't the only place I'm getting information from. I've been reading and visiting as many sites as possible. It's just nice to have someone answer your questions specifically. Websites are great, but the info they provide is passive. Not specific or personal.

I don't have friends who have done this before so I needed to get in touch with ppl who have. The hardwarestore people weren't particularly friendly or helpful either. It's hard to explain, but over here, everyone sends for a contractor when they need to fix stuff. DIY Home improvement isn't big here so resources for people who want to do things themselves are limited.

Anyway, the HVLP unit I bought is a dud. It didn't work well with enamel pain either. I brought itb ack to the store and after much persuasion, I got a refund. The store wanted to sell me a professional system, with compressor and a proper HVLP gun, but the total would have exceeded my budget. It's a waste though because the price he offered was pretty good. But I reasoned I'm not gonna use the HVLP system much after this, so maybe now's not the time to make such an investment.

So yeah, I've pretty much thrown in the towel. I'm gonna use spray cans now. I'll be visiting an autoparts store soon to see what they've got.

Thanks to all who have offered me help or pointed me in the right direction. Your advice has not been in vain, and I certainly know a lot more abt HVLP and painting than I used to!
 
  #40  
Old 12-06-04, 05:56 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cape Cod
Posts: 4,320
Yeah if it's just the one project it's hard to justify the cost of the tools
Have you stopped by any shops/paint booths and asked how much for them to do it?
You'd get a nicer finish than with cans
I'd wonder what a bike job would go for there
Also the cans vary in quality, some are VERY good
I actually won't paint anything with a can unless it's a color that Eastwood Co. (auto restoration tools) makes, the stuff is unbelievable
So my lawn furniture matches the engine block from a '74 AMC Javelin
HaHa
Let us know how it goes!
 
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