?s - Especially abt Molding and Paneling
#1
12-16-04, 10:50 AM
?s - Especially abt Molding and Paneling
We’ve just moved into our first home and have a lot of painting to do! I’ve been reading up, but still have several questions I haven’t found the answer to yet:
1. How do I get rid of a crack between the ceiling and wall (painted drywall, no molding at the tope)? It runs pretty much the length of the wall, wider in some spots than others. Do I need to apply dry wall tape and paint over it? Or can I apply a caulking that comes in those easy squeeze tubes?
2. How do I get rid of hairline spaces between cove molding at the top of the wall and the ceiling? Do I need to remove the molding and renail it more snugly? It lies flush against the ceiling on some spots and shows gaps at others. (The house was built in 1972, do those things settle funny?) Or do I need to apply caulking or spackling or some kind of filler?
3. Gaps between wood paneling pieces (they’ve been painted over white, panels aren’t loose but aren’t flush together) – again do I use some kind of filler to eliminate this?
4. Master bedroom walls are wood paneling that’s been painted over and in several spots both the paint and the top layer of the wood paneling are raised (mostly found along panel edges) and could easily be peeled off the panel itself. The room needs repainting but how do I eliminate this peeling problem first? Should I peel it off and sand it? Try to glue it back down?
5. Several brass doorhandles have paint around them. Is there a chemical to remove this without having to take off the doorhandles themselves? Looks like someone tried to paint the doors quick and didn’t care about the details.
6. Water spot damage in corner of one ceiling – (roof has been replaced since then) – it’s not too major (not bulging out, just brown spots), should I give it a few coats of paint before painting the whole ceiling?
If anyone can give suggestions for any of these problems, I would appreciate it!
1. How do I get rid of a crack between the ceiling and wall (painted drywall, no molding at the tope)? It runs pretty much the length of the wall, wider in some spots than others. Do I need to apply dry wall tape and paint over it? Or can I apply a caulking that comes in those easy squeeze tubes?
2. How do I get rid of hairline spaces between cove molding at the top of the wall and the ceiling? Do I need to remove the molding and renail it more snugly? It lies flush against the ceiling on some spots and shows gaps at others. (The house was built in 1972, do those things settle funny?) Or do I need to apply caulking or spackling or some kind of filler?
3. Gaps between wood paneling pieces (they’ve been painted over white, panels aren’t loose but aren’t flush together) – again do I use some kind of filler to eliminate this?
4. Master bedroom walls are wood paneling that’s been painted over and in several spots both the paint and the top layer of the wood paneling are raised (mostly found along panel edges) and could easily be peeled off the panel itself. The room needs repainting but how do I eliminate this peeling problem first? Should I peel it off and sand it? Try to glue it back down?
5. Several brass doorhandles have paint around them. Is there a chemical to remove this without having to take off the doorhandles themselves? Looks like someone tried to paint the doors quick and didn’t care about the details.
6. Water spot damage in corner of one ceiling – (roof has been replaced since then) – it’s not too major (not bulging out, just brown spots), should I give it a few coats of paint before painting the whole ceiling?
If anyone can give suggestions for any of these problems, I would appreciate it!
#2
12-17-04, 08:33 PM
1. It depends on the size to the crack. If it is smaller than a pencil you may caulk it. Otherwise you will have to tape it. Do a little more research on taping and mudding, it is more involved than just apply and paint.
2. Caulk it
3.caulk
4. Don't peel it, this will make the problem worse. Hold somthing stiff against the paneling above where it is peeling at a place that is still stuck and try to make a clean break. Prime the raw wood,(and the rest of the paneling if it has never been painted) Then use sheetrock mud to repair the uneven areas. Sand smooth, reprime, and paint.
5. It depends on what kind of Paint it is. Denatured acohol might take it off if it is latex paint. Mineral spirits or Laquer thinner if it is oil. Be careful as these may remove the protective coating on your brass. Don't forget the elbow grease.
6. You will have to prime the spots with a good oil base sealer/primer. Then paint it. It will probably take two coats.
2. Caulk it
3.caulk
4. Don't peel it, this will make the problem worse. Hold somthing stiff against the paneling above where it is peeling at a place that is still stuck and try to make a clean break. Prime the raw wood,(and the rest of the paneling if it has never been painted) Then use sheetrock mud to repair the uneven areas. Sand smooth, reprime, and paint.
5. It depends on what kind of Paint it is. Denatured acohol might take it off if it is latex paint. Mineral spirits or Laquer thinner if it is oil. Be careful as these may remove the protective coating on your brass. Don't forget the elbow grease.
6. You will have to prime the spots with a good oil base sealer/primer. Then paint it. It will probably take two coats.
#3
12-17-04, 09:39 PM
Member
Yep to all of the above. My only other thoughts would be:
4. If its wood peeling up, I'd squeeze some carpenters wood glue behind it, and use a couple nails to tack it down.
4. If its wood peeling up, I'd squeeze some carpenters wood glue behind it, and use a couple nails to tack it down.
#4
12-18-04, 01:11 PM
I would like to add some thoughts on#1, #5 and #6.
If the paint on the knobs etc is latex there are products on the market designed originally and specifically for the removal of spilled,dripped and misapplied latex paints.Two of the better known products are "Goof-Off" and "Oops".Since their introduction it has been found that these products have many uses but the original use was to remove latex paint.They work far easier than alcohol or simular solvents and are available at almost any hardware store.Also mineral spirits will do little to remove oil based paint once it has dried.The suggestion of lacquer thinner is better but as stated it will also damage any finish it comes in contact with.
On the ceiling stains make certain any primer you use states on the can it is a stain blocker or simular wording.Not all primers are stain blocking and if yours isn't all the coats you put on won't really stop bleed through.
On the possible need to tape any cracks etc make sure you use a mesh tape for drywall.This is the only type of drywall tape that will truly stop cracks from reopening at some later point.Expansion and contraction will cause drywall cracks to reappear and paper tape will open up from this.Mesh tape will not.
If the paint on the knobs etc is latex there are products on the market designed originally and specifically for the removal of spilled,dripped and misapplied latex paints.Two of the better known products are "Goof-Off" and "Oops".Since their introduction it has been found that these products have many uses but the original use was to remove latex paint.They work far easier than alcohol or simular solvents and are available at almost any hardware store.Also mineral spirits will do little to remove oil based paint once it has dried.The suggestion of lacquer thinner is better but as stated it will also damage any finish it comes in contact with.
On the ceiling stains make certain any primer you use states on the can it is a stain blocker or simular wording.Not all primers are stain blocking and if yours isn't all the coats you put on won't really stop bleed through.
On the possible need to tape any cracks etc make sure you use a mesh tape for drywall.This is the only type of drywall tape that will truly stop cracks from reopening at some later point.Expansion and contraction will cause drywall cracks to reappear and paper tape will open up from this.Mesh tape will not.
