another cabinet painting question


  #1  
Old 05-25-05, 07:42 AM
Millipede
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another cabinet painting question

I'm going to be painting my kitchen cabinets next week. They are currently varnished wood, never been painted before. I know all the prep steps that need to be done, but I'm not sure what type of roller to get. Does a thicker nap give more or less of a texture (I'm looking for the smallest amount)?

I realize that brushing gives the least amount of orange-peeling, but I know from other projects that I'm not very good at getting an even amount of paint on with a brush. I'm just much more comfortable with a roller. On the walls I didn't care about texture, but it will look strange on cabinets.

- Millipede
 
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Old 05-25-05, 09:57 AM
M
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Use a 1/4 -3/8" nap especially made for enamel. Stay away from the cheap ones as they tend to leave fuzz. I prefer the mohair roller covers for this type of work. The larger the nap the more paint it holds but the more stiple it will leave on the painted surface. If you desire the brushed look you can apply the paint with a roller and then gently 'tip it off' with a brush.
 
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Old 05-25-05, 09:57 AM
J
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Use foam rollers, brushes and sash pads[not foam] of different sizes to paint the cabinets frames and the doors[unless they are intricate then spray the doors.].Keep a brush [foam or regular Melemine paint will level out like a spray job. Use bullseye 123 or waterbased bullseye from here . Just first degrease[greased lightling] and then clean with soilax pro[paint store=no rinse] or similar and prime then paint.Do not sand first. You do not need to sand with these primers as they cure they become permanent. Should be done by lunch
 
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Old 05-25-05, 11:05 AM
K
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In the final stages of painting/glazing my cabinets. To clean, I preferred using mineral spirits v. other cleaners, as it cuts the grease and grime better w/ less residue. I also preferred sanding over the recommended primers, because I was able to insure a more consistent base, e.g. old varnish drips were sanded out.

I used a proprietary water based paint, and was still able to remove most brush strokes. I put the paint on with a foam roller (I got less stipple than with a Mohair brush) and tipped it off. I found that a foam brush was effective for tipping off, as was a dry high quality brush.

I wouldn't hope to finish before lunch though--its taken me several months. I chose NOT to spray, as I was putting about 8 coats on 2 sides of 38 doors. I figured by the time I cleaned the sprayer between coats, I would have spent more time spraying than rolling.

Have fun!
 
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Old 05-27-05, 08:04 AM
Millipede
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Thanx for the advice. I'm heading to HD tonight for supplies and Duron tomorrow for paint. I'll let y'all know how it goes!

38 doors, Kim? Wow, you are making me appreciate my small kitchen. I only have 12 doors and 1 drawer to do.

- Millipede
 
  #6  
Old 05-27-05, 08:29 AM
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Two things... I would ALWAYS sand before priming. Even if you use something like Liquid Sandpaper.... if you are going to go to all that trouble, you might as well do it right. 2nd thing as far as your finish coat goes... I'm not familiar with the Duron line, but I know a few other lines have come up with a latex base paint, with oil like qualities. Ben Moore has one called "waterborne satin impervo"... it flows like an oil and dries hard as an oil, but won't turn yellow. You should check into that. Also, you can always add floetrol to the paint to slow the drying time down, so it will level out better.
 
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Old 05-27-05, 05:59 PM
M
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I believe all these new finishes of that variety have waterborne somewhere in the name. I've used SWP's pro classic waterborne and would recomend it to anyone. Probably the best interior enamel I have ever used.
 
 

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