Oil or Water Base Primer?


  #1  
Old 06-20-05, 10:57 AM
gaily_68
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Oil or Water Base Primer?

I have been told two different things....
I have just removed wallpaper (what a pain!) & it appears to be drywall with one coat of flat paint on the wall. During the wallpaper removal there were a few small spots that the "paper" coating on the drywall came off with the wallpaper. I have used spackling to fill in the small holes (nail holes, etc.) and I think I am ready to start with a primer before I paint. This is the part I am confused about....
One place I read that I should use an oil base primer because a water base will soak through & leave dark spots after I paint.
On another site (Lowe's) it says that I should always use a water base primer, never an oil base. Oil base will show all flaws when the final paint is dry.

Sooooo....which is it? BTW, I can't find the brands that I have read about in this forum.

Thanks for your input!
 
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Old 06-20-05, 11:48 AM
N
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I think that since you've already spackled.. I would lightly sand and put a coat of latex primer(bullseye, fresh start ect.) and top coat it with a good quality latex finish. You should be good to go.

-billy
 
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Old 06-20-05, 01:26 PM
J
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I agree witht the latex, but just to be sure I would spot prime the repaired areas with some Bin in the spray can[shake it good], then prime the whole thing with some bullseye 123 / Both these products are available in the depot or any good paint store. I would also tint the 123 towards the finish coat color.
 
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Old 06-20-05, 02:47 PM
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A primer is used to seal and provide a good bond between the substrate and the paint. The comments you've read are new to me. In 30+ years, I've never seen either of those happen. I guess its because I always use a quality primer and quality paint. You never see the primer after the top coat is applied, so those comments you've read do not make any sense.
What did they say about an alcohol (shellac) based primer like BIN?

In your case, yes, use a latex primer. Simply because clean-up is easier and you don't need the ventilation you would with an oil or shellac based primer.

Its the top coat that will determine how well the flaws show up. A flat will hide all but the worst. A gloss shows everything. flat is the hardest to clean, gloss is the easiest. Best compromise is an eggshell or satin.

Lowes and HD carry the zinnser primers, the 123 that was recommended.

Get your paint from a paint store. The difference in quality is well worth the extra cost.
 
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Old 06-20-05, 03:24 PM
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One place I read that I should use an oil base primer because a water base will soak through & leave dark spots after I paint.
I assume this means the residual paste could bleed through a latex primer, which could happen if all the adhesive is not removed.
On another site (Lowe's) it says that I should always use a water base primer, never an oil base. Oil base will show all flaws when the final paint is dry.
I disagree with this, especially the second sentence. It doesn't make sense, but it might be taken out of context.

It boils down to is there is no perfect universal primer for all similar cases. Primer selection is/should be made on a job-to-job basis.

If all the adhesive is removed from the substrate, a latex or acrylic will suffice.
If there is residual adhesive on the substrate, an oil or alkyd or shellac (BIN) should be used. Or a DRC at the very least.
 
  #6  
Old 06-20-05, 04:50 PM
gaily_68
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Thanks everyone! I mis-stated one thing on the water-base primer....some places in the wall is down to the paper on the drywall & it wasn't bleeding through that was the problem it was that the water-base primer (and the paint) would soak into the drywall & create spots that are darker or lighter when the paint is dry. I have pulled off the wallpaper in another section & have removed all the wallpaper, but there is a considerable amount of glue left behind. I have been using hot water & fabric softener & hot water with a little dish detergent & these are bringing off the glue....the problem is that by the time I get all the glue off, I'm into the paper of the drywall. Evidently these walls were not well prepped before papering. Is there any other way to get around all this glue? I thought about sanding it off....I'm getting a little frustrated with it.
 
  #7  
Old 06-20-05, 05:00 PM
gaily_68
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Yet another question....this is a split foyer 3-story townhouse & the ceilings are 12 ft. in the area around the stairs, therefore I will be using a roller with an extention. I plan (after I get past the priming part) to use a pale cream yellow color in a satin finish. What tool would be best to do the cutting in...I have seen foam tools & "brushes" as well as standard brushes. What nap would be best for a light color satin paint? Also, my dad says that Dutch Boy paint at Wal-Mart is just as good as others.....do you agree? I don't want to have to repaint next year! Sorry for all the questions...I'm a real novice, but I love getting in there & working at it. Thanks again!
 
 

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