I've used this machine before to do a single room and other than the crazy amount of overspray it works great. This time I'll be doing a whole house with everything stripped out (no carpet etc). Last time I used it I painted walls first, taped them off and then sprayed the ceiling. It worked well, however, if I have to do it that way this time that's an awful lot of taping. Any advice on how to do walls and ceiling (walls beige and ceiling white). Should I do ceiling first? walls first? and how do I handle the masking?

thanks for the advice!

 

I have always preffered to spray the ceiling and then cut and roll the walls. IMO it makes for a better looking job. There are ways to spray the wall after spraying the ceiling. You can use a shield to keep the spray off of the ceiling but it does take some practice. A better method is to spray paint onto the the walls and have another person back roll [and also roll closer to the ceiling] Ofcourse there is still cut in work to do with a brush.

Be sure to mask and cover up anything that doesn't need painting.

 

I always do the ceiling first
There is always a lot of taping when spraying, that's the nature of it
If you are spending as much time taping as spraying you are probably right on track
I refer to jeffk's site when spraying, some great tips there:
http://www.geocities.com/jksabrosa/

 

thanks for the feedback. So you spray the ceilings first, then tape them off? then spray the walls? How do you tape off a ceiling? this one has popcorn on it which I don't think the tape will stick to....

 

If you can't tape/mask a surface, you need to buy a spray shield and use it as you spray.


Spray Shield

 

I'd use a spray shield in a situation like that
Mines aluminum though-didn't know they came in plastic PWG, I wonder if they are a bit lighter...lol

 

If you use a shield make sure you wipe it clean often - you don't want to transfer the wet paint from the shield to the ceiling.

I prefer the alum shields, they have a thinner edge which helps to provide a crisper edge.

 

I also use a metal one. The one I linked to happened to be first in line on a google search for it.
As I don't spray much, we use ours for a different purpose. When we remove wallcovering, its impossible to tape/mask off popcorn ceilings. If they aren't protected, they get too wet and can stain. So we use the shield when spraying removal solution near ceilings or other surfaces that couldn't be protected with conventional methods.

 

if you use only a spray shield you will get paint on the ceiling---you will need to repaint it,and trying to repaint the wall ceiling line with a popcorn ceiling is It is also difficult in the corners if they are not 90 degrees---even if they are it is still a hassle.

How do you hold a shield at the ceiling line and spray a continuous line from floor to ceiling or from side to side for that matter,without getting any paint on the ceiling.

Without being disagreeable[who?joneq]do the walls first. This is a real no brainer to me. If you do the ceiling first you will need to paint the wall ceiling line throughout the house--all walls ---all rooms---all popcorn

If you tape the walls or the ceiling you still need to mask the perimeter of the room. There is no more taping just easier taping doing the walls first.I don't get it!!!!!! How does painting the popcorn ceiling first make life easier?

They sell masking tape with the plastic attached to it that unfolds down the wall. Makes life a lot easier,or there is 2 sided masking tape that works well both are available hereor your local paint store. I would use 1 or the other.If you opt for the 2 sided tape get the plastic drop cloths that unfold easy. they are sort of textured==reduces static electricity or something--whatever it is it works.

 

[QUOTE=joneqHow do you hold a shield at the ceiling line and spray a continuous line from floor to ceiling or from side to side for that matter,without getting any paint on the ceiling.QUOTE]



It takes a little practice to get good at using a shield. Most shields are either 3' or 4' wide. The idea is to only spray the short area protected by sheild. It is important to clean the shield often. Corners are best left for brush work although I have used cardboard to help shield the corner.

The advantage of spraying the ceiling first is the elimanation of masking the walls. Although masking the walls may be advantageous for some it does require a lot of time plus the expense of the tape and plastic. There are also the times that the pressure of the airless will blow the tape loose which means even more work.

 

You have to tape one or the other[wall or ceiling] I do not think that you can use only a shield to protect the ceiling and keep the paint off.You can't tape the ceiling so that leaves the walls. Spraying most of the wall and leaving the corners for brush work will produce a different texture and be noticeable imo.

The blade if the shield is not stiff and it is also not perfectly straight. It would be difficult to get the full length of the shield right up to the ceiling line[which may not be straight too], add to that that it is a popcorn ceiling,making it more likely to "not be flat" and you have a recipe for disaster. The blade would have to be tight to the ceiling line and you would need to get it there and keep it there while you were spraying the rest [top to bottom] of the wall.

When moving it you would have to place it into the wet coat so as to protect the ceiling while giving protection for overlapping your strokes. This WILL put wall paint on the ceiling every time[touch up city]. spraying horizontally in no solution either imo.

It is a bad idea in my opinion to rely solely on a shield the protect the ceiling. It is,at best, a tool to eliminate over spray like when you go off the end of the wall.

I may be totally wrong, but when something don't make sense I gotta speak up.I never even thought that the spray shield was being suggested as the only protection to keep all the paint off the ceiling..

Where is jeffk when you need him.I would be interested to know if he would use just a spray shield,experienced as he is,or would he recommend it in this case[or any other for that matter,especially alone

I know how to use a spray shield and I would not use it protecting the ceiling,and it is not the time to learn when it is going to be you who has to do all the tough up on the popcorn ceiling.

 

all good points and I appreciate the feedback. I would *love* to jsut be able to use a spray shield, but I too have concerns over getting overspray on the ceiling. taping off all the walls is...a....pain! But It may be the only option. Maybe I'll give both ways a go and see which works better. What type of paint should I use for the ceiling? Also, what's the best way to remove wallpaper? yuch!

 

[QUOTE=the_dude], what's the best way to remove wallpaper? yuch[/QUOTE



Let someone else do it! Maybe you will get lucky and it will remove easily. Scoring the paper so water will penatrate to the backing and glue helps the most.


Although some prefer ceiling paint which is formulated to be extra flat [helps hide defects] I have always preffered to use wall paint on the ceiling. Either it sprays better or maybe justs sprays better for me. A cheaper grade of wall paint will do just fine - after all who washes ceilings.

 

Whatever paint you use ----use Floetrol in it.

While you are considering how to paint the walls and ceilings--consider this.

The spray gun has to be kept perpendicular to the wall[no arcing like this ) more like this l ]. That means at the bottom you will have to bend down and at the top you will have to reach up to keep the gun perpendicular.To do this you will need to have the handle of the shield virtually on the 8' ceiling

You probably could use an extension ---if it doesn't put you too far away from the wall to use the shield properly, and somewhere in between the top and the bottom,and without stopping the gun,which you have to move very quickly, you will need to place the shield exactly on the ceiling line----tight to the wall and 100% contact to maybe prevent paint getting under.

You will have to do this for each trip up and down the wall with the spray gun,The shield will need to be cleaned very often too,like every time you move it, and on all but the first trip you will be putting the shield into wet paint on one end.Very tricky to place it exactly where it belongs --first try.Second try is when you come back to touch up

I can't really picture any of this happening, and I would love a step by step tutorial on how it is done. If you try it get back and let everyone know how you did it. I would have loved to skip the masking. I am not doing much house painting anymore,but I still need to mask off rooms.



You could make it easy on yourself and roll the whole house except the ceilings---spray them. Rolling comes out good if you add the Floetrol to the paint, or you could use an 18" roller 3/4 or 1" nap for the ceilings.

The Wagner paint stick is nice for the walls,especially in your case what with the whole place being 1 color. I would just empty it and wrap it up in saran wrap overnight.

To remove the wallpaper first try to remove the facing if that doesn't come off too easy or it comes off in small pieces try sanding the wallpaper[not the backing-- the facing] with 40 or 60 grit sandpaper in a random orbit sander if you have one[if not use the Paper Tiger]. Then saturate with Dif[not the gel-it is too expensive imo]in a garden sprayer and keep it wet[very important].

Let the Dif do the work[very important again----do not rush it. You will make a lot of unnecessary work for yourself if you don't wait]. The sandpaper puts loads of holes in the covering of the wallpaper.. If you use the Paper Tiger get the big one.Scoring wallpaper gets old fast with the little one.


Before you saturate any walls with anything make sure the walls were sealed with something before the wallpaper was hung. You don't want to wet the drywall

 

We just sprayed a whole house and did the ceilings the same color as the walls, which was light taupe color. I didn't want to do that but an interior designer told us that was the way to go. It looked excellent and was so much easier. We put on 2 coats including walls in a 1700 sq foot house in 2 days. We did tape trim and windows and doors, which we painted white.
It was an upper end type rental unit so we weren't deeply concerned about "personalizing" it but still wanted it to look good.
Just a thought.

 

That sounds like the best solution. It may not be an option though. I wonder if this is his house or he is painting someone elses where they will dictate.

 

My thoughts also Joneq

 

hey guys. That may be an option (single color). this is my house (rental unit) so I guess I shouldn't be too picky about color. The walls were/are going to be a bamboo beach color (taupe) and the ceilings white. I have trouble imagining the ceilings the taupe color though...

mjd2k any pics of your job or sample color swatch for the imagination?

thx

the_dude

edit: mkd2k I see you're from the flatlands. I'm in Edmonton and will be picking up the paint from Cloverdale (in case it helps you identify the color you used).

 

Most light pastels will appear to be a slightly lighter color on the ceiling. It is only an illusion but it works for some.

 

Hey Dude,

The place we did was in Kelowna and we went to Home Depot for paint. My partner took some pictures but I have yet to see them.

It was a light taupe with a satin finish. I have this number floating around in my blackberry from a Kelowna list: Glidden contempory white 35 200. If you're in Home Depot, you can see if that is a taupe color.

I thought the place would look like a cave with brownish ceilings but with the white trim and new laminate, it looked like a million bucks. If Annette sees this post, she may have some suggestions for colors.

Good Luck and damn those Eskimos