correct taping order

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  #1  
Old 03-22-06, 06:25 PM
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correct taping order

Lately I've getting frustrated with taping. If I tape off my trim and paint the walls, then remove the tape, it's all stuck and ends up leaking through. If I tape my walls to paint my trim, then remove the tape, it lifts paint. What the heck!? I'm using painters pro (green) tape from HD - if there a better method to handle this?

thx
 
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Old 03-22-06, 07:03 PM
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If you find a better way, please let me know. I had the same problem when using tape (blue or green). Other than taping down thick carpet when painting baseboards, I donít use much tape. I usually rely on a good sash brush and steady hand. Sometimes I need to use a shield.
 
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Old 03-22-06, 07:56 PM
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I'd dispense with the tape
It's far better to do it w/o

Be a tape dispenser!
 
  #4  
Old 03-23-06, 05:34 AM
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Me three. Tape doesn't work well on painted surfaces. Purchase a good sash/angle brush. Once you get comfortable using it you will wonder why you ever bothered with tape in the first place.
 
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Old 03-23-06, 07:43 AM
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The problem is that most DIYers don't have the time to practice and learn cutting in with a sash brush. Pros have probably cut in miles and miles of edges and can cut in an edge faster than the rest of us can install tape.
I'm not a pro and I sometimes use tape. Especially when I want a super clean edge as where a wall joins a ceiling, or when I need to protect a floor or unpainted wood trim. For me, the key to using tape is to paint as if it isn't there. I try to get minimal paint on the tape. I also use the brush handle to press down the tape edge as I paint. I think many people hang the tape and the edges ease away from the surface before they start painting. I also don't put tape on recently painted surfaces. Even though the surface may be dry to the touch, it might not be fully cured and the tape might pull off the paint. I also pull the tape as soon as the newly painted surface is touch dry.
 
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Old 03-23-06, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Wayne Mitchell
The problem is that most DIYers don't have the time to practice and learn cutting in with a sash brush. Pros have probably cut in miles and miles of edges and can cut in an edge faster than the rest of us can install tape.
While you certainly have a point, it is not merely an experience issue
The fact is many DIYers decide to paint with tape because it looks like if you tape, you can wave a wet brush in the general area and it will look good
This is not true
Blue tape does not a painter make

It can be used as a tool by a pro or occasional painter
It is mostly used as a crutch by both
...and used badly, with poor results and a frustrated DIYer, as the_dude has found

I still feel the best suggestion I can give the_dude is to do it w/o tape
But I must say, this is some excellent advice for someone who insists on using, or has established that they do need tape
Originally Posted by Wayne Mitchell
I'm not a pro and I sometimes use tape. Especially when I want a super clean edge as where a wall joins a ceiling, or when I need to protect a floor or unpainted wood trim. For me, the key to using tape is to paint as if it isn't there. I try to get minimal paint on the tape. I also use the brush handle to press down the tape edge as I paint. I think many people hang the tape and the edges ease away from the surface before they start painting. I also don't put tape on recently painted surfaces. Even though the surface may be dry to the touch, it might not be fully cured and the tape might pull off the paint. I also pull the tape as soon as the newly painted surface is touch dry.
And thank you for posting that great advice

The best all-around quick take on the Hows and Whys of taping is ProWallGuy's sticky:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=204271
Well worth the read
 
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Old 03-23-06, 09:14 AM
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thanks fellas. I have also tried a shield, however when I pull away it seems to leave paint under it. I'm good with cutting in ceilings with an angled brush. I'm going to have to look into a sash brush.

thanks again!
 
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Old 03-23-06, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by the_dude
I'm good with cutting in ceilings with an angled brush. I'm going to have to look into a sash brush.


A sash brush and angle brush are the same thing. A quality brush is many times better than a cheap brush. Depending on the size/quality of the brush you use on the wall you may like to use a 2" purdy.

BTW if you must use tape [paint must be cured as previously noted] use it as a safety measure and guide. Practice cutting in to the tape - helps you hone your brushing skills and the tape doesn't have to work as hard = less failure.
 
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Old 03-23-06, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Wayne Mitchell
I also don't put tape on recently painted surfaces. Even though the surface may be dry to the touch, it might not be fully cured and the tape might pull off the paint.
Yes, taping newly painted surfaces is risky. In my experience, it can take weeks for latex to cure/harden. A DIYer may have the luxury of waiting for the paint to cure.
 
  #10  
Old 03-23-06, 05:28 PM
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Guys/Gals,
I use tape almost all the time, because I do other stuff besides just paint.

The only tape on the market I use and most professional decorative painters use is Scotch 3m
#2080 low tack blue painter's tape for delicate surfaces. Can be left on for up to 60 days. This tape will not let you down .

I use this tape all the time, and I must have a rabbit's foot or something watching over me, because in all the years I have been using it, it has never failed me. This tape gets better every day. Just got through using it on a two day old finish to tape off around arches to paint a metallic finish. Works great, but you have to make sure you are getting the correct # of the painter's tape when you are buying, burnish really good and don't try and slap a lot of paint on the tape and where it is pressed down.

I also use a good sash brush when just straight painting, but use the blue painter's tape most all the time, because I am doing other finishes as well as just painting.
 
  #11  
Old 03-26-06, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by WALLS&PAINT
The only tape on the market I use and most professional decorative painters use is Scotch 3m #2080 low tack blue painter's tape for delicate surfaces. Can be left on for up to 60 days. This tape will not let you down .
Thanks for the tip on the 3m #2080!

Recently, I used tape to cut a "straight line" where there was no straight line. I was painting trim around a door on a papered wall. The paper was not done well and was overlapping the trim edge, and the paper was lumpy/wavy. I cut what paper I could away from the trim, but that did not fix the lumps and waves. The door was in a high-traffic, well-lit place and any mistake on the cut would be noticeable. So, I used tape to make a line that would visually look straight. However, I did say a prayer beforehand that the tape would not pull off wallpaper when removed. I got away with it, but next time I will explain the situation to the customer, before risking damage to the wallpaper.
 
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