Rotted Window Trim
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Rotted Window Trim
Not sure I am in the correct forum, but someone probably has run into this issue. I have exerior window trim where moisture worked its way into a mitre joint and the trim is partially rotted about 1.5 inches in each direction from mitre cut. The wood is mushy. Its a big window so replacing the entire trim board on both edges is a big deal.
I have found some material on the web called "Wood Rot" there are also some other brands, but most appear to be a very fluid expoxy mixture that is some how absorbed into the wood fibers, sets up and restores structure to the wood.
Has anyone used such material, how did it work, and are there any cautions to be aware?
Thanks,
Mike
I have found some material on the web called "Wood Rot" there are also some other brands, but most appear to be a very fluid expoxy mixture that is some how absorbed into the wood fibers, sets up and restores structure to the wood.
Has anyone used such material, how did it work, and are there any cautions to be aware?
Thanks,
Mike
#2
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It is always best to cut out all rotten wood. Even if you patch, you still need a solid surface to patch. I have never used 'wood rot' but have patched small areas with durhams rock hard putty.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
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Originally Posted by marksr
I have never used 'wood rot' but have patched small areas with durhams rock hard putty.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
I know it is more work but replacing the entire rotten boards is the best way to go. Patches are often just temporary fixes. If replacing the entire board isn't feasable I would cut out the rotten, cut a piece of wood to fit, prime all of its edges and then nail it in place setting it in caulking at all the joints. If done correctly once sanded and any gaps filled the repair shouldn't be noticable by a casual glance.
I do agree though that replacement of the wood is the better idea if possible.If you do go the filler route make certain you get all the damaged material and don't miss any that's hidden.
#4
I'll add my agreement with the other posters that cutting out the rot is the best way to go if you can't replace the entire piece. I tried an epoxy repair product on a rotted sill years ago. It was a real easy fix, I just sctraped out all the loose wood that I could and filled the area with the epoxy.
The repair lasted for a couple of years until the wood around the epoxy rotted. After that I learned that replacing the sill was a better repair. If you decide to cut out the rotted area make sure you cut well beyond the rot until you reach good, solid wood.
The repair lasted for a couple of years until the wood around the epoxy rotted. After that I learned that replacing the sill was a better repair. If you decide to cut out the rotted area make sure you cut well beyond the rot until you reach good, solid wood.