finishing (painting) interior cement floors


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Old 09-25-06, 10:33 AM
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Smile finishing (painting) interior cement floors

DIY Beginner (if you couldn't tell)

I have removed the carpet in my ground level condo and want to finish the concrete floors that were underneath. The unit is about 30 years old. I don't want inlays or anything fancy. I do want to paint it dark brown. My questions are:

1.) at many points there are gaps between the base moulding and the concrete. Through these gaps comes a never ending supply of dust and dirt. I'm assuming I am going to have to temporarily close these gaps to have any hope of cleaning the flooring all the way. is this correct? any tips for cleaning? products, techniques, etc?

2.) only one room appeared to have glue down. how do I remove this? there appears to be no other substance accept a white layer that is around some of the edges near the walls. is this sealer? it will have to be removed before i treat the floors correct? how?

3.) do I have to acid etch it for the paint to absorb?

4.) is sanding/grinding necessary? if so can you rent those machines (i'm in the D.C. area)

5.) how do i fill the chips from removing the tack strips as well as wear on the risers of the steps (sunken living room)? is something like versabond thinset enough?

5.) overall i am looking for a guideline of steps. what is the order in which i treat this so that i have a long lasting, scratch resistant surface. i don't want to have the paint chipping in 6 months.

THANKS!!!!
 
  #2  
Old 10-06-06, 12:24 PM
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are you sure you want painted concrete floors in your home? brown painted concrete floors?

i don't think you'll be happy with them. i envision them showing lots of dust, because of the dark color, and lots of scuffs & scratches.

not to mention they'll be freezing cold in the winter months and hard as a rock.
 
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Old 10-06-06, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by hooslisa
1.) at many points there are gaps between the base moulding and the concrete. Through these gaps comes a never ending supply of dust and dirt. I'm assuming I am going to have to temporarily close these gaps to have any hope of cleaning the flooring all the way. is this correct? any tips for cleaning? products, techniques, etc?
Temporarily?
I'd go for permanent
I'd seal them any gaps with caulk (paintable, not silicone)

Originally Posted by hooslisa
2.) only one room appeared to have glue down. how do I remove this? there appears to be no other substance accept a white layer that is around some of the edges near the walls. is this sealer? it will have to be removed before i treat the floors correct? how?
Scrape, scrape, scrape
If you know the exact adhesive, there may be a solvent that might help

Originally Posted by hooslisa
3.) do I have to acid etch it for the paint to absorb?
No, not always
Not at all depending on the condition and type of the concrete
A better description might help determine this

Originally Posted by hooslisa
4.) is sanding/grinding necessary? if so can you rent those machines (i'm in the D.C. area)
No, not always
Not at all depending on the condition and type of the concrete
A better description might help determine this

Originally Posted by hooslisa
5.) how do i fill the chips from removing the tack strips as well as wear on the risers of the steps (sunken living room)? is something like versabond thinset enough?
That, I can't answer
But it looks like you're over the quota on 5.)'s, so maby I get get the next one

Originally Posted by hooslisa
5.) overall i am looking for a guideline of steps. what is the order in which i treat this so that i have a long lasting, scratch resistant surface. i don't want to have the paint chipping in 6 months.
Hmmmm....well, as I mentioned, a better description of the type of concrete, and the condition of the concrete would be helpful in determining what your steps are

I often am painting concrete floors with Ben Moore's Latex Porch & Patio paint
If the concrete is in decent shape, I can often just clean with my favorite "orange" cleaner and paint away
No acid, no grinding
-but it must be really clean
No dirt, no oil, etc...

Although I often do this for a basement or (exposed) porch, I have to agree with Annette that it might not be the best for a living or family room
 
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Old 10-06-06, 02:31 PM
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There is soy-based product available that will remove the glue. Its called bean-ee-doo. Available only via mail order from Franmar. http://www.franmar.com/

The white powder could be efflorescence. It will always be there, so yes, seal under the baseboards.

No need to sand/grind anything except any remaining mastic.

The only way to fill the tack strip holes is to fill them, rub brick, then coat the entire floor with a refinishing cement product. This isn't something the diyer is going to make look good.

Long lasting scratch resistant? Stain, not paint.
 
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Old 10-06-06, 03:41 PM
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I would add that the gap under the base might be sealed with shoe mould. If the base sets to high for shoe moulding to cover you might want to look at various mouldings to use instead. The thinner [filmsy] the moulding the better it will bend and follow any variances in the floor = tighter fit.
 
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Old 10-06-06, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BobF
There is soy-based product available that will remove the glue. Its called bean-ee-doo. Available only via mail order from Franmar. http://www.franmar.com/
Boy Bob, that really does sound like one of those fake ads from Saturday Night Live

LOL

But thanks for the tip
I'm now going to have to get some "bean-ee-doo by Franmar"


....still lol....
 
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Old 10-07-06, 12:51 PM
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I can hear Dan Akroyd now:

Its a snack food, no its a floor cleaner,... no its BOTH!
 
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Old 10-07-06, 02:23 PM
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"tastes great!"
"...and look at that shine!"
 
 

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