edging a door that was silicone caulked,


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Old 11-05-06, 02:14 PM
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edging a door that was silicone caulked,

I absent-mindedly used a white silicone caulk around the trim on a few doors; of course it is not paint able. The caulked area looks ok however, there must be a really thin transparent coating that got on the wall when I wiped the caulk, any ideas on how I can get this area paint able??? Edging just became a lot more difficult.
 
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Old 11-05-06, 02:58 PM
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You might be able to just rub it off with a light sanding (sanding block) since that light film should just roll off when rubbed.

Truthfully, you should remove all the silicone completely, and recaulk with latex caulk that will completely cover any silicone that might be left. If you don't, the next time you want to paint the door trim or wall, you'll cuss that silicone again.
 
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Old 11-05-06, 05:41 PM
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1-2 coats of a pigmented shellac primer should cover the silicone making it paintable.
 
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Old 11-06-06, 05:29 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr
1-2 coats of a pigmented shellac primer should cover the silicone making it paintable.
Man, I thought I loved using shellac, but you are tops! I would disagree with this application. Shellac is VERY hard, and the caulk is very soft. Any sort of expansion/contraction of the caulk will cause the shellac to crack and peel IMHO. Also, any impact, be it a finger, opening/shutting window could cause the shellac to let go, and create a bigger mess.

In this case I would either remove the caulk and re-caulk with a paintable caulk, or leave it be.
 
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Old 11-06-06, 10:57 AM
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Since there is just a thin coating of silicone caulk on the wall, I'd be suprised if there were any problems cause from priming with shellac.
 
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Old 11-06-06, 02:23 PM
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I can recommend a coat or two of pigmented shellac to make non-paintable caulk paintable
I've used that process successfully numerous times

First I like to wipe down the silicone with alcohol, that can really help with adhesion
 
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Old 11-07-06, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by slickshift
I can recommend a coat or two of pigmented shellac to make non-paintable caulk paintable
I've used that process successfully numerous times

First I like to wipe down the silicone with alcohol, that can really help with adhesion
Its not so much a Can Stick/Can't Stick arguement. I will conceed that you CAN prime caulk w/pigmented Shellac. In the same vein, you CAN prime your whole exterior of your home in Kilz quick dry oil primer. But just because you CAN doesn't make it a good recomendation.

Because of the difference in flexibility of the 2 products, the brittleness of shellac is a POOR choice to cover flexible caulk.

I would actually be curious to read the label of the caulk that he is using. Some caulks are paintable w/latex after a full "cure" This can sometimes run in the 30 day neighborhood.

Good luck, but I would personally avoid shellac for this particular problem.
 
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Old 11-07-06, 04:33 PM
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Yes gb, you made your point and thank you

As for the question of putting shellac over caulk, I would agree it sounds odd
However, options are limited, and this one has been successful for me
It works
 

Last edited by slickshift; 11-07-06 at 06:12 PM.
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Old 11-07-06, 05:06 PM
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Sure, I'll toe the company line now boss.
 
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Old 11-08-06, 06:03 PM
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Zinsser's Cover Stain will also stick to the caulk.
 
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Old 11-08-06, 08:19 PM
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Arrow Question about painting tools

I remember someone putting a roller in the frig. Why? Does it have to be clean first if it will be used with in a very short time?

How is the best way to do a ceiling (twice) and the walls (probably twice too). I thought I would do the ceiling first because cutting the walls would be easier...also the ceiling is harder to reach. Any ideas?

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-09-06, 06:01 AM
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To store a roller or brush [uncleaned] you must first wrap it in plastic. Storing them in the fridge will prolong the time they can be stored.

If both walls and ceiling are getting 2 coats, I would paint the first coat on the ceiling first and while it is drying, roll the walls. By then the ceiling paint should be dry enough to cut the wall paint into the ceiling. On the 2nd coat you need to do your cut in first.

Obviously you need a step ladder for cutting in the ceiling and the top of the walls. Use a roller pole to making rolling both ceiling and walls easier.
 
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Old 12-04-06, 09:49 AM
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I have the same problem with some window trim. I used nonpaintable caulk and not only is it on the trim, but also on the drywall around the trim. It'll be really hard to sand off (all the nooks and crannys).

I've read here about shellac - it this a good application for this solution?

I have some Zinser Bullseye. It seems to stick to and cover just about anything. How about this?

thanks.
 
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Old 12-04-06, 05:44 PM
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I'm recusing myself from this discussion. Carry on
 
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Old 12-17-06, 06:35 PM
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I have always use oil kilz over silicone to make it paintable. Never had any problems or call backs.
 
 

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