Roller marks, dry spots with semi-gloss paint

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Old 11-13-06, 10:34 PM
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Unhappy Roller marks, dry spots with semi-gloss paint

against my wishes my gf decided to have me paint our living room with a semi-gloss paint. I painted over the old color (a satiny looking fisinsh) after a good cleaning and patching of small holes. Two coats later and now that it's dry you can see dry spots and roller marks in the paint. It has covered well but you can see variences in the way it looks after drying. If it is the semi-gloss causing this can i paint over it with a satin finish paint?
 
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Old 11-13-06, 10:56 PM
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Poor quality paint and poor quality rollers are often the cause of a poor quality paint job. Dry spots may be indicative of not getting paint even on roller. Semi-gloss wall paint is usually preferred in areas where washability is of concern, as in bathrooms and kitchens. It is also used on wood work.

Please provide more info on type of paint, quality, and type of roller using, as well as application technique. When repainting with satin finish, you do not want to make the same mistakes.
 
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Old 11-13-06, 11:28 PM
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The paint used was Gliden "Evermore" semi-gloss. The rollers were a "Pro" pack of three from Home Depot. Not the best but they didn't look cheap. They were also the shorter nap ones. I rolled up. down, then in an "M" shape widening out my pattern then finishing up with light pressure top to bottom. I heard that a sheen reducer might have to be used before painting over satin paint?
 
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Old 11-14-06, 12:09 AM
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Evermore is touted to be a premium Glidden Paint. Your technique sounds good. They do mention that glossier paints tend to show lap lines with roller. There is no mention of a requirement of a sheen reducer when painting over satin paint. If walls are new or porous, a primer is recommended.

Glidden's painting tips are at http://www.glidden.com/Easy2/diy0184/diy0184.html

They describe how to properly get paint on roller.
For smooth walls, shorter nap is recommended and the denser the better. For textured walls, depending on amount of texture, longer naps are recommended. High quality, dense rollers offer greater paint pick up and better coverage.
 
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Old 11-14-06, 03:22 AM
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The biggest causes of roller marks are:
Paint Quality
Tool Quality
Technique

Can't comment on that specific product, but the Gliddens I've used were not impressive in the quality dept.

The sleeves should be at least Purdy White Doves, I'd recommend at least a 50/50 wool/poly 1/2" nap
If you can't deal with a 1/2", go with 3/8", but that's an absolute min.

It's common for DIYers to try and squeeze every last drop out of the roller
Th best thing to do is remember to lay the paint on, not squeeze it out


If you've still got some of the paint left, try a better sleeve and the application technique for another coat
If you don't have any product left, get a Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams dealer to match the color with the good stuff, and apply that using the quality sleeve and application


You can switch to a satin if you'd like
 
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Old 11-14-06, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by slickshift
It's common for DIYers to try and squeeze every last drop out of the roller
Th best thing to do is remember to lay the paint on, not squeeze it out

IMO that is probably the crux of the problem. Paint needs to be applied wet. Using too short of a nap can make it harder to keep a wet edge and apply enough paint. The higher the sheen the more critical it is that the paint be applied correctly.
 
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Old 11-14-06, 12:09 PM
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as long as you have to another coat, switch to satin. semi gloss on walls, especially a living room, is just wrong, imo.
 
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