Latex paint on cabnets, seal with what?


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Old 12-04-06, 09:02 PM
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Question Latex paint on cabnets, seal with what?

I just finished sanding and painting my whole kitchen with white kitchen and bathroom laytex paint. My orginal plan was to do a chocolate brown wash over top to look a bit aged and hide any spots I may have not had the best brush strokes with. But I am thinking now that I may have to seal them with some sort of top coat or gloss for the best protection to prevent any peeling where my sanding was not perfect.

Can I just get some tinted polyurithane and use a painters rag to apply it? Or will it end up looking "glossier" in some spots than others? I want it to look good as we are doing all this for resale, but after 3 coats of white on the WHOLE kitchen, I just want to be done painting the freakin' thing.

I don't know if it should be sealed with someting over top. (I know some one who did this with "plastic" paint and never had to seal it with anything, and they look nice and shinny, but mine don't with just the white. I used acrylic latex satin white paint, but it dosent look as shiny as I thought it would. Will the satin brown acrylic latex mixed with water -which was my orig plan- look more or less shiny and will it seal properly?)

So...should I go with tinted gloss or just keep to the original plan and water down my coco brown laytex? I just don't think I can bring my self to do the water and brown latex and then have to out a seeler on it all to.

Good god, this was a bigger project than I had ever thought. The estimate of 4 Days is now going on 3 weeks!!!!
 
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Old 12-05-06, 05:38 AM
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I'm not big on faux painting but there is a forum under decorate that deals with faux painting techniques.

Satin enamel will never be shiny. Of the different types of enamels available, satin has one of the least amount of sheen. For more sheen you would use a semi-gloss or gloss enamel. Enamels by theirselves don't need a sealer. Faux painting over the enamel might.
 
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Old 12-05-06, 11:05 AM
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At this juncture I would roll on a coat of Minwax WATERBASE Poly. Use Either Semi-Gloss or Gloss. It will give you the sheen (shine) and will NOT yellow.

Its not cheap, but a Quart or 2 would probably get it done. Should run about 12-14$ per quart. Thats US $.

Oil base would yellow, and not dry very fast. Poor choice over latex.

BTW this is not really a long term solution. But it is the quick and dirty fix that you seem to want.

Good luck.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 01:17 AM
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I spoke with a guy at the hardware store. He reccomended I should have got a higher glossy paint to begin with. But to sufice with what I have, he reccomended that I mix my brown laytex with a Faux Glaze. They are both BEHR products, so they should work together. The can of glaze says mix 1 part paint to 4 parts glaze. It also says for added protection to do a coat of clear polyurithane.

Is this truly necciary? Will the glaze be fairly durable, or will it scratch easily.
I dont want to have to do this all over again. We are still living here for about 8 months before we plan to list, so the kitchen will be in use. I dont want to be cleaning the cabnets and have the paint peel off.

Today I learnt that I probably should have gone with a melamine paint over laytex. But its a bit late for that advice now. So I will have to make what I have done so far look good and be functional.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 06:07 AM
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I don't know a lot about faux painting but it would be best to apply the clear poly over the glaze. If the glaze wears away, so will the faux paint effect A coat of poly protects the faux painting underneath it.
 
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Old 12-06-06, 09:50 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I think I am going to put the brown paytex misex with the faux glaze on tomorow and then I will see how it looks. If its not shinny enough or looks like it could wear quite easly, I will put the poly on too!
 
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Old 12-17-06, 06:19 PM
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any behr paint will not hold up under the abuse cabinets receive.

I would solve your problem with an OIL based semi-gloss poly. The amber color of it might give you the older look you are after anyway.
 
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Old 12-19-06, 12:35 PM
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Holy cow, so put the Brown paint mixed with glaze on, and it looked like I smeared Poo all over the cabnet. I played arround with the misture and ended up using all the glaze and never being happy with what I got.

So I am going to rough up the few doors with the poo on themand re-paint them with laytex. I went to the hardware store and got told that I did everything wrong, and that I now need to sand, put a sealer on, sand, paint with laytex or melamine, then sand and put a seal on top.

Quite frankly, this has taken me over 6 weeks now, and I am NOT willing to do all that. I dont care, I am going to put one more coat on laytes where it is neede and put a poly on top. I think I will go with a water baised one as we get allot of light in our kitchen.

Or I could go with a slightly tinted poly/stain in one, then if it does yellow, maybe it wont be as noticeable...

any suggestions at this pint?



*I am thinking of just making it work untill next summer, when I will buck up and get new cabnets and counters re-installed. No point spending 5G on granite or Corian if I am putting it on medioker cabnets...
 
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Old 12-19-06, 01:36 PM
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A good enamel [latex, waterborne or oil base] shouldn't need a sealer on top. You will need to sand and probably use a primer. If you have a SWP or BM store near you I'd suggest going to them for the primer and paint.

If your unhapply with the color/effect now I doubt a coat of polyshades will help - unless you just need sheen.
 
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Old 12-29-06, 07:13 AM
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Red face

Ha Ha, so if this shows what I am capeable of...

My husband has booked a cabnet guy to come over today for a quote!

(I guess he doesnot like my paint job!)
 
 

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