Need Prep Advice for after Wallpaper Removal


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Old 12-14-06, 01:08 PM
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Need Prep Advice for after Wallpaper Removal

The boss says that we must proceed with a project to remove the 30 year old wallpaper in our oldest son's room and paint the walls with something modern and washable, namely latex paint. I am in desparate need of advice regarding the best method of preparing the walls for painting after the wallpaper is removed. It appears that the wallpaper was applied directly over the sheetrock when the house was built. After removing the wallpaper, two major problems appear:
1) Areas of paper are torn off the wallboard ranging from 1 to several square inches. I would guess that a dozen of these spots appear in a 12x14 ft room.
2) In some areas the adhesive that held the wallpaper stays adhered to the wallboard and cannot be removed by any chemical treatment I have tried. Sanding works sometimes, but sometimes sanding makes the surface even worse. Sometimes it looks like the adhesive has actually chemically reacted with the sheetrock surface and left an new material permanently attached.
What should I do to get these wall in shape for painting? When I visit the store, I am overwhelmed by the number of compounds, puttys, coatings and caulks that are available. I would greatly appreciate any advice that calls out the specific manufacturer and trade name of a product since, for example, DAP makes 50 products and 50 companies make spackling. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help.
 
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Old 12-14-06, 02:11 PM
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Welcome to the forums

Hot water usually disolves the wallpaper adhesive. Not a fun job but if possible it is best to remove all the glue. Any drywall with the paper face missing needs to first be coated with a solvent based primer before patching or painting. Zinnsers BIN would be a good primer for this - it is also good for coating glue that you can't remove.

I normally use joint compound for drywall repairs - mainly because I always seem to have some handy. Spackling can be used for minor repairs. IMO the brand name doesn't make a lot of difference.

Whenever you paint it is best to go to a paint store [not dept] A paint store will have better products [stay away from their cheapest line] and the staff is usually pretty helpful on what products/tools you need to get a good job.
 
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Old 12-14-06, 02:58 PM
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Thanks Mark. There's still a lot of crud left that the hot water won't dissolve. BIN works fine for me. Should I just spot coat the problem areas? I'm not big on names either, I'm just trying to get a point of reference. My confusion: when I look on USG's website under joint compound, there are 12 different types!! Would one of these in particular be best for this kind of job? Do I need to cover the joint compound patches with the remainder of the BIN? Thanks in advance, bs
 
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Old 12-14-06, 05:01 PM
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Spot priming is fine - unless priming the whole wall is easier. The repairs when done will also need primer - latex primer is best but the BIN will also work.

I've not been to the USG web site, were all the compounds ready mixed or were some powder form? In 5 gal buckets I'm only aware of 3 different kinds but you probably don't need over 1 gal and I believe only 1 formula is available in the 1 gal size. All 3 formulas will work for what you need to do.
 
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Old 12-14-06, 06:29 PM
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Some of the compounds are ready mix, some are powder and some are both. A really extensive product line but far too confusing for me. This sounds like it might not be nearly as bad as I had thought. We'll pull down the paper, survey the damage, roll BIN over the bad spots, patch everything til it's smooth and prime with latex. Sound excellent to me. We'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again. bs
 
 

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