Priming kitchen chairs?
#1
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Priming kitchen chairs?
I would like to paint our white painted kitchen chairs and table legs a beige color as they have a few scratches and chips on the bottom legs. Do I have to use a paint remover or can I just use primer (which would be a lot easier)? The set was quite expensive and then last year we had a corian top put on it so I'd like to salvage it if possible. Any hints or suggestions would be appreciated. Or would I be better off having it professionally done? Thanks for any help.
#2
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Welcome to the diy forums Marilyn
You don't need to strip the old paint, sanding should be sufficent. I would recomend using a good oil base enamel with a good natural bristle brush. Thinning the paint slightly will help in avoiding brush marks.
Latex enamel will also work but it is harder to not have brush marks. Also depending on the type of finish on the chairs/legs now, a primer might be needed. Oil base enamel also dries harder than latex = longer wear.
You don't need to strip the old paint, sanding should be sufficent. I would recomend using a good oil base enamel with a good natural bristle brush. Thinning the paint slightly will help in avoiding brush marks.
Latex enamel will also work but it is harder to not have brush marks. Also depending on the type of finish on the chairs/legs now, a primer might be needed. Oil base enamel also dries harder than latex = longer wear.
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Spray paint...
I redid our kitchen table and chairs using spray paint - avoided the brush marks and made it easy to get into the detail and angles. I lightly sanded the chairs with 220 grit paper, put a coat of primer then 2 coats of paint. Looks good although not show room new. Only had it for 6 months so don't know what the long term durability will be.
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All of the above, but first, thoroughly clean before sanding, and always use a primer. I like Zinser 1-2-3. Spraying does eliminate brush marks, as does thinning oil based paint. I would avoid latex, looks terrible when done.
#5
I'd recommend a good quality oil-based enamel also
No primer, just a good scuff sanding, and wipe off the dust with a "tack" cloth
A premium enamel (from Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams) applied with a quality brush made for oils and you should be good
I'd have a a little Penetrol (conditioner) on hand too, just in case
A shot or two in the paint helps "level" out brush marks, and will increase the drying time (allowing you to get a smoother final finish) if you start running into issues along those lines
No primer, just a good scuff sanding, and wipe off the dust with a "tack" cloth
A premium enamel (from Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams) applied with a quality brush made for oils and you should be good
I'd have a a little Penetrol (conditioner) on hand too, just in case
A shot or two in the paint helps "level" out brush marks, and will increase the drying time (allowing you to get a smoother final finish) if you start running into issues along those lines