Bathroom painting

I want to paint our small bathroom which currently has a satin or even a semi-gloss pain on it. I'm not sure how to prep the walls. I will be painting it in a faux finish that uses 3/4 glaze and 1/4 satin paint. Should I prime the bathroom first? If so, do you have any suggestions on a primer? Thanks.

 

First check the finish to see if it's oil or latex
There's a sticky at the top of the painting forum that will tell you how

If it's latex, then it's best to clean and scuff sand the surface
Normally for repaints, there's no need for primer, but the fact that it's a bath, and you'll be faux painting it, I would prime

Ben Moore's Fresh Start, Zinsser's 1-2-3, or Sherwin Williams Prep Rite, are all very good ones I've used and would recommend for this project

 

what faux finish do you want?
this will determine the prep, i have done a lot of faux and depending on faux, there can be very little prep. let me know and i will help you do a great job
ryan

 

Hello,

Two questions please.

Wish to use Kilz ro repaint a bathroom ceiling that has an old, dry brown water stain on it.

Will be using an oil based Kilz, or something similar.

Will this oil based product go over my present ceiling paint, which I believe is Latex paint ? I seem to remember that latex over oil is O.K., but not the other way around ?

In practice, what would actually happen ifan oil Kilz is applied over the latex paint ?

The water stain is several years old, and totally dry.

Is there any probability, therefore, of further bleeding, or bleed-thru ? Nee I need a oil primer at all, or just coat with latex now ?

thanks,
B.

 

There is a big difference between oil/latex finishes and oilk/latex primers. Generally you can apply oil base over latex with no issues on the interior but not latex over oil. On the exterior you can apply latex over weathered oil base.

Latex primers will not properly seal a water stain. You must use an oil base primer and for the real stubborn stains a pigmented shellac. Both can be applied over latex and then top coated with latex when dry.

Oil base kilz would be bare minimum for sealing your stain but will likely do ok, if not either apply a 2nd coat or switch to pigmented shellac [like zinnser's BIN]

 

Hello,

Thanks for previous help.

Very basic question:

A totally dried up interior ceiling brownish water stain from years ago:

Still necessary to "seal it", or just paint over with latex paint ?

Thanks,
Bob

 

Yes, you still need to seal it with a solvent based primer.

 

Hello again,

Thanks for previous help; really appreciate it.

"Yes, you still need to seal it with a solvent based primer."

Will certainly seal my water stain, as you suggested.

But, would like to learn a bit more, please.

If this brownish ceiling water stain is completely dry by now, why is it still necessary to seal it first prior to overpainting it with regular latex ?

I guess the stain is probably iron oxide due to the brown color.
Is this correct, or is the color due to something else ?

So, if it is iron oxide, that even if dry, will still come thru ?
How can it ?

Thanks again,
Bob
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Basic Water Stain Question, Please
Hello,

Very basic question:

A totally dried up interior ceiling brownish water stain from years ago:

Still necessary to "seal it", or just paint over with latex paint ?

Thanks,
Bob

marksr marksr is online now

Yes, you still need to seal it with a solvent based primer.
__________________

 

Personally, I don't know what makes a water stain brown. However, it stands to reason that a water stain is... drum roll please... water-soluable. That means that if you get it wet again (with water), it will soak right through to your topcoat.

SirWired

 

Sirwired's answer is probably better than mine - I don't know why, just that water stains will bleed thru latex paint/primer. Obviously the stain needs to be dry before any solvent based coating will adhere well. Doesn't matter if the stain has been dry for a day or years - it still needs to be sealed!