peeling paint


  #1  
Old 02-19-07, 07:01 PM
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Unhappy peeling paint

I have a problem that keeps coming back every few months, it's paint pealing on the ceiling of my shower/bathtub area.
My shower/bathtub area is the size of a normal tub, the area has a archway type opening to the tub with a shower curtain and not glass doors.
I have a exhaust fan/light from home depot that is mounted in the center of the ceiling for steam from hot showers.
We always run the fan for several minutes after a shower.
I have scraped all the pealing paint off and dryed it with a hairdryer and not allow anyone to shower for several days while i scrape and prime and repaint the ceiling, but it always comes back.
Can i paint deck sealant over the paint after it's dry to seal out moisture from cracking my paint?
This is driving me crazy and right now thats not a long drive,lol.
Help !!!
 
  #2  
Old 02-20-07, 08:11 AM
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What kind of paint are you using? brand and type

Deck sealant wouldn't be a good idea!

Proper paint and prep should fix it. Obviously you will need to scrape and sand off any failing paint. Followed by a good solvent based primer and bath enamel - maybe Zinnsers perma white.

Where is the exhaust fan located? In or outside of the shower area? I'm sure the arch would prevent the fan from being as effective if it is outside of the shower enclosure.
 
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Old 02-20-07, 06:02 PM
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I use Olympic premium kitchen and bath 100% acrylic semi gloss paint.
I forgot what primer/sealer i used .

The exhaust fan is over the tub area in the center of the ceiling.

I have scraped and sanded the area several times before and didn't allow anyone to shower for a week while i did the paint and to allow time for the paint to dry for a few days.

But it always comes back after a few months of hot showers.

Why is a sealant a bad idea?
 
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Old 02-20-07, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by wwc
Why is a sealant a bad idea?
It won't stick upside down, and it won't sink into the paint
It needs open pores of reasonably rough sanded decking
 
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Old 02-21-07, 05:11 PM
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oh well ,the sealer was an idea. I figured a light coat would stick and seal out moisture.
 
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Old 02-21-07, 06:01 PM
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Does it peal back all the way to the drywall?
 
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Old 02-22-07, 05:06 PM
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pretty much, I would say yes.
 
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Old 02-22-07, 05:41 PM
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I'd start with a good solvent based primer - after all the loose is removed, including any residue.
 
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Old 02-22-07, 06:18 PM
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It's not that "waxy" drywall they used in bathrooms decades ago is it?
Or is it more like paper (regular drywall)?
 
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Old 02-23-07, 06:05 PM
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Unhappy

it's regular paper drywall.
I have used good name brand primer several times now but it always happens again, and the paint starts peeling .
it seems to come back on one side more than the other first, maybe the ceiling isn't level and moisture accumalates there first, i don't know.
 
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Old 02-23-07, 06:11 PM
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Where does the exhaust fan vent to?

What's above the bathroom? Attic, second floor?

Sorry to ask so many questions, but it really shouldn't be doing that
And as you may have guessed by now, there's not many "reasons" left
 
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Old 02-23-07, 06:41 PM
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The fan vents to a hose leading through my attic which is above the bathrom ceiling ( no second floor ) to a through the roof vent.
The fan hose is insulated as well because my attic is unfinished but has insulation on the floor between the ceiling joice's
 
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Old 02-23-07, 07:24 PM
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Wow...curiouser and curiouser...

Could you just look under some insulation over the bath just to make make sure it's not moisture from above please?

Just to be absolutely sure

Then it's definitely time for a good sanding, a serious primer, and some super sticky humidity resistant paint

You know the drill
Scrape of anything loose
Feather sand anything that needs it
Clean it well....real well
Got a dry-type swiffer? They work great
Do not rely on (just) a vacuum or wet rag

For primer I'd recommend Zinsser's Bullseye 1-2-3
I'd like to use an oil, but I am worried about moisture coming from above the bathroom
The Bullseye is very adhesive, and that's what we need here
It's a superb bonding primer
I'd recommend Zinsser's Perma-White (can be tinted light, pastel, or some mediums) for paint
Two coats
It says it's self-priming, and that's true
But you should still use the 1-2-3
It'll be that much more stuck

If you do that, and it still fails, your house is possessed



j/k
But if that fails, the drywall is so contaminated with something, nothing will stick to it
If that's the case, re-rocking is the answer
 
 

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