Painting hardwood flooring

I saw a picture in a home magazine showing a floor that had been stained to look like wood inlay. I would like to do that to our foyer. It's maple.

I have tried test pieces but everything bleeds. Do to our move in date, I sealed it with two coats of poly for now.

I am prepared to sand it down to do the work. Where can I find out how to do this. I'm a good painter, I just need to know what materials and methods.

Anybody?

Pat

 

Welcome to the foums Pat

Not sure I understand - can you explain further?

If you are wanting to paint art work on the floor it is usually done after the first couple of coats of poly and then a couple of coats of poly over top of it to protect it. If you wish to stain boards a different color in the middle of a board - that will be difficult, maybe cutting a small groove where the stain changes might help.

mark

 

By bleed, I mean I cannot achieve a clean line. It is a 4 shade pattern I would like to use. When I put down a stain it bleeds past my line.
If I put a coat of poly down first, the stain sits on top and wipes right off. I know that this photo is not a true inlay floor because you can see the woodgrain go through two different colors. It's definitly stained or painted.

Pat

 

I don't think I've ever tried to stain the same piece of wood 2 different colors. I think cutting a small groove at the transfer point will allow you to stain one side 1 color and the other side another but I've never done so.

It may be that the inlay design was faux painted over poly.

Sorry I can't be of more help, hopefully one of our other members can assist you.

 

There are many websites that provide instructions for stenciling and painting on hardwood floors and discuss the paints used. Paint is usually applied over at least one coat of poly which seals the wood and then the finishing process is continued.

 

At this point I think your battle is now over. Once sealed with poly, it will be very difficult to get the wood (even sanded) to accept a stain evenly.

Your best bet would just be to lay out tape (go with 3M "delicate" surfaces...its blue, and VERY smooth) in the inlay pattern you want. Do this after you lightly sand the floor. Be sure to remove all sanding dust with a damp rag (use a bit of thinner, not water). Then get 4 quarts of poly, and have each one tinted to approximate the color inlay you want. Put on 1 thin coat in the areas you want.

This is going to be a very time consuming and tedious job. Wait about 15 minutes and pull tape up. Wait 24 hours and tape a new area for next color. Do this procedure untill all colors are laid down. Wait 24 hours and then apply 1 final CLEAR coat over your new "inlay". By applying over the existing poly, but with tinted topcoat you will maintain the grain look. The final topcoat will help preserve it as a 'wear' layer.

I would examine closely each year to make sure it is holding up. A light sanding, and recoat (of the clearcoat) each year may make sense depending upon wear, and exposure to sunlight. Both will destroy finish if not maintained.

Good Luck!

 

Water-base poly is nonyellowing and should not be affected by sunlight. All woods do change color and acquire a patina due to exposure to light. The only way to change this would be to sand down to raw wood again and refinish. The patina is actually a desirable natural characteristic of hardwood floorng. With proper care and maintenance, you should not have to recoat the floor unless high traffic and wear require it. This is typically done every several years in a high traffic household. With proper care and maintenance, a good floor finish should last many years.

 

However, WB poly is incompatible with Solvent Poly undercoat. Also, I would be hesitant to use WB poly in an entryway.

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE WB poly, but I don't think this would be a proper solution to the problem at hand.

As far as yellowing goes, if the stain is not a white stain, the yellowing kinda 'mellows' the look of the finish.

The OP has enough on his plate right now, and I don't think mixing finishes would be advisable.