Joint Compound and Paint


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Old 03-20-07, 11:11 AM
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Joint Compound and Paint

I have done some wall repairs about three feet by two feet in size. My final paint will be with an oil base paint. Question is do I use a latex or a oil base primer before the final paint is applied? Thanks
 
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Old 03-20-07, 02:17 PM
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Latex primer is fine for under oil enamel, oil primer will also work. I'd recomend using a good latex enamel undercoater.

Is there a reason you are using oil base for a top coat.
 
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Old 03-20-07, 09:54 PM
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I am using oil as my final coat since that is what is there now and it is a patching job of one wall and I have the paint left over from when it was originally done.

Here is a side remark: I also find the new paints in New Jersey are impossible to brush (oil or latex) since they dry to fast and lack sufficient time to do a good job. You have to use a roller and that just doesn't look good on wood trim or any door so I am lost without a good paint any more.
 
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Old 03-21-07, 08:22 PM
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Some conditioner may help with that
Look for penetrol (for oil) and floetrol (for latex) at your local paint store

And remember to stick with premium Ben Moore or Sherwin Williams products
They tend to give the best drying times (not too fast), add some conditioner and that's as good as it gets
 
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Old 03-21-07, 08:38 PM
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Thanks I tried the Penetrol and the Floetrol and your right that is as good as it gets, not very good. I also tried the Benjamin Moore with it and it still sets to fast to brush on. I will try the Sherwin Williams and see how that goes with brushing. Both of those paints are like $45 per gallon which I don't know it they are worth it with Behr at $22 per gallon and Lowe's paint at about $29 per gallon. They go on and end up looking as good as the Benjamin Moore.
 
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Old 03-21-07, 08:51 PM
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Both Behr and AmTrad (Valspar-Lowes) dry faster then BM and SW

A few weeks ago I painted BM Impervo over Behr on trim (same color), and repainted trim with Behr on another job (again, same color repaint) the next day
It was a good comparison

The difference in quality in the dried paint was very apparent from 10 feet away

The homeowner couldn't believe the difference the same color BM made over the Behr
 
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Old 03-21-07, 09:47 PM
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Very interesting. The real problem occurs when you paint a flat door and try to brush it. It is almost impossible to prevent dragging with anyone's paint since they did away with the original formula. I always used oil and you had plenty of working time but no more. It's like all paints are for rolling and not brushing. If you know any tricks to solve this let me know. Thanks
 
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Old 03-21-07, 10:36 PM
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Any tricks?
Hmmmm....
How long does it take you to do a door?
I don't really run into the problem, but it takes me 7 - 14 minutes to do a six panel door
Much less for a flat one

If it takes you 1/2 hour or longer I could see that being a problem
 
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Old 03-21-07, 10:37 PM
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What size brush?
I'd use a 3 inch minimum
 
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Old 03-22-07, 06:22 AM
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Brushing a flat panel door with a 2" brush takes me 15 minutes but with the new paint after 2 minutes you can't touch the paint that was put on 2 minutes ago or you start to get a drag. Is it better to have the paint as thick or as thin as you can get when laying in on? I try to go about two brush widths wide and go from top to bottom. By the time I get the second brush load half way down the door the first stroke is drying and may drag. Am I doing something wrong? I also thin the paint a little which seems to help.
 
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Old 03-22-07, 07:16 AM
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Get a bigger brush! I wouldn't want to paint any door other than a french door with less than a 3" brush. I'd use a 4" on a flat door.
 
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Old 03-22-07, 07:32 AM
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Yeah, it doesn't sound like your really doing anything wrong per say, but I'd use a 4" for your doors, that will help
 
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Old 03-22-07, 07:49 AM
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If you have a bunch of doors to enamel you can take a roller and make quick work of it - just be sure to 'tip off' the paint with a brush to remove the roller stipple
 
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Old 03-22-07, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
If you have a bunch of doors to enamel you can take a roller and make quick work of it - just be sure to 'tip off' the paint with a brush to remove the roller stipple
Do you tip off when all done the door or as you go?

The larger brush may help but most of my drags occur half way down the door (midway between top and bottom). It takes two brush loads to make a stroke from top to bottom and where they join is my problem?
 
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Old 03-22-07, 09:38 AM
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Roll one side of the door and then tip it off before it has time to set up. Make sure the roller never touches the floor or drop If the door knob is on, run a piece of tape around the edge of the knob - this will help to speed up your brushing.
 
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Old 03-22-07, 10:58 AM
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I tried to paint trim this weekend. Its wide, about 5", and I got it in 12' sections. I used SW ProClassic WB. I really dont like painting with a brush, it cramps my hand up terrible for some reason.

Painted about 1/2 of 1 board, and about gave up. Finished board, and pulled out the airless. Laid down plastic, covered up what needed to be covered, lined up trim (6 pieces).

Spray time was less than 2 minutes. Cleanup and setup were about 30 min total. And the trim looks like it came from the shop.

If OP can gain access to a sprayer, results would be very good. Prep time would be more, but it would give a more professional look.
 
 

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