Painting over stained moulding


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Old 05-08-07, 07:01 AM
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Painting over stained moulding

I'm remodeling my kitchen and am puting in white wainscoting on the walls and would like to just paint the existing stained chair rail and base board rather than purchasing new ones. Can I paint over stained moulding? What would the proper primer be to use? Would I have to sand first? Thanks
 
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Old 05-08-07, 07:32 AM
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Assuming the moulding is polyurethaned,you'd lightly sand to scuff surface,clean well removing sanding residue etc,prime with oil based primer of good quality,top coat with good quality latex enamel.If not polyurethaned basically same instructions.Less sanding needed.Two coats of top coat possibly needed,you'll know as you observe coverage etc.Use better quality tools for better finish and less work.Buy your supplies where you can get advise and instruction from qualified help which is not at a big box store.
 
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Old 05-08-07, 09:22 AM
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Yep, pretty much what he said. Plan on 3 coats, the primer coat won't exactly cover but it doesn't hurt if you can see the stain thru the primer as long as all the wood has been primed. Then 2 coats of enamel - oil base, latex or waterborne - any one will work fine. I prefer the waterborne
 
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Old 05-08-07, 02:50 PM
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Thanks guys, that's pretty much what I thought I'd need to do. On another note, should I use oil based primer on walls that previously had wallpaper on them? I thought I read that somewhere but wasn't sure. Thanks
 
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Old 05-08-07, 03:01 PM
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Only if you didn't remove all the wallpaper adhesive. If the wall is clean no oil primer is needed.
 
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Old 05-09-07, 06:05 AM
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It's pretty clean but it looks like I can see some if the light hits it right. I scrubbed it pretty good though. Wallpaper sucks!
 
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Old 05-09-07, 08:15 PM
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Hey bake, just my two cents on your woodwork. I've had a lot of success using two coats of a shellac based product called BIN. Two coats of primer isn't always necessary if you have light color woods, but the drying time on shellac is very fast an lets you do a lot more in a day.

For the finish product, I like using oil based enamels. They are a little more intimidating than something you can clean with water, but the results are worth it to me. Good luck.

As for the wallpaper glue, if you think all the glue is off, I would put a coat of latex paint on it, let it dry COMPLETELY, then make sure everything looks okay. If you get bubbles, you can just sand them down, prime only that spot with oil primer and reroll with latex. Hope that helps.
 

Last edited by ballistic14; 05-09-07 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Wallpaper Info
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Old 05-10-07, 04:49 AM
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" I've had a lot of success using two coats of a shellac based product called BIN."


Zinnser's BIN like any pigmented shellac dries super fast, the only drawback is it also has a super mean odor. Personally unless wearing a respirator I prefer not to go back into the room until it has had a chance to air out.
 
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Old 05-10-07, 04:21 PM
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That's true, it does have quite a bit of an odor if you're not used to it. Nice thing is, once it's done drying you shouldn't smell it a whole lot.
 
 

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