painting over flat latex


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Old 05-23-07, 05:11 PM
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painting over flat latex

HELP !! I have been painting over flat latex painted walls using an interior satin enamel paint. The results are terrible, there are paint lines and patches that don't blend. Even after a second coat it does not help. Are there any suggestions on why this is happening and how to correct it?
 
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Old 05-23-07, 05:40 PM
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What shape was the wall in before you started painting? What brand of paint and where'd you buy it?
 
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Old 05-23-07, 06:07 PM
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also what type of roller cover are you using? are you using it correctly?
Satin isn't as forgiving as flat, you need to apply the paint evenly. Don't try to squeeze every drop of paint out of the roller!
 
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Old 05-23-07, 06:11 PM
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condition of walls

the house is brand new construction and one coat of a flat latex from ace hardware is currently on the walls. the paint that we are using to cover is behr from home depot interior satin enamel 100% acrylic latex. it almost seems like the wall is so dry that it sucking the paint dry at random locations unevenly.
 
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Old 05-23-07, 06:15 PM
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I've tried light coats and heavier coats with a 3/8" nap roller cover (contractor grade).
 
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Old 05-23-07, 06:34 PM
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I'm not real familiar with Ace paints.. but it isn't uncommon for new homes to have a substandard paint job - low quality paints.

Part of your problem is your choice of paint. Typically the paints sold at big box stores are of a lesser quality [price driven] The paint isn't as heavy bodied as it should be making it harder to apply and cover. The behr enamel should have sealed up the drywall ok, so I'd suggest going to a real paint store [like SWP, Ben Moore, etc] and buying a better grade of paint. You would be pleasently suprised at the difference.

An 1/2" nap may make application easier although 3/8" should be ok on slick walls. I'm not overly fond of contractor grade covers. I typically spend close to $10 for a cover. They can be cleaned and used many times.

You need to make sure that the lines in the paint job won't affect the next coat. If you can feel a ridge with your fingers it will need to be sanded. When you roll, keep your roller full of paint, one swipe up and down the wall is plenty far to go. After you have applied paint on several linear feet of wall, take your roller [almost out of paint] and lightly back roll over your paint to lightly smooth it out.
 
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Old 05-24-07, 03:25 AM
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Thank You for the help, I will try your suggestions in the next room.
 
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Old 05-24-07, 07:42 AM
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The flat builder's paint may not be helping
But if you can wipe your hand on it, and you don't get a white smudge on your hand, it's not extreme enough to warrant a specialized primer

IMO it's more likely the new paint and the roller you are using
Neither is really something I'd recommend under perfect conditions (in fact I'd NOT recommend either under any conditions), add a little "less than perfect" (like builder's paint) and your doomed

A premium paint from Ben Moore, Sherwin Williams, or Pittsburgh (they all make contractor's/builder's paint too, so don't get that-get the good stuff), and a good roller like a wool, 50/50 poly/wool, or at minimum a Purdy White Dove (I'd recommend 1/2" nap, but some DIYers prefer a 3/8"), and you should be good
Carefully applied the paint-lay the paint down, don't squoosh it out
Alway finish with up/down strokes
And roll the wall you just cut in with a brush, don't cut in the whole room, then roll it
Do one wall at a time
 
 

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