Reduce paint gloss before painting
#1
05-31-07, 06:09 AM
Reduce paint gloss before painting
Is it possible to reduce paint gloss while it’s still in the can? Elsewhere on the Internet I read that if you let latex paint sit and separate in the can, you can scoop off some of the top liquid to reduce the gloss. I have not seen this method mentioned anywhere else. Comments?
#2
05-31-07, 06:32 AM
Member
It is best to purchase the desired paint sheen. It is the amount of resin in paint that determines sheen. You can purchase flat paint. Satin and semi-gloss offer more scrubabilty than flat, and are desired for wood trim and areas that require washing. Flat is porous and absorbent of oils and soils.
#4
05-31-07, 04:07 PM
I agree with the others - it's best to buy the paint in the desired sheen. If the paint has already been purchaced you could add a little flat latex to the latex enamel to lessen the sheen - IT MUST BE MIXED WELL!!! and the sheen might never be duplicated - for touch up.
#5
06-01-07, 01:30 PM
Member
You have not seen that method elsewhere because it's a bunch of hooey/hogwash/baloney
Don't believe everything you see on the internet
...except what we tell you, of course ;-)
Don't believe everything you see on the internet
...except what we tell you, of course ;-)
#6
06-02-07, 03:20 AM
Hello,
"You have not seen that method elsewhere because it's a bunch of hooey/hogwash/baloney"
Actually, there is a shred of truth to it. The resins/vehicle/solids will seperate into layers - eventually.
I've opened factory sealed cans (latex/epoxy enamel) that were ~ 15 years old, and they had seperated into definate layers.
(in the store I worked in we had something on the order of 2,000 gallons of the stuff sitting in the warehouse that we couldn't dispose of - - it was winter time & there was little to nothing else for me to do except "play" with the material - - and/or rebuild the seals on the tint machine - uggh! - sucks to be low man on the totem pole sometimes).
I found that by carefully removing the different "layers", I could alter the sheen, the drying time, rate of coverage and all sorts of things.
I could take the sheen up to almost 90 degrees - brilliant high gloss - by taking a bunch of stuff from a bunch of cans and mixing it all into one can.
I could take the sheen down to almost dead flat too.
It's way risky though. There's no way of knowing what the liquid is that's being removed. I ended up with quite a few brush outs that might still be tacky to this day since they never dried. ... & that was ~ 35 years ago.
Way better to simply buy the right sheen to begin with. Next best would be intermixing some flat & keeping meticulous records of the ratio used.
All the way down would be playing "household chemist", unless you have a lot of material, time on your hands and a place to put the stuff on that you don't care about.
"You have not seen that method elsewhere because it's a bunch of hooey/hogwash/baloney"
Actually, there is a shred of truth to it. The resins/vehicle/solids will seperate into layers - eventually.
I've opened factory sealed cans (latex/epoxy enamel) that were ~ 15 years old, and they had seperated into definate layers.
(in the store I worked in we had something on the order of 2,000 gallons of the stuff sitting in the warehouse that we couldn't dispose of - - it was winter time & there was little to nothing else for me to do except "play" with the material - - and/or rebuild the seals on the tint machine - uggh! - sucks to be low man on the totem pole sometimes).
I found that by carefully removing the different "layers", I could alter the sheen, the drying time, rate of coverage and all sorts of things.
I could take the sheen up to almost 90 degrees - brilliant high gloss - by taking a bunch of stuff from a bunch of cans and mixing it all into one can.
I could take the sheen down to almost dead flat too.
It's way risky though. There's no way of knowing what the liquid is that's being removed. I ended up with quite a few brush outs that might still be tacky to this day since they never dried. ... & that was ~ 35 years ago.
Way better to simply buy the right sheen to begin with. Next best would be intermixing some flat & keeping meticulous records of the ratio used.
All the way down would be playing "household chemist", unless you have a lot of material, time on your hands and a place to put the stuff on that you don't care about.
#8
05-26-09, 04:59 PM
Hi Ken (or anyone wanting to do this)
Try mixing talcum powder in the paint to get the effect you want. I used that years ago with gloss oil based enamel. Worked brilliantly.
The world's full of waste. Why buy new paint when you already have the colour you need? Worth a test, at least. Of course you'll have to experiment with proportions, and mix well, but what have you go to lose?
Try mixing talcum powder in the paint to get the effect you want. I used that years ago with gloss oil based enamel. Worked brilliantly.
The world's full of waste. Why buy new paint when you already have the colour you need? Worth a test, at least. Of course you'll have to experiment with proportions, and mix well, but what have you go to lose?
