High Gloss Paint
#1
08-08-07, 07:35 PM
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High Gloss Paint
Hello,
NOTE: I am new to DIY site and this forum - Please excuse my errors and omissions.
I am painting the bathroom in my very old mobile home.
The wood trim has been painted, I have primered it, and painted it today with high gloss paint.
Problem: the high gloss dried - but has brush stroke markes and other painting marks in it.... What should I have used to get the 'glass' smooth finish? Brush, pad, roller, etc????
( I have more trim to paint and would like to get that glass look.)
painter-n-training,
Jen
NOTE: I am new to DIY site and this forum - Please excuse my errors and omissions.
I am painting the bathroom in my very old mobile home.
The wood trim has been painted, I have primered it, and painted it today with high gloss paint.
Problem: the high gloss dried - but has brush stroke markes and other painting marks in it.... What should I have used to get the 'glass' smooth finish? Brush, pad, roller, etc????
( I have more trim to paint and would like to get that glass look.)
painter-n-training,
Jen
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#2
08-08-07, 07:43 PM
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I've always found higher gloss paints to be bad for showing brush marks - presumably because they show any sort of defect more readily than the flatter paints. However, using a top quality brush made for your type of paint (poly/nylon for latex, bristle for alkyd) and good quality paint is very important. Top quality paint has better leveling characteristics meaning that your brush marks should "flow out" as the paint dries.
#3
08-09-07, 06:08 AM
The only way to get absolutely NO brush marks is to not use a brush. That isn't to say you can't get a nice job with minimal brush marks. As mentioned above using the correct brush with a quality enamel helps a lot. Utilizing good brushing skill also helps. A roller may give you a better looking finish but it will leave a small amount of orange peel.
btw - welcome to the forums Jen
btw - welcome to the forums Jen
#4
08-09-07, 06:56 AM
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I learned a few years back about using quality paint and it can't be stressed enough. With all the labor we put into preparation, its worth a few bucks extra to get good quality. Go to a paint store, not a big box store. They are invaluable for information and equipment.
#5
08-09-07, 07:51 AM
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Some tips:
1) Don't skimp on paint quality. For my glossy trim, I use Sherwin Williams ProClassic Waterbourne Enamel. And yes, it is often $40/gal. (Their "preferred customer program" can help with this. Just ask for it, and you won't pay list.) Nothing you can buy at Home Depot or Lowe's is going to work, no matter how much money you will "save".
2) Don't go back to "fix" spots. Once you have laid the paint on, don't touch it again until it is time for a full recoat. Not even a couple of minutes later. All you will do is dig brush marks into your paint or cause sagging.
3) Work continuously. It is vital to maintain a wet edge with high gloss paints. Don't slop it on, but don't take a break in the middle of a piece either.
4) You may find it useful to add a product such as XIM Latex Extender to the paint to extend the work time. Ask behind the counter for help and advice.
5) Nothing but top-quality brushes. It never pays to skimp there.
6) Scuff-sand the trim, tack, prime with quality primer, scuff-sand again, tack, and you should be ready to go. Quality prep is always a good thing.
These steps will not eliminate brush marks, but it will reduce them.
BTW, my experience with ProClassic is that it looks extremely terrible wet, but levels out nicely during the drying process. And I learned the hard way about not going back to touch up. I messed up so badly on one door I had to sand part of it all the way back down to primer.
The two major waterbourne enamels on the market, Impervo from BM and ProClassic from SW, behave differently from regular paint and each other. They take some getting used to, so you may want to "practice" on a room where the final finished appearance is not the end of the world, such as a rec room or basement.
SirWired
1) Don't skimp on paint quality. For my glossy trim, I use Sherwin Williams ProClassic Waterbourne Enamel. And yes, it is often $40/gal. (Their "preferred customer program" can help with this. Just ask for it, and you won't pay list.) Nothing you can buy at Home Depot or Lowe's is going to work, no matter how much money you will "save".
2) Don't go back to "fix" spots. Once you have laid the paint on, don't touch it again until it is time for a full recoat. Not even a couple of minutes later. All you will do is dig brush marks into your paint or cause sagging.
3) Work continuously. It is vital to maintain a wet edge with high gloss paints. Don't slop it on, but don't take a break in the middle of a piece either.
4) You may find it useful to add a product such as XIM Latex Extender to the paint to extend the work time. Ask behind the counter for help and advice.
5) Nothing but top-quality brushes. It never pays to skimp there.
6) Scuff-sand the trim, tack, prime with quality primer, scuff-sand again, tack, and you should be ready to go. Quality prep is always a good thing.
These steps will not eliminate brush marks, but it will reduce them.
BTW, my experience with ProClassic is that it looks extremely terrible wet, but levels out nicely during the drying process. And I learned the hard way about not going back to touch up. I messed up so badly on one door I had to sand part of it all the way back down to primer.
The two major waterbourne enamels on the market, Impervo from BM and ProClassic from SW, behave differently from regular paint and each other. They take some getting used to, so you may want to "practice" on a room where the final finished appearance is not the end of the world, such as a rec room or basement.
SirWired
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