Paint Cast iron Pipe?
#1
03-08-08, 08:08 AM
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Paint Cast iron Pipe?
Hi guys,
Didnt know where to look for the correct information. I have a4" cast iron pipe that I use to hold my telescope. Was just looking to find out what to use to paint the cast iron pipe. Only want to do this once. thanks for the help I added a pic.
steve
Didnt know where to look for the correct information. I have a4" cast iron pipe that I use to hold my telescope. Was just looking to find out what to use to paint the cast iron pipe. Only want to do this once. thanks for the help I added a pic.
steve
#2
03-08-08, 08:30 AM
Any kind of paint should work. I've had cast iron pipes painted with normal latex paint which held up fine (indoors). I'd probably go with a metal spray paint (rustolium or similiar). You'd probably want to wash it down with a sponge and/or take a wire brush to it. It looks quite dirty from the pic, but that could just be the pic.
Do we get to see the telescope mounted to it too?
Do we get to see the telescope mounted to it too?
#3
03-08-08, 10:07 AM
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Here is an image before I took everything off. Thanks for the info. Its an 8" Meade with a little scope on top. Great for taking picutres.
Steve
Steve
Last edited by GregH; 03-09-08 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Resize image
#4
03-08-08, 10:14 AM
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I would use an oil based metal primer. I have never had much luck with latex primers over metal. Rust inevitably shows through. The latest was an interior steel gas line using a latex based metal primer. I have even had problems with the latex based stain sealers.
Best shot is to use an oil based primer. There are some good ones out there in the automobile section of a diy store or at a place like autozone. Some are rust stabilizing paints.
Believe me, painting over a bad primer is not fun.
Jim
Best shot is to use an oil based primer. There are some good ones out there in the automobile section of a diy store or at a place like autozone. Some are rust stabilizing paints.
Believe me, painting over a bad primer is not fun.
Jim
#5
03-08-08, 10:52 AM
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thanks Jim! One last question. I know I have to clean the pipe before I do anything. Just how clean does it have to be. As you can see in the photo its pretty bad. Should I use a grinder or something like that?
thanks
steve
thanks
steve
#6
03-08-08, 01:15 PM
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There are primers that actually stabilize rust. One is clear and turns black as it dry and form a good base for painting. The other is an etching, rust inhibiting primer. I used both them primers on an old commercial railing that was in pretty bad shape. I wire brushed it and sanded the bad spots, primed everything with rattle cans before finishing off with a two part epoxy using a DeVilbis automotive gun.
After two years it still looks good and everything seems to have bonded well. Eastwood.com shows these primers but the ones I used worked quite well and were available at local automotive stores. They cost about $5 to $7 per rattle can. You can also find some pretty good finishes in rattle cans. Since your surface is pretty small you would touch it up every few years if the paint fades.
Jim
After two years it still looks good and everything seems to have bonded well. Eastwood.com shows these primers but the ones I used worked quite well and were available at local automotive stores. They cost about $5 to $7 per rattle can. You can also find some pretty good finishes in rattle cans. Since your surface is pretty small you would touch it up every few years if the paint fades.
Jim
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03-08-08, 02:02 PM
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Good luck and let me know how it comes out. Just remember to stay away from the cheap paints. They don't have much solids in them. Cast iron does not rust as badly as regular steel and you should have good luck with it.
Jim
Jim
#9
03-08-08, 02:12 PM
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Clean with a wire brush and/or scraper. Use mineral spirits and wash down the pole. Get a quart of Kilzs oil based primer. I use Sherwin Williams paints. They have a "Industrial Maintenance Coating" oil gloss paint that should work as far as doing this "once". Use a 4 inch roller and apply two coats waiting at least 6 hours between coats assuming warm temperatures.
#10
03-08-08, 05:14 PM
SWP's industrial enamel would also be my 1st choice for a top coat but I doubt in comes in a size less than 1 gallon. Rustoleum would be a decent choice in a smaller container.
1 coat primer and 2 coats finish [sand lightly between coats] will give the best results.
The main thing is to use solvent based coatings - latex just doesn't cut it for this type of job.
1 coat primer and 2 coats finish [sand lightly between coats] will give the best results.
The main thing is to use solvent based coatings - latex just doesn't cut it for this type of job.
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03-08-08, 05:30 PM
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marksr,
I agree with you about the latex primers. I used Rustoleum's industrial enamel in the can (not the aerosol) and was not impressed. It seemed kind of a lightweight and dried extremely slowly.
The Sherwin Williams enamel is much better.
Jim
I agree with you about the latex primers. I used Rustoleum's industrial enamel in the can (not the aerosol) and was not impressed. It seemed kind of a lightweight and dried extremely slowly.
The Sherwin Williams enamel is much better.
Jim
#13
03-09-08, 07:14 AM
I doubt that the 'all surface enamel' is the same as their industrial enamel. Last summer I bought a gallon of porch and deck enamel and they mixed it in all surface enamel. they told me it was the same thing as P&D enamel. All I know is that I could have saved about $2 if I had asked for industrial enamel.
I do agree that the all surface enamel would be a good choice for Steve's project.
I do agree that the all surface enamel would be a good choice for Steve's project.
#14
03-11-08, 02:40 PM
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Hi Mark,
Thanks for the info. GOt one more question for you. I primed the pole with 2 coats of red primer I got at Lowes. Rustoleum. I also bought bright orange rustoleum paint. Flyers fans here in Philly. Anyway I sprayed the pole with the orange paint and it did NOT stick at all. Just dripped down. any ideas?? The primer stuck just fine. Doesnt look that bad. here is a pic of it.
Thanks for the info. GOt one more question for you. I primed the pole with 2 coats of red primer I got at Lowes. Rustoleum. I also bought bright orange rustoleum paint. Flyers fans here in Philly. Anyway I sprayed the pole with the orange paint and it did NOT stick at all. Just dripped down. any ideas?? The primer stuck just fine. Doesnt look that bad. here is a pic of it.
#16
03-11-08, 06:04 PM
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Use a quart can of paint. The spray cans have a lot of different solvents that can interact on the down side. At the big box stores I do not know what to recommend, but you should have great success at Sherwin Williams for the all surface enamel or go to the local paint store for an oil base paint.
#18
03-12-08, 04:45 AM
As nagra noted it is hard to get enough material applied from a spray can. There are more solvents in the aersol can than there is paint 
Given the texture of the pipe, a brushed on coat of paint [using a natural bristle brush] won't be overly noticable. Sanding between coats will help the minimize brush marks and promote good adhesion.
Given the texture of the pipe, a brushed on coat of paint [using a natural bristle brush] won't be overly noticable. Sanding between coats will help the minimize brush marks and promote good adhesion.
#19
03-12-08, 08:02 AM
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Jim,
Yes the pipe is filled with concrete. Below it is also all concrete. About 6 80lb bags. 4ft deep. That mother is not moving. I also have hat 3/4" threaded rod thats 12" long in the concrete about 11". Once I get the scope aligned properly I'll send you guys a few images.
Mark,
thanks for the info. I'll go to Sherman today and see what they got.
Yes the pipe is filled with concrete. Below it is also all concrete. About 6 80lb bags. 4ft deep. That mother is not moving. I also have hat 3/4" threaded rod thats 12" long in the concrete about 11". Once I get the scope aligned properly I'll send you guys a few images.
Mark,
thanks for the info. I'll go to Sherman today and see what they got.
