looking for recommendations for painting a fence
#41
03-16-08, 08:51 AM
I don't trust latex primers to seal the tannins, even with 2 coats of latex primer, they can still bleed thru. If you read the fine print on the latex primers you will see where they recomend using oil primer if the tannins bleed thru the latex primer.
I've never had any issues with redwood or cedar bleed thru with oil base primers. When spraying it is always best to back brush [or roll] which helps to work the paint into the substrate.
I've never had any issues with redwood or cedar bleed thru with oil base primers. When spraying it is always best to back brush [or roll] which helps to work the paint into the substrate.
#43
03-16-08, 09:18 AM
If I'm not mistaken, oil base kilz is for interior use and only to be used in limitted areas on the exterior. I would suggest a good oil base wood primer. At SWP that would be the A-100 alkyld exterior wood primer.
The sheen is pretty much a personal choice thing. I'm kind of partial to satin [but that's me
] Basically any sheen will do a good job although the flatter the sheen the harder it might be to keep it clean.
The sheen is pretty much a personal choice thing. I'm kind of partial to satin [but that's me
] Basically any sheen will do a good job although the flatter the sheen the harder it might be to keep it clean.
#46
03-17-08, 08:58 AM
How about this one:
http://www.zinnser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=78
followed by two coats of a satin latex exterior paint?
http://www.zinnser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=78
followed by two coats of a satin latex exterior paint?
#48
03-29-08, 05:39 PM
I'm in the process of doing the surface prep, and found that two or three of the redwood pickets have sap coming out of a split in the wood. The sap can be scraped off, but can I simply fill the 'split' with wood filler, and then prime/paint?
Is this 'tannin bleed', or something else? Just wondering how I should handle it. It is not really feasible at this point to replace the pickets, since the top rail is trimmed out on both sides.
Thanks all!
Matt
Is this 'tannin bleed', or something else? Just wondering how I should handle it. It is not really feasible at this point to replace the pickets, since the top rail is trimmed out on both sides.
Thanks all!
Matt
#49
03-30-08, 06:05 AM
No, tannin beeding is a stain that will discolor paint. Not a whole lot you can do about sap other than scrape it off and pray there is no more. If no more sap comes up, filling the gap will work but if it bleeds more sap.........
#51
04-07-08, 08:58 AM
Ok last questions:
I’ve scraped the sap that has dripped out of some of the holes and cracks. I checked it over a period of weeks at it seems to have stopped, so I filled the holes with wood filler. I’ve also rough sanded any ragged edges to remove any large splinters.
My question concerning this is: Should I sand the entire fence? Will this ensure better penetration/adhesion of the primer and top coats? If so, what grit(s) would you recommend?
Second question is: 1 or 2 coats of primer? The primer will be oil based, with 2 satin latex top coats.
Thanks all!
Matt
I’ve scraped the sap that has dripped out of some of the holes and cracks. I checked it over a period of weeks at it seems to have stopped, so I filled the holes with wood filler. I’ve also rough sanded any ragged edges to remove any large splinters.
My question concerning this is: Should I sand the entire fence? Will this ensure better penetration/adhesion of the primer and top coats? If so, what grit(s) would you recommend?
Second question is: 1 or 2 coats of primer? The primer will be oil based, with 2 satin latex top coats.
Thanks all!
Matt
#52
04-07-08, 03:52 PM
Normally 1 coat of primer is sufficent.... but if you notice any discoloration or any thin spots, it might be a good idea to reprime those areas. I try not to get carried away sanding on the exterior but a quick scuff sand never hurts - especially along the top rail
