Bleed through after final faux glaze coat

I've read other posts and am wondering what in the heck I can do about this.

I've nearly completed a faux painting project. I was going to add a slightly different final coat of glaze today and noticed some bleed through. I suspect there is some enzymatic reaction in the glazing process that is eating through cured primer and two coats of paint. Although dry in an hour, I let the primer and each coat cure for a day. The offending bleed through was caused by a marker noting spots needing work in the replastering process.

Thoughts? Suggestions? The only thing I can think of doing is plastering over the marks and beginning again with another five layers (one primer, two coats of base, two differnt kinds of glaze); but, I wonder whether plaster will be able to block it. This cannot be spot fixed due to the glaze colors and the application process. Each wall must be redone from the beginning.

It's really dishartening. It is nearly done and otherwise looks very good. Fortunately, only half of the room needed plastering work and I know the proportions used in the glazing process. If I can't resolve this in one more effort, I'm just going to paint the walls a sold color with $20 of paint.

 

Lots of markers use a waterbase ink. The water in the primer and paint just activated the ink and transported it through to the top. Use an oilbase or shellac primer over the bleeding spots. If the spots aren't too large just get a spray can of Zinnser Coverstain.

 

Jan hit it right on the head. Without an oil-base primer, that stain will keep on bleeding through, no matter how much stuff you pile on top.

If the oil-base primer still bleeds, then you might need to bring out the thermonuclear weapon of primers, shellac-based. That is massively stinky stuff that will block any stain that can be blocked.

SirWired

 

You may also need to get rid of the marker (permanent or water-based as both can bleed through) and start using a carpenter's pencil or colored chalk to mark plaster or drywall repairs.
Brian

 

You definitely need to use the oil base primer as the others suggested. Depending on how many of these places you have on your walls you could try something first before covering all your hard work with solid paint. Once the places have been spot primed, don't go out the area more than necessary when spot priming. You didn't mention the type of faux you put on these walls, sponge, rag, marble, etc. but take the base coat and try one of two ways, take your paint brush and lightly load with some paint and using a stippling effect, work the paint out in the area as if the way clouds feather out, making sure you don't have a perfect circle or square painted out with this top coat. As you work the base out into some of the previously faux area, it should fade out, some of the faux showing thru. When you use your glaze coats, do the same, work the area repainted and blend out into the already faux area of the wall but keep in mind, feathering it out. Keep stepping away from your work and you will see that you can make it blend in once you get the hang of it. The second way is to use a very small roller instead of the paint brush and as you put the base on top of the primed areas, roll the paint out lightly as if feathering it out. By keeping it blended out it will make those places not stand out like they would if you had squares or circles. This is worth trying, if you're not pleased, then repaint it all or re-faux. Good luck.