Poly/Plastic Painting
#1
11-05-08, 07:07 AM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Poly/Plastic Painting
My boss has these 12" strips of 3/16" thick poly/vinyl/plastic, They are used as signage on the side of the building. They had vinyl lettering on them which was removed and the poly/vinyl rolled with household enamel paint x2 coats. The letter company says their letters won't stick to the rougher contour of this enamel paint.
Questions;
What's the easiest way to remove these two coats of enamel without damage to the poly/vinyl ?
Can this enamel be smooth sanded and auto enamel paint sprayed over top ?
Thanks !
Questions;
What's the easiest way to remove these two coats of enamel without damage to the poly/vinyl ?
Can this enamel be smooth sanded and auto enamel paint sprayed over top ?
Thanks !
#2
11-05-08, 10:37 AM
Auto enamels use strong solvents which might (most likely will) cause a problem if you apply them directly to the house paint.
Why don't you sand out the roller texture as you have mentioned and then recoat with the house enamel via spray application?
Why don't you sand out the roller texture as you have mentioned and then recoat with the house enamel via spray application?
#3
11-05-08, 12:50 PM
I'd also be leary of trying to apply an automotive type coating on the vinyl over the latex. If you must go this way test an area first!!!
Latex paint is more plyable than solvent based coatings and should hold up better on the vinyl. Sanding it smooth and reapplying by spray, should give good results.
Latex paint is more plyable than solvent based coatings and should hold up better on the vinyl. Sanding it smooth and reapplying by spray, should give good results.
#4
11-05-08, 03:42 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the replies Slatz and marksr,
I would like to just sand smooth and spray over but the only sprayer we have is a large contractor's airless, After painting the exterior of the building with it I know it would be over-kill on these smaller signs.
The nozzle on my automotive spray gun is too small for spraying latex, Would one of those cheapo electric airless guns work and leave a smooth surface ? Could either of you recommend one that would ?
Thanks again for your time !
I would like to just sand smooth and spray over but the only sprayer we have is a large contractor's airless, After painting the exterior of the building with it I know it would be over-kill on these smaller signs.
The nozzle on my automotive spray gun is too small for spraying latex, Would one of those cheapo electric airless guns work and leave a smooth surface ? Could either of you recommend one that would ?
Thanks again for your time !
#6
11-06-08, 03:50 AM
A cheap electric airless cup gun might do ok but most of them shoot the paint in a round pattern instea of the traditional fan. Not to mention the fact that they are just cheap [not just in price]
As suggested above, it would be better get a smaller tip to use with your airless. I'd probably use a 4-11 or 4-13 but I've got lots of spraying experience. The first # indicates size of fan [usuallly 4=8" fan,5=10",etc ] The second # is the orfice size, the larger the #, the bigger the hole = more paint. You'll need to know what type gun you have so they can sell you the correct tip. Not all tips are interchangable with all guns.
A new tip would still be cheaper than a cheap diyer quality airless cup gun
As suggested above, it would be better get a smaller tip to use with your airless. I'd probably use a 4-11 or 4-13 but I've got lots of spraying experience. The first # indicates size of fan [usuallly 4=8" fan,5=10",etc ] The second # is the orfice size, the larger the #, the bigger the hole = more paint. You'll need to know what type gun you have so they can sell you the correct tip. Not all tips are interchangable with all guns.
A new tip would still be cheaper than a cheap diyer quality airless cup gun
#7
11-06-08, 05:34 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Jan2 and marksr,
I work for a contractor's equipment rental store and this airless is in our fleet, I know the mechanics of this unit like the back of my hand but with little actual painting use I didn't think about swapping tips.
We have the following tips in stock; 211/213/215/217/219 and 221 Also; 411/417 and 517.
marksr,
You mentioned a 411/413 but you have experience doing this, Is there another tip listed above that may be easier on the diyer or another I can pick up ?
Thanks
I work for a contractor's equipment rental store and this airless is in our fleet, I know the mechanics of this unit like the back of my hand but with little actual painting use I didn't think about swapping tips.
We have the following tips in stock; 211/213/215/217/219 and 221 Also; 411/417 and 517.
marksr,
You mentioned a 411/413 but you have experience doing this, Is there another tip listed above that may be easier on the diyer or another I can pick up ?
Thanks
#8
11-07-08, 12:25 AM
Use the 211 tip. That will be the most controlable. So, start with the pressure reduced and bring it up just past the point where the tails disappear. For finish work I like a fine filter in the gun and, of course, strain the finish. If you can, practice a bit because even with a small tip it's still an airless and you'll need to move right along to avoid runs.
#9
11-07-08, 03:47 AM
Start off with the 2-11 tip, if the fan isn't big enough for you, switch to the 4-11. Hopefully these are reversible tips, if not, make sure you carefully strain the paint and have good filters.
#10
11-07-08, 09:38 AM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Everyone for the insight on this project....
Yes the tips are reversible and we also have screening socks for the paint pick-up tube.
I will get with the boss and see which way he wants to 'run' with this. :smoke:
Thanks Again !
Yes the tips are reversible and we also have screening socks for the paint pick-up tube.
I will get with the boss and see which way he wants to 'run' with this. :smoke:
Thanks Again !
#11
11-07-08, 01:38 PM
If it's the sock I'm thinking of, you need to use it to strain the paint that you are pouring in the bucket you are spraying out of. They come in 1 gal and 5 gallon straining bag size - so it will fit over the top of the open container. If you tried to fasten this type of sock to the pick up tube - it might get sucked up by the pump 
I don't know what type of unit you have but most will have a wire screen at the end of the pick up and I'm sure you are aware of the manifold filter and the gun probably has one in the handle.
I don't know what type of unit you have but most will have a wire screen at the end of the pick up and I'm sure you are aware of the manifold filter and the gun probably has one in the handle.
#12
11-07-08, 02:49 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: EveryWhere
Posts: 1,093
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
marksr,
This sock is small and has a draw string, It's made to go over the wire screen and be tied onto the pick-up tube.
Thanks again for all the help !
This sock is small and has a draw string, It's made to go over the wire screen and be tied onto the pick-up tube.
Thanks again for all the help !
#13
11-11-08, 08:49 AM
Actually, the small substrates are ideal for HVLP sprayers - do you have one of those in the rental store?
You can spray house paint enamels very well with them (with perhaps a slight bit of thinning).
You can spray house paint enamels very well with them (with perhaps a slight bit of thinning).
