Drippy paint and fuzzies on wall


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Old 01-03-09, 08:22 PM
R
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Unhappy Drippy paint and fuzzies on wall

I am having major problems with my living room, besides changing my mind about the color 3 times! There are two separate things going on:

I thought we had followed all the right steps - we sanded and spackled and clean the walls really well with TSP substitute before starting our painting. We also dusted and cleaned the room thoroughly. We used a Kilz primer, then we painted with a flat - we were stopped in our tracks when we realized there were little fuzzies/hairs showing in the paint. We tried wiping off the paint and putting a fresh roller pad on the roller. We thought maybe because we were using a roller pad that had already been used and cleaned might be the problem. But we continue to get those fuzzies. We went out and bought brand new pads, higher quality - it improved a little but we still see them every now and then. (We have no animals.) What could this be? Is it because the roller isn't wet enough?

Also - we ended up completely starting over, twice, because we hated the color - so we again sanded and cleaned(unfortunately we had painted quite a bit). Then we decided to prime again because the new color was lighter. The primer will not adheze to the wall. It is very drippy in a LOT of places. It's completely frustrating. We didn't know what to do so we let it dry and then sanded all the drippy spots. My husband is actually still sanding as I write this.

Any suggestions/feedback would be really appreciated. We are BRAND new DYIers - as if this post hasn't already made that abundantly clear

Thx,
R
 
  #2  
Old 01-04-09, 05:34 AM
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Welcome to the forums!

I've never used a pad to paint a wall but with cheap roller covers it isn't uncommon for them to shed as they are used. Generally the fuzz will be less as the cover is used/cleaned.

The biggest concern is the primer not sticking. When you recleaned the walls - did you get all the cleaner residue removed? I've not used much of the latex kilz [it's a poor stain blocker] but it has a poor reputation. Seems like I heard there were adhesion issues but I don't remember for sure

Generally just brushing off the sanding residue is enough but you can use a damp [with water] rag to remove all the sanding dust.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 06:24 AM
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I've never cared for latex kilz myself. This could be part of the adhesion problem. Also, if you have primed and painted, you shouldn't prime again until the paint has cured, usually about 30 days. As far as the fuzzies, I haven't used roller pads like they show on TV but with traditional roller covers, we always wrap tape around them so that they are completely covered and when you pull the tape, it usually pulls all of the fuzzies out. I also agree that a used roller cover is better than a brand new one considering that it has been cleaned properly.
Hope this helps
 
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Old 01-04-09, 08:20 AM
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thx painter21 and marksr, really appreciate the feedback.
i think i used the wrong terminology - we aren't using anything out of the ordinary on the rollers - i called them "pads" for a lack of knowing what else to call them. they are the traditional roller covers. the tape idea is very good - we will try that today. i guess we really screwed up with this double prime - we were just really focused on getting this done before the holiday break ends. oh well - we'll press on.

i'm pretty certain we did get all the cleaning residue off - but i'll take your advice going forward and simply wipe the sanding dust down and no more Kilz! it's funny you both mentioned you don't like it yet at home depot and lowes it's the first thing they recommend in a primer. can you recommend a brand you do like?

one more thing - marksr, you mention the fuzzies are usually less with covers that are used and cleaned? can you confirm that i read this right? in another article i read it said to use a fresh roller each time for best results, pointing out that they are cheap for a reason. thanks for any input on this.

happy new year!
r
 
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Old 01-04-09, 10:13 AM
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One more question - can you tell me the best solution for repainting when you change your mind? For instance, we put a color up and thought we liked it, so we kept going - we don't like it and want to change it to another color that is similar, perhaps a little lighter. What are the proper steps? Do we have to wait 20-30 days and resand/reprime? Or can we paint over the existing color? As I stated below - we did reprime which we realize wasn't the best idea. But I'm wondering what the proper steps are should you change your mind about a color you just put up?
 
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Old 01-04-09, 12:16 PM
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Kilz was basically the 1st primer developed to take the place of pigmented shellac [extra stinky,cleans up with denatured alchol] The original Kilz is oil base and still a decent stain hiding primer. Zinnser makes a whole line of primers, each with their own special uses. Paint stores [not dept] all have a line up of primers to choose from. Usually the help at a paint store has some training and can also ask any of the many pros that come in to properly answer questions. Paint dept help usually has only a vague understanding of the coatings they sell.

I'm old school and rarely use a roller cover that isn't lambs wool/skin. They run about $10 but last a long time if cleaned properly. It's rare to run into any fuzz problems with lambs wool. Synthetic covers vary from the el cheapo to decent. The better covers are easier to work with and get a nice looking job

Generally primer isn't needed for a repaint. Primers are for raw substrate [including repairs] for sealing stains or dark colors, and for adhession issues. Usually you can change colors by just using the new color on the next coat. there shouldn't be any drying/curing issues with coats 1-3. When you get past 3 coats is when you really need to be concerned with the paint build up not being cured.
 
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Old 01-04-09, 03:58 PM
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I just wanted to clarify about the cure time. We had a job this year where a previous painter had reprimed right after painting because of a color change. It was basically a mess when we got to it. Once we sanded and did a little skimming in a few spots, we painted and it turned out great. Everything was latex but cure time was only important because of the repriming. Like marksr said, you can put as many coats of paint as you want. Also like marksr, all we use are lambswool roller covers and they seem to get better with age. I have one that I've been using for a year or more. Cheap isn't always better. Good luck!
 
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Old 01-05-09, 03:48 AM
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Specifically what cover are you using? There are plenty of synthetic covers that don't have problems with shedding, and there are plenty that do. I use the 3/8" Purdy White Dove. Not too overpriced, good, consistent, and available everywhere.

As you have discovered, friends don't let friends use water-base Kilz. It really is horrible stuff. For future priming needs, use paint-store primer. I use SW PrepRite Pro Block Latex and it has worked great for me. BM fans generally use their Fresh Start equivalent. Zinsser also makes excellent primers.

I would go out on a limb and suggest a coat of "problem solving" coating like Zinsser Gardz to "lock down" the failing primer. I should also lock down those fuzzies.

SirWired
 
 

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