Touchup paint is lighter...?

I'm trying to touchup some small spots that have been marked on our walls. The entire interior is painted the same color, which is a light tan. I just got some new paint (Sherwin Williams) and it is the exact same color as the original (according to the numbers on the can). The paint is flat and about $35 a gallon, it covers very well.

The problem is my touchup ends up lighter, I'm using a small touchup roller. I've tried this three times now over the past 6 months or so, and the first time I let a couple of spots dry for a month and they didn't darken. The second time I let it dry even longer and tried a different type of roller. I tried 'feathering' and different techniques with the roller and it always ends up ligther and splotchy looking.

1. Can indoor temperature cause the paint to be lighter when applied?

2. How much does nap affect the darkness of the paint appearance when applied?

3. Will the paint eventually darken to match and I'm not waiting long enough? The paint on the walls is approximately four years old.

These may be silly questions but I don't know much about painting and I can't seem to find much about touchup. With such a neutral color and flat I didn't think it would be this much of a problem, especially with the same paint color.

We bought this house as a model, and it was two years old when we moved in. They retouched spots that had problems and they blended fine.

I guess I need tips on retouching, and some suggestions - beyond just repainting each wall that needs touchup. I'm not expecting perfection, but it is quite a bit lighter and very obvious...

Thanks!

 

Answers:
#1. Yes, different temperature at the time of touch up can cause the paint to be slightly different color.

#2. A different roller nap length will look different too. You need to use the same applicator at the same temperature (for the most part) as when the paint was applied.

#3. No, probably not. It has been touched up over a period of 6 months - the color you have on the older spots is what you're going to get.

The real problem is likely:
Paint is a little bit like wallpaper runs. The touch up paint you picked up is from a different batch than the original paint and the colorants used to tint it are also (most likely), so the paint is slightly different in color.

 

SWP usually does a good job of tinting the same line and color consistantly although it is always best to touch up using the original batch of paint. The older a paint job gets, the harder it is to get touch up that doesn't show. I've touched up numerous model homes and sometimes it's easier/better to just roll the wall [or section] The top hardly ever shows that it wasn't cut in and except for dirt, there is little cutting in needed at the bottom.

Some lines of paint touch up better than others. What kind of SWP paint did you use?

btw - welcome to the forums!

 

Thanks for the replies...

I'm using classic 99 interior flat latex. Is there a recommended roller that would be better for touchup? I've been using the small kits for touchup/mini rollers.

Regarding the temperature...it seems like the last time I tried to do touchup was in the summer, and the indoor temp was probably around 75 with higher humidity. It is pretty dry in here now and the temp is closer to 70.

 

It's been awhile since I've used any classic99 but it should touch up ok. The big problem is the paint job being 4yrs old! IMO your best bet is to roll the entire wall/section.

 

Paint can change color over time, and I suspect that is what is happening here. It may be time to just go ahead and paint the whole wall.

Also, consider upgrading your paint. While Classic99 is not an awful paint, it is certainly about the minimum grade I would consider. (I use it on ceilings.) You may want to give SuperPaint a try; it isn't much more expensive than the Classic99 (on sale anyway), and it is much sturdier.

SirWried

 

The classic99 is what the builder used to paint the whole house...good to know he went on the cheaper end

I think what I will do is paint the walls that have alot of touchup marks and leave everything else alone. It sounds like I'm going to make things worse by continuing to try and fix spots. Thanks for the advice everyone -

 

While classic99 isn't SWP's top of the line coating, it is better than what a lot of builders use. Most seem to favor the promar 400 which IMO colors the wall but isn't what I consider a paint job. Unless paid extra, I usually used promar 200 [top of pro/builder line] which might be similiar to classic99. It touches up well [during 1st yr] and is fairly washable. Years ago classic99 was SWP's top of the line interior latex paint. It is still as good as it used to be. Improvements in paint formulas brought about the super paint and duration which are top notch coatings.

 

I've been painting for 35 years and if you can do touch ups even a month after a paint job and not have it show ( even slightly ) I'll come there and drink the leftover paint then eat the can. If you want a perfect result, you will have to repaint. After four years its just about time anyway.

Gary

 

The trick with touch ups [besides using quality coatings] is to know where you can touch up and where it is better to reroll. While it's true that a touch up may always show from the right angle and lighting, touch ups down correctly won't be readily apparent.

 

This is a tough one for professional painters too. We can pick up a gallon of paint at 7am and return at lunch for a 2nd gallon and the color can be off enough to show.

I'd have to say from experience the odds you going to a paint store for more paint and having it touch up nicely are slim to none.

One other thing worth mentioning, SW is known for up and changing formula on a color. Bone White isn't the same Bone White it was years ago for example. You might want to call and ask if there were any changes in formulas over the years. Minwax Stains are another where they change formulas. This thing happens and do not let them tell you it doesn't. It's funny, even SW employees are shocked to learn that, not surprisingly.

 

I use sw property management paint. Not top grade but ok. It seems flat paint absorbs readily whatever is introduced to the air making it unlikely for the paint to match. The eggshell is a very close match to where it would be acceptable to most.

 

Welcome to the forums, moosefish. Please check the dates next time, as you replied to a six year old question.