What kind of paint should I use?
#1
04-27-00, 06:34 AM
I want a fix for the concrete floor in my entryway, as well as the wooden stairs off the entryway. I need a solution that will look decent for about a year, until I can buy new. I think painting may be my only solution but I'm not sure what type of paint to use and believe I should probably use a sealer? Will washing the concrete with TSP be enough preparation? It currently has linoleum on it. The glue has basically disintegrated due to the wrong type being used over the hot water radiant heat. I live in a rather remote community with fairly limited shopping. Please suggest only commonly available products. Thank you for any and all suggestions!
#2
04-27-00, 09:21 PM
If all of the glue has been removed, hot mopping with TSP, followed by hot water rinse moppings (multiple) should make the concrete ready for a sealer then a latex "floor or deck paint". If glue remains, remove with adhesive remover or semi paste paint reemover, followed by acetone to clean up the residue, then TSP and rinse.
If it's available pick and apply a paint compatiable sealer, prior to topcoating.
If it's available pick and apply a paint compatiable sealer, prior to topcoating.
#4
04-28-00, 10:34 PM
CONCRETE
There are a lot of considerations to think about before
painting concrete floors:
1.How Old Is Your Concrete Floor?
2.How Clean Is Your Concrete Floor?
3.Is this a Re-paint Job?
4.Is moisture preventing paint from adhering?
5.Is there a hardener on a new concrete floor?
Answer to 1.
To be sure of a good, tightly-adhering paint job, new concrete
floors need to age or
weather at least 30 days. The levels of moisture and alkalinity
are much higher in
new concrete and these levels need time to drop so they do
not interfere with a new
coat of paint adhering. Acid etching neutralizes the surface
and provides a better bond for new paint. It is recommended
for all unpainted or new concrete floors prior to coating.
Prepare a liquid solution of one part muriatic acid with three
parts water. Always add the acid to the water to avoid the
splash of hot acid. Do not pour the water to the acid. Use a
stiff bristle brush. Allow solution to remain on floor until it
stops bubbling. Flush thoroughly with clean water. Flush the
surface again if it is not dry in a few hours.After the surface
has dried, vacuum to remove powder which is produced by the
etching process. When the floor is properly etched it should
resemble the texture of
fine sandpaper. For industrial applications, more of a surface
profile may be required
Answer2.
oil, grease, tar and other contaminants need to be removed
thoroughly before
painting. If they are present when the floor is painted, they
can cause peeling.
In a garage, it is especially important that deeply absorbed
oils are completely
removed. Sometimes stubborn grease may continue to rise to
the surface even after
the initial cleaning. After scrubbing, allow the surface to dry
for a couple days and
see if any grease or oil stains re-surface. If they do, scrub
again. In a laundry room
area, make certain all soap residues are removed. Clean the
floor with a strong detergent solution avoiding mild
dishwashing liquid. Use a solution of one cup trisodium
phosphate type cleaner per pail of hot water. After scrubbing,
rinse thoroughly. Scrape and sand to remove all loose and
scaling paint
and to lower the gloss of any tightly adhering old paint.
We recommend Pittsburg Paints Aquapon® epoxy for garage
floors. Proper surface preparation is important. Allow the
epoxies to cure at least two days before exposing the surface
to hot tires from an automobile. Do not apply Aquapon®
solvent-based epoxy (97-1 series) over existing paint films
other than existing polyamide-epoxy films in good condition.
Aquapon® WB epoxy (98-Line) can be applied over alkyd,
latex and polyamide-epoxy films with proper surface
preparation.
Is this a Re-paint Job?
If the floor has already been painted, the main concerns are
making certain there is
no gloss remaining on the old layer of paint, no dirt or
contaminants, and the paint
that’s there is tightly adhering. Do not acid etch previously
painted floors. If the
concrete is old and crumbling, remove all loose concrete.
Remember, paint cannot
"glue" down loose pieces of a surface. If the surface is
deteriorating, it’s not the paint
that’s failing; rather, the pieces of the surface are releasing
and bringing the paint
with it.
Is moisture preventing paint from adhering?
A Moisture Barrier is a Must!
Floors laid on-grade without a moisture barrier do not hold
paint well. If the paint on your concrete floor keeps peeling,
moisture could be seeping up through concrete
and pushing the paint off. This is especially common in
basements. Most times a layer of plastic is put down before a
concrete floor is poured to prevent this attack from moisture.
Determine if the concrete floor has a moisture barrier. Take a
plastic sheet (18"x18" at 4 mils thick) and tape down all the
edges of the plastic. Keep the plastic in place for a minimum
of 16 hours and then remove the tape and visually inspect the
underside of the plastic sheet and the concrete for any
evidence of moisture. If any
is seen, the floor should not be painted.
Is there a hardener on your new concrete floor?
Hardeners Must be removed First!
Some new concrete floors may have a surface coating applied
or may contain
additives which speed up the cure and harden the surface.
Since these "hardeners"
may prevent good adhesion, they need to removed by some
type of mechanical
abrasion.
------------------
Gary Goel/Owner Newkote Kitchen & Bath Refinishing
We are just a shade better...
gary@newkote.com
There are a lot of considerations to think about before
painting concrete floors:
1.How Old Is Your Concrete Floor?
2.How Clean Is Your Concrete Floor?
3.Is this a Re-paint Job?
4.Is moisture preventing paint from adhering?
5.Is there a hardener on a new concrete floor?
Answer to 1.
To be sure of a good, tightly-adhering paint job, new concrete
floors need to age or
weather at least 30 days. The levels of moisture and alkalinity
are much higher in
new concrete and these levels need time to drop so they do
not interfere with a new
coat of paint adhering. Acid etching neutralizes the surface
and provides a better bond for new paint. It is recommended
for all unpainted or new concrete floors prior to coating.
Prepare a liquid solution of one part muriatic acid with three
parts water. Always add the acid to the water to avoid the
splash of hot acid. Do not pour the water to the acid. Use a
stiff bristle brush. Allow solution to remain on floor until it
stops bubbling. Flush thoroughly with clean water. Flush the
surface again if it is not dry in a few hours.After the surface
has dried, vacuum to remove powder which is produced by the
etching process. When the floor is properly etched it should
resemble the texture of
fine sandpaper. For industrial applications, more of a surface
profile may be required
Answer2.
oil, grease, tar and other contaminants need to be removed
thoroughly before
painting. If they are present when the floor is painted, they
can cause peeling.
In a garage, it is especially important that deeply absorbed
oils are completely
removed. Sometimes stubborn grease may continue to rise to
the surface even after
the initial cleaning. After scrubbing, allow the surface to dry
for a couple days and
see if any grease or oil stains re-surface. If they do, scrub
again. In a laundry room
area, make certain all soap residues are removed. Clean the
floor with a strong detergent solution avoiding mild
dishwashing liquid. Use a solution of one cup trisodium
phosphate type cleaner per pail of hot water. After scrubbing,
rinse thoroughly. Scrape and sand to remove all loose and
scaling paint
and to lower the gloss of any tightly adhering old paint.
We recommend Pittsburg Paints Aquapon® epoxy for garage
floors. Proper surface preparation is important. Allow the
epoxies to cure at least two days before exposing the surface
to hot tires from an automobile. Do not apply Aquapon®
solvent-based epoxy (97-1 series) over existing paint films
other than existing polyamide-epoxy films in good condition.
Aquapon® WB epoxy (98-Line) can be applied over alkyd,
latex and polyamide-epoxy films with proper surface
preparation.
Is this a Re-paint Job?
If the floor has already been painted, the main concerns are
making certain there is
no gloss remaining on the old layer of paint, no dirt or
contaminants, and the paint
that’s there is tightly adhering. Do not acid etch previously
painted floors. If the
concrete is old and crumbling, remove all loose concrete.
Remember, paint cannot
"glue" down loose pieces of a surface. If the surface is
deteriorating, it’s not the paint
that’s failing; rather, the pieces of the surface are releasing
and bringing the paint
with it.
Is moisture preventing paint from adhering?
A Moisture Barrier is a Must!
Floors laid on-grade without a moisture barrier do not hold
paint well. If the paint on your concrete floor keeps peeling,
moisture could be seeping up through concrete
and pushing the paint off. This is especially common in
basements. Most times a layer of plastic is put down before a
concrete floor is poured to prevent this attack from moisture.
Determine if the concrete floor has a moisture barrier. Take a
plastic sheet (18"x18" at 4 mils thick) and tape down all the
edges of the plastic. Keep the plastic in place for a minimum
of 16 hours and then remove the tape and visually inspect the
underside of the plastic sheet and the concrete for any
evidence of moisture. If any
is seen, the floor should not be painted.
Is there a hardener on your new concrete floor?
Hardeners Must be removed First!
Some new concrete floors may have a surface coating applied
or may contain
additives which speed up the cure and harden the surface.
Since these "hardeners"
may prevent good adhesion, they need to removed by some
type of mechanical
abrasion.
quote:<HR>Originally posted by Secrecy:
I want a fix for the concrete floor in my entryway, as well as the wooden stairs off the entryway. I need a solution that will look decent for about a year, until I can buy new. I think painting may be my only solution but I'm not sure what type of paint to use and believe I should probably use a sealer? Will washing the concrete with TSP be enough preparation? It currently has linoleum on it. The glue has basically disintegrated due to the wrong type being used over the hot water radiant heat. I live in a rather remote community with fairly limited shopping. Please suggest only commonly available products. Thank you for any and all suggestions!<HR>
------------------
Gary Goel/Owner Newkote Kitchen & Bath Refinishing
We are just a shade better...
gary@newkote.com
