newbie needing masking tape advise


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Old 03-10-09, 02:22 PM
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Smile newbie needing masking tape advise

Just wondering if somebody could help me with this masking-tape-over-paint issue.
I've just moved into a delightful home but it looks like the colours were picked out by Jiffy the Clown! Much painting required.
The crown molding in the living room (appears to be wooden) is black. I'm changing it to off-white, and painting the now-beige walls to red. I have just finished putting up masking tape on the ceiling over the molding and on the wall below it. Tomorrow I'll do the primer and painting.
Here's my question: how long after painting the molding do I need to wait before I can put masking tape on the molding, in order to paint the walls? I am afraid of ripping off the new paint on the molding. I have been googling for the past half hour, and have come up with info varying from 4 hours to 30 days! Any reply will be appreciated...thanks
Shirley
 
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Old 03-11-09, 02:52 AM
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Welcome to the forums Shirley!

Generally it isn't a good idea to use tape. Tape can give a false sense of security. it isn't uncommon for paint to seep under the tape
There are also problems with the tape pulling paint loose. generally it's best to pull the tape off while the paint is still wet/tacky. If you wait until the paint has dried, it's a good idea to take a knife/razor blade and cut along the edge of the tape to break any bond formed by the paint.

A good brush and a little practice should be able to wean you off of tape

How long it takes the paint to cure can vary between brands and drying conditions. What brand of paint and primer are you using? Do you know if the current paint is latex? or oil base?
 
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Old 03-11-09, 05:28 AM
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um...well the paint is Rona's latex-acrylic, I know that. I would love to not have to use tape, but for this kind of work I really must as my hand is a bit shaky especially when I'm up the ladder. I think I will invest in a better brush before I begin this job. I've read a lot of useful information since posting here. The info from Prowallguy about tape is very helpful. I also got some helpful info from the post on red paint.
Thanks for the reply. I like painting and usually do a pretty good job: bound to improve with help from you guys!
Best to you and again my gratitude , Shirley
 
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Old 03-11-09, 08:06 AM
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It should be added to the tape info that there is more than one type of "painter's tape" and that the choices vary according to brand chosen.I believe 3M as well as other lines now include a version of painter's tape that has a "weaker" adhesive.the terminology varies but the idea is that this tape is used when the possibility of removing paint with the tape is higher.One brand colors this version a sort of light purple as opposed to the blue.I also think it may be called "delicate".

There is also a line of tape called "easy mask".This is basically brown paper tape with a light "post it note" like adhesive along one edge.This tape would definately call for just getting a few errant brush marks etc on it as it is not designed for heavy paint coverage.

that doesn't change any of the advice and info given on tape usage but if you are using tape over fresh paint etc then the lighter adhesive version would be the better choice.
 
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Old 03-11-09, 10:20 AM
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The variance in time is because it depends on the paint itself and the substrate below (what paint is on it).

Latex paints develop adhesion as they cure which can be a month or two (depends on the color - more color= more tint and longer cure time).

A latex will develop adhesion to a flat paint or primer quicker than it will a sheen paint or a "non-painted" surface (vinyl siding for example).

You can tape your moulding off with the 3m blue tape. There are two common varieties out there #2080 and #2090.

#2090 is crepe paper tape and has a slight texture to it. It is cheaper and is not the best for masking lines because paint will migrate under the texture of the tape. #2080 is a smooth blue tape and works great for clean lines, but is a lot more expensive.
 
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Old 03-11-09, 11:28 AM
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Gosh! Great info and advise all around. I have a much better idea now, of how to take care of this. I can't thank you guys enough!
 
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Old 03-12-09, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
Welcome to the forums Shirley!

Generally it isn't a good idea to use tape. Tape can give a false sense of security. it isn't uncommon for paint to seep under the tape
There are also problems with the tape pulling paint loose. generally it's best to pull the tape off while the paint is still wet/tacky. If you wait until the paint has dried, it's a good idea to take a knife/razor blade and cut along the edge of the tape to break any bond formed by the paint.

A good brush and a little practice should be able to wean you off of tape

How long it takes the paint to cure can vary between brands and drying conditions. What brand of paint and primer are you using? Do you know if the current paint is latex? or oil base?
Excellent advise, a little time practicing on a wall developing some cutting in skills, will more than pay off over the course of the project. And eliminate your adhesion issues. Practice with a good quality angular brush, load the brush tip with paint up about an inch, tap both sides in the same place in your pot, move the brush toward the cutting in surface, slide the brush parallel to your cut in line away about an inch removing the paint from one side, then turn the brush over, drier side up, and ride a bristle along the line. With a little practice you'll do fine. If you have trouble discerning a clean line, slide a putty or broad knife along the seam, and it will actually draw a nice line for you to cut to...

Bill
 
 

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