Exterior paint peeling

Old 08-02-00, 08:03 PM
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The paint on our metal garage doors is curling off in big pieces right down to the bare metal. The home is only 6 years old. We don't know what pre-preparation or paint was originally used. As I want to repaint and do it "right" this time, I have a number of questions.

1) Do I need to remove the old paint that hasn't loosened -- is there a chance that any "unremoved" paint might continue to "pull away" under the new coat of paint?

2)What is the best way to get the remaining paint off? Would a power sprayer work?

3)Should the metal be "washed" or "primed" with anything special?

4)Latex - oil - or specialty paint - any suggestion on "brands"?

5) Any time I've painted a metal door with gloss or semi gloss paint, I always end up with "lap" or "brush" marks no matter how hard I try or how expensive the paint. Is there a way to get that nice smooth "factory" applied look and if so, what is it?

[This message has been edited by JBA (edited August 02, 2000).]
Old 08-03-00, 03:03 AM
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(1)I would have to believe that there is a good chance that more if not all of the paint may lift in time.
(2)A power washer would be a good choice in this case,I think it would prevent scratching the doors.A 3500 psi washer should remove any paint that is suspect.
(3)Wash with tsp or some sort of housewash to remove any oils.Prime with 100% latex primer.In this case,stick with a major paint label.
(4)Latex paint is must in this case.Use the best major label paint you can afford.Oil paint will not flex as the door expands and contracts.
(5)Experienced painters get that smooth look by feathering the paint as they go.Latex paints will set in 3 to 5 minutes(faster in the sun)and will show as a lap.If your doors have panels,paint the panels first feathering what gets outside the panel so it will be dry when you get back to the frame.This will prevent the rolling up of half dry paint.That true factory finish can only be had by spraying.

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