My painting problem
#1
04-22-09, 06:33 PM
My painting problem
New user here
I am remodeling my bathroom. I have installed brand new green board. I mudded and sanded around the bathtub surround(fiberglass 2 piece). I taped around the tub before any painting. I then primed with Kilz. After that I applied 2 coats of glidden paint. About 12 hours later i tried to pull up the tape. The paint started peeling badly. In some places it peeled pretty far away from the tub. It peeled all the way down to the wall.
My question is what went wrong and what is the best way to fix it?
Adam
I am remodeling my bathroom. I have installed brand new green board. I mudded and sanded around the bathtub surround(fiberglass 2 piece). I taped around the tub before any painting. I then primed with Kilz. After that I applied 2 coats of glidden paint. About 12 hours later i tried to pull up the tape. The paint started peeling badly. In some places it peeled pretty far away from the tub. It peeled all the way down to the wall.
My question is what went wrong and what is the best way to fix it?
Adam
#2
04-22-09, 07:09 PM
just found this and I think it answers my question.
Im still in seek of advice on the best way to fix this.
Should I peel up what I can?
Can I "blend" in by priming and painting the removed areas?
Will it look seemless?
Should I pull up tape after each application while wet so it doesnt have a chance to pull?
Im still in seek of advice on the best way to fix this.
Should I peel up what I can?
Can I "blend" in by priming and painting the removed areas?
Will it look seemless?
Should I pull up tape after each application while wet so it doesnt have a chance to pull?
I have re-read you original post more closely.
I have known for years that new primed drywall compound will often not pass a standard tape test. The problem is normally not with the primer adhesion, it is with the weakness of the drywall compound itself. The compound is too weak to resist tape pull off. What is happening is you are actually pulling apart the drywall compound.
If you look at the back side of the primer chips you will see fairly thick (3 or 4 mils) of crystalline-like drywall compound attached to the back side of the primer.
Some compounds are worse (weaker) than others. The light compounds are more likely to have this problem.
If this is the case, you will need to use a easy release masking tape and gently pull it off.
Additional coats of paint will help to distrube the stress from tape pull off and diminish or eliminate the pull off problem.
I have known for years that new primed drywall compound will often not pass a standard tape test. The problem is normally not with the primer adhesion, it is with the weakness of the drywall compound itself. The compound is too weak to resist tape pull off. What is happening is you are actually pulling apart the drywall compound.
If you look at the back side of the primer chips you will see fairly thick (3 or 4 mils) of crystalline-like drywall compound attached to the back side of the primer.
Some compounds are worse (weaker) than others. The light compounds are more likely to have this problem.
If this is the case, you will need to use a easy release masking tape and gently pull it off.
Additional coats of paint will help to distrube the stress from tape pull off and diminish or eliminate the pull off problem.
#3
04-23-09, 04:02 AM
Welcome to the forums!
Often there are issues with tape. It's almost always best to remove the tape while the paint is still wet. If the paint dries, it's best to cut the paint bond [between wall and tape] with an utility knife.
It can take latex enamel a week or 2 to cure so I would peel anymore. You'll need to sand the edges of the wet paint, skim with joint compound [to level the transistion] sand, prime and paint. Enamels don't always touch up well but the short walls in a typical bath rm will work in your favor - no long line of sight to highlight the touch up and if it is noticable, it's a short wall to repaint
Often there are issues with tape. It's almost always best to remove the tape while the paint is still wet. If the paint dries, it's best to cut the paint bond [between wall and tape] with an utility knife.
It can take latex enamel a week or 2 to cure so I would peel anymore. You'll need to sand the edges of the wet paint, skim with joint compound [to level the transistion] sand, prime and paint. Enamels don't always touch up well but the short walls in a typical bath rm will work in your favor - no long line of sight to highlight the touch up and if it is noticable, it's a short wall to repaint
#4
04-23-09, 04:48 AM
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I'm not a fan of latex in bathrooms. Fix up as specified and be sure you have the ceiling fan running when using the shower. Poor adhesion has a way of wandering when you add steam from a shower.
#5
04-23-09, 07:15 AM
I need to skim with mud to the edge of the peeled paint? No chunks of compound came up. I can't just prime the area that came up and paint. You'll see the transition if I do it that way? That is obviously what I'm trying to avoid. Thanks for the tips!
#7
04-24-09, 09:18 AM
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painters tape faux pas
Happened to me too. I painted over it. Now it looks like I painted over poorly removed wall paper in that area instead of brand spankin' new greenboard.
Best to commit to the do over with the mud. If your making the effort to ask around about it, then it sounds like it would bother you unless it was fixed correctly.
Best to commit to the do over with the mud. If your making the effort to ask around about it, then it sounds like it would bother you unless it was fixed correctly.
