serious wallpaper removal problems


Old 07-23-09, 06:41 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: mississippi
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
serious wallpaper removal problems

I've read several threads, but no one seems to have the exact problem I have. I have removed wallpaper in my kitchen/breakfast area that was 20+ years old. The wallpaper had been painted over. In the kitchen I was able to remove all the paper and glue, but the drywall was pretty damaged, leaving lots of areas of brown paper showing. I have primed and mudded, but there's so much damage and I'm so inexperienced that I can't get it smooth. I have decided to mud a texture on the walls to hide the imperfections.

The problems really started with the breakfast area. It was a different type of wallpaper and removal left the paper backing. I got that off and started on the glue layer, used bleach water, vinegar, fabric softener, and a few different commercial products. It is coming off slowly, but the top layer of dry wall is wrinkling and I'm having to cut out massive areas of the first layer of dry wall, which I will prime and mud and will texture like the rest of the kitchen.

I still have 3 walls left of glue. Can I just prime over the glue, because removing the glue is removing the first layer of the drywall and I'm ready to get on with this?

Also, if I use an oil based primer, then mud the entire wall with mud, do I need to prime again and does it matter what kind of paint I use?
Sponsored Links
Old 07-23-09, 03:10 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,117
Received 226 Votes on 201 Posts
Welcome to the forums!

It is always best to remove ALL the glue! When you can't, the glue must be coated with either an oil base primer or zinnser's gardz. New joint compound must also be primed although a latex primer is n ormally used - you can use left over oil base primer if you want.

It's never a good idea to rely on texture to hide poor workmanship. Skim coating isn't as hard as it sounds. Thin the j/c slightly and apply with a wide knife. When dry use a sanding pole [or block] to sand it even. Obviously the neater the j/c is applied the less you need to sand. The j/c doesn't need to be very thick, just enough to hide the defects.
Old 07-23-09, 05:02 PM
Tolyn Ironhand's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Twin Cities, MN
Posts: 13,408
Received 149 Votes on 133 Posts
In commercial jobs that I work on (I'm an electrician) they never remove the glue when going from wall covering to a painted wall. They just skim the wall with mud, sand and paint. Turns out just fine.
Old 07-23-09, 06:47 PM
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Mass
Posts: 263
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Believe it or not, sometimes it is easier to remove the drywall and put new up., A day to take it down, and a day to put it up, and you have a new surface. That aside, a good way to texture is to trowel on some mud, pull it up with the trowel by pattycaking it, and then smooth the high spots over with the same trowel...makes a nice effect...
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title: