Proper caulking of molding

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  #1  
Old 09-10-09, 11:49 AM
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Proper caulking of molding

Hey guys, I had some issues with the paint/caulk cracking where the quarter-round molding was sitting on top of the stringers of my staircase. The movement in the stairs broke the caulk and paint joint.
I removed the quarter-round molding, scraped the wall and top of the stringer clean, then installed new quarter-round. I attached the quarter round very well and I also drove strews thru the stringer into the studs on the adjacent wall to limit movement in the staircase. Everything came together well, it's solid as a rock and ready to be finished.

The wall is fully painted and the quarter-round is primed, now I am ready for caulk. I want to caulk this well so I don't have the same problem happen again after all this work.

In some areas there is a gap between the quarter-round and the wall, that will be easy to fill with caulk. However, in other areas (such as where the quarter-round meets the top of the stringer) the joint it very tight, no gap at all. Because of this, I won't be able to get any caulk in there. I will be able to get a thin film of caulk over the top of the gap, but that won't really help if there is any movement and the gap opens up, right?

What do professional painters so in this instance?

Thanks!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-10-09, 12:29 PM
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I always caulk the gaps before I paint with paintable caulking.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Pulpo View Post
I always caulk the gaps before I paint with paintable caulking.
I haven't painted yet accept for the pre-primed molding and the previously painted wall and stringer.

Any help on the question in the original post?

Thanks.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 02:10 PM
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I almost always caulk all joints, big or small. It makes for a professional looking job
Run your bead across the entire joint and wipe it smooth with your finger [a small sponge or wet rag between the wall and your finger will keep your finger clean] Besides smoothing out the caulking it will also press some of the caulk into the gap. Be sure to use a good siliconized acrylic latex caulk.

The correct time to caulk is after priming and before finish paint. The tube label will state how much cure time the caulk needs before painting.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 02:14 PM
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Thanks for the reply, Marksr.

On the joints where there is no gap at all and no where for the caulk to go into, what is going to happen if there is movement in the future?

Should I open the gap with a knife so that I could get some caulk in there? Or just caulk over it and hope for the best?
 
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Old 09-10-09, 02:38 PM
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I just caulk over it. Smoothing the caulk out with your finger helps to press it in and often [providing you use good caulking] there are no issues. Even if the caulk can't get pressed into the crack, it still has a bond to both sides the substrates being caulked. Generally if there are issues, they are minor enough to slide by until the next repaint time. The only place where I've had reoccuring caulk failure is on crown moulding and usually that's more a product of the carpenter not have a good solid frame to nail to.
 
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Old 09-10-09, 03:33 PM
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Gotcha!

I bought DAP Acrylic Latex Painter's Caulk with Silicon. Good enough? Or should I buy something else?

Thanks!
 
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Old 09-11-09, 03:38 AM
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As long as it isn't their alex line it should be ok. I'm partial to the 'white lightning' brand but don't know if it's available outside of the south east.
 
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Old 09-11-09, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by marksr View Post
As long as it isn't their alex line it should be ok.
It says "Alex Plus" down the side No good?

I'm partial to the 'white lightning' brand but don't know if it's available outside of the south east.
I haven't seen it.
 
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Old 09-11-09, 01:50 PM
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I've not used the alex plus and can't say if it's any good or not. The old regular 'alex' caulk didn't stretch well and if left unpainted often turned a color other than white. Does the alex plus say ' siliconized acrylic' on the label? SWP sells [maybe owns now] white lightning and I've bought it at one of the big box stores - just don't remember which one.
 
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Old 09-11-09, 01:59 PM
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This Alex Plus only comes in clear so it needs to be painted.

There is a Sherwin Williams Paint store near me, I'll just go there and look for this White Lightning.
 
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Old 09-11-09, 02:27 PM
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It should come in white, clear and maybe a few select colors. While a latex clear caulk is paintable, it has been my experience that latex paint likes to crawl a bit over the clear caulking [but not like it does with the unpaintable G.E.silicone] A 2nd coat of paint usually fixes that.
 
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Old 09-11-09, 03:47 PM
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White Lightning is available at Ace Hardware.It is part of the paint section planogram I believe for all store formats.
 
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Old 09-14-09, 08:20 AM
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I stopped by my local SWP store, the only caulk they had made by White Lightning is the:
3006 Siliconized Acrylic Latex Caulk. Original Formula, All Purpose Adhesive Caulk.

The salesman said that this might not be the best for my purpose because it's an adhesive caulk and not painters caulk, but I bought it anyway hoping that this is what you guys are talking about.
 
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Old 09-14-09, 03:19 PM
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I haven't read the label in a long time but I'm fairly certain that 3006 is the right number.
 
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Old 09-14-09, 04:05 PM
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Although WL makes a number of caulks including a "painter's" caulk,this product the 3006 is one of their best.The saleperson who felt "adhesive" was a drawback is incorrect.
 
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