Preparing ceiling before painting


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Old 12-18-09, 06:52 PM
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Preparing ceiling before painting

My home is about 8.5 yrs old. The two bathrooms up stairs need to be repainted, but the biggest issue is the ceilings.

In the Master, all the way around the shower stall, it's like the paint is all cracking. It looks dry and cracking at the seam where the wall meets the ceiling. Sort of like a 1" tape or something underneath is where the issue is.

Around the tub, we do not have this problem.

The kids bath, there is a seam in the ceiling, where two dry wall panels come together... the paint is flaking/cracking there too.

I'm hoping this isn't going to be major work... I was hoping to scrape, spackle, sand then primer and paint. Though I'm thinking there is more....

I took some photos... the lighting isn't the best, but you should be able to tell what i am referring to.



any pointers would be great...

And i have already been reading up on paint... found that especially interesting since i was thinking of using Behr.

Thanks in Advance

Terese
 
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Old 12-19-09, 04:59 AM
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Welcome to the forums Terese!

It looks like moisture has damaged the tape and joint compound

Do you know what kind of paint is currently on the bath walls/ceiling? It should be a latex enamel as flat latex does a poor job of repelling moisture. Do you run the exhaust fans after showers?

You will need to scrape off the bubbly areas. More than likely this will remove the drywall tape too
Finishing drywall isn't all that difficult. The tape is folded along the crease, and embedded into the wet joint compound you apply to both sides of the corner [where the ceiling meets wall] and smoothed out with a broad knife. It normally takes 3 coats of j/c, dry between coats with the final coat sanded smooth.
 
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Old 12-19-09, 05:19 AM
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Thanks Mark,

I"m sure the ceiling paint is 'whatever the contractor could buy cheap', paint. It was from Home Depot as that is where DH went to try and get more.

DH is a handy guy, but was saying... he's not in a painting mood... so i am taking this project on myself.

So -- where the 2 ceiling drywall boards come together, that needs to be done the same way? Scrape, retape and joint compound to refinish?

OH, and the fans are rarely used, maybe in the summer months. Guess I should use them more often.

thanks for the 'welcome' ... glad i found these forums.
 
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Old 12-19-09, 05:38 AM
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Ya, any joint in drywall must be taped. A peeling joint in the middle of a wall or ceiling would be repaired in the same manner [just don't fold the tape]

Your local paint store will have a better selection of better quality coatings than any big box paint dept - they tend to stock coatings based on price, not quality Where ever you buy the paint, make sure it's a latex enamel. The sheen isn't all that important but the enamel properties which repels moisture is....... and it's always a good idea to run the fan after showers, until the 'fog' is gone.
 
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Old 12-19-09, 06:39 AM
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make sure it's a latex enamel.
Yes... i did write that down.

looks like i'm gonna be busy for a while.

thanks again.
 
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Old 12-20-09, 10:02 AM
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I've just started scraping in the 'boys' bathroom.... as i take off the paint, it's like an eighth of an inch of paint and mud, but the tape seeds in tact.

can i just leave the original tape there and mud over it, sand, mud, sand... until the surface is smooth... then paint??

if so, this shouldn't be as much work as originally thought....
plus, ,going around the tub/shower... the paint is only slightly .... not sure how to describe it, not bubbly or peeling... but just sort of dry, where i could hopefully just sand it before prime/painting ...

does that sound right?
 
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Old 12-20-09, 10:22 AM
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here is an image.... the whole area i've scraped plus a close up.

I've removed most of the really bad area.... the rest of it, i didnt know if i could just sand to get the chipping area off, or should i scrape the entire width of the ceiling?

 
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Old 12-20-09, 12:40 PM
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As long as the tape is tightly adhered, there is no need to remove it. A fresh coat of mud [or 2] and sanding is all it needs to be ready for primer and paint. If you have a small section of tape that has an air bubble behind it you can take a knife, slit the tape and force some mud behind it - let dry and you are ready to continue.

You want to remove any/all mud that isn't adhered well. If you don't get all the loose off, the new coat of j/c may help it to stay put but it is the weak link.

Don't you like it when a tough job turns out to be easier than expected
 
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Old 12-20-09, 01:06 PM
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I'm glad you commented the way you did... because i scraped the length of the ceiling, with the exception of about 3" that were not loose or craked at all.... mudded it up and waiting for it to completely dry.

I'm hoping the wall can be done the same way, providing the tape is still tight and intact.

I'll go out and get a good primer and hopefully finish that this evening or tomorrow.

then to get paint......
 
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Old 12-20-09, 05:33 PM
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I've got the ceiling 'repaired' [have not primed yet] so now i'm going to attempt part of the wall. where the wall above the shower/bath tub meets the ceiling.

The paint is cracking, but it is not loose. I am having a hard time chipping it off.

Do i struggle to chip it all off, going down about that 1/16th or 1/8th of an inch then mud it up, sand, etc.

Or can i sand it down a bit til smooth and then prime and paint??

The paint is not cracked so far as to see any gaps, just minor cracking.

I am also assuming that the subcontractor painters did not prime... only used that 'white wash' contractor paint... so i plan to use Gardz, then prime then paint. [probably Zinsser Perma White ... just because i've read it suggested a lot. and it will obviously do the job and do it well. just dont know if it's over kill. ]

Does that sound like a good plan?

Thanks...

Terese
 
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Old 12-21-09, 03:07 AM
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As long as the mud is well adhered there is no need to remove it. Primer and paint won't won't hide hairline cracks so you might want to skim a thin coat of j/c over the affected area. Even if you sand the j/c back off - it will fill the minor cracks

Gardz should do a good job of sealing the work although I'd probably use their latex bullseye primer instead. Most any latex wall primer will be adequate. Perma White would be a good choice of top coat. If I remember correctly, perma white can be tinted a little. If you don't want white and a darker color than it can be tinted, use a kitchen and bath enamel. Any latex enamel will work but K&B enamel is best - that includes perma white.
 
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Old 12-21-09, 05:48 AM
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Super... thanks for all your input... it's making my 'job' a little easier.
 
 

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