exterior siding
#1
02-07-10, 12:10 PM
exterior siding
i am in the process of painting my homes exterior. i have run into a problem in removing peeling paint. the surface of the siding is "textured" to resemble a ruff sawn board. I cant sand it flat to remove flaking paint, a scraper only gets the high spots and a wire brush isn't the answer.
after i remove as much as possible is there a way to bond any missed areas? peel stop requires the same prep as primer as do most binder sealers. would a mixture of titebond III and water painted on the surface work? has anyone used glue as a solution?
i have used this method to stop peeling veneer on cabinet plywood with great success.
please help as i am gettting very frustrated with the whole process. a painter has told me to use caulking as a skim coat to adhere loose edges and another painter said to use all-purpose bando.
failure by the last painter to properly prepare the house before painting is the reason i have decided to do it myself. there must be some kind of trade tip that painters use for textured surfaces.
thanks for any advice, tips comments etc.
after i remove as much as possible is there a way to bond any missed areas? peel stop requires the same prep as primer as do most binder sealers. would a mixture of titebond III and water painted on the surface work? has anyone used glue as a solution?
i have used this method to stop peeling veneer on cabinet plywood with great success.
please help as i am gettting very frustrated with the whole process. a painter has told me to use caulking as a skim coat to adhere loose edges and another painter said to use all-purpose bando.
failure by the last painter to properly prepare the house before painting is the reason i have decided to do it myself. there must be some kind of trade tip that painters use for textured surfaces.
thanks for any advice, tips comments etc.
#2
02-07-10, 12:37 PM
No trade secrets that I'm aware of 
It's not always feasible to remove 100% of the failing paint
Generally what a scraper, sandpaper and wire brush doesn't remove will be somewhat protected by the fresh coat of paint. Short of sand blasting - you won't get it all.
I've never tried to use a glue solution to bind up failing paint. I wouldn't advise using a skim coat of caulking. A quality primer will help a lot, an oil primer will do better than latex. If you use latex primer, add about 20% or so of flood's emulsa bond to the primer. Obviously 2 coats of finish paint will protect longer than 1. The top line coatings will always preform better than their cheaper counterpart.
How soon after the previous paint job did the paint start to fail? What prep [if any] did he do? Is or was the paint chalky? What brand and line of paint did he do? Was the painting done during decent weather conditions?
It's not always feasible to remove 100% of the failing paint
Generally what a scraper, sandpaper and wire brush doesn't remove will be somewhat protected by the fresh coat of paint. Short of sand blasting - you won't get it all.I've never tried to use a glue solution to bind up failing paint. I wouldn't advise using a skim coat of caulking. A quality primer will help a lot, an oil primer will do better than latex. If you use latex primer, add about 20% or so of flood's emulsa bond to the primer. Obviously 2 coats of finish paint will protect longer than 1. The top line coatings will always preform better than their cheaper counterpart.
How soon after the previous paint job did the paint start to fail? What prep [if any] did he do? Is or was the paint chalky? What brand and line of paint did he do? Was the painting done during decent weather conditions?
#3
02-11-10, 03:41 PM
Painters use a pressure washer to remove loose paint from textured siding.
Don't do this if the house was built prior ot 1978 (the year lead paint was banned), or you will create a lead hazard and have lead paint chips all over the place which will be impossible to vacuum or clean up totally.
If your house was built after 1978, the pressure washer works, but it does take some skill and common sense use to avoid damaging the underlying wood while trying to remove the loose paint on top of it.
There is another product (other than Peel Stop) worth looking into, it is XIM's Peel Bond.
See link: XIM Bonder
Don't do this if the house was built prior ot 1978 (the year lead paint was banned), or you will create a lead hazard and have lead paint chips all over the place which will be impossible to vacuum or clean up totally.
If your house was built after 1978, the pressure washer works, but it does take some skill and common sense use to avoid damaging the underlying wood while trying to remove the loose paint on top of it.
There is another product (other than Peel Stop) worth looking into, it is XIM's Peel Bond.
See link: XIM Bonder
