Peeling Paint, Over and Over


  #1  
Old 05-13-10, 02:42 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Peeling Paint, Over and Over

Sorry about the long post.

Picasa Web Albums - rfj62 - Peeling paint

I need some advice on a painting situation that I am having. I redid my bathroom, took out and replaced the tub and tub surrounds, which, required me to redo the drywall. So I used the standard joint compound from Sheetrock that you get it Home Depot or Lowe's. The problem I am having is the paint keeps peeling off the wall, down to the joint compound. I used the Olympic Zero VOC primer and paint.

The first time it happened I thought maybe I didn't let the primer dry long enough before applying the paint, about 2 hours, so I respackled and let the primer dry over night before applying the paint. The paint seems soft to the touch and nicks very easy down to the joint compound. It does not peel off where there was already paint, only the joint compound.

The 3rd time I used Kilz primer with the same results.

I used 2 different primers, 2 separate joint compounds, the paint came out of 2 different cans. Did I get bad paint, would the paint pull the primer right off the joint compound, that's the only thing that I did change. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Picasa Web Albums - rfj62 - Peeling paint
 
  #2  
Old 05-13-10, 03:15 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 48,076
Received 398 Votes on 354 Posts
Welcome to the forums!

That's a lot of peeling

Did you replace the drywall? or just patch it up?
When the paint peels, is it taking any joint compound with it?
If the drywall is original, do you know what type of paint was on it?
How long does it take from the time the finish paint was applied until the peeling starts?
Is there a functioning exhaust fan in the room? is it used after showers?
Was the kilz - oil base? or latex?

Sorry for so many questions just trying to figure out what caused the peeling so we can figure out the best way to fix it.
 
  #3  
Old 05-13-10, 03:17 PM
S
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,630
Received 98 Votes on 86 Posts
First, welcome to the forums

Second, how long did you let the joint compound dry before you primed?
 
  #4  
Old 05-13-10, 03:43 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
'First, welcome to the forums'
Thanks

"how long did you let the joint compound dry before you primed?"
At least 24 hours. The same goes for the skim coats that I put on to blend in the where the paint didn't peel.

"Did you replace the drywall? or just patch it up?"
I replaced the drywall around the tub, tub surrounds with 1/2" waterproof stuff, the green stuff and I just patched a few other spots.

'When the paint peels, is it taking any joint compound with it?'
It doesn't seem to be.

'How long does it take from the time the finish paint was applied until the peeling starts?'
Within a day or so. I should clarify that it doesn't peel on its own, it starts by just a nick from a fingernail or something and then I can just peel it off. It just seems soft. I also noticed that when painting it seemed like there was a lot of small bubbles on the wall after painting and they never went away.

'Is there a functioning exhaust fan in the room? is it used after showers?'
There is but I we haven't even used the shower or anything in the bathroom yet.

'Was the kilz - oil base? or latex?'
Latex.

Thanks for brainstorming for me. Jeff
 
  #5  
Old 05-13-10, 04:10 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 48,076
Received 398 Votes on 354 Posts
IMO the green water resistant drywall has out lived it's usefulness. Enamel paint gives the drywall all the protection it needs. Because of the wax [?] impregnated in the drywall it also prevents good adhesion

I'd clean it up the best you can and make any needed repairs. I'd then use an oil base primer. That should help promote better adhesion. Your low voc finish paint can be applied over the primer - just be sure to let it dry properly [24 hrs should be fine] I'd feel better about using a quality kitchen and bath paint for a top coat...... but using an oil primer should stop the peeling from returning.

One more thing - after sanding the drywall, be sure to remove the sanding dust
 
  #6  
Old 05-13-10, 05:29 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
There is no drywall showing because I had to blend from the tub shower to the existing walls, so I don't think that's the factor.

Also, I vacuumed the wall with the shop vac and wiped it down with a damp cloth to get all the dust off.

I also did use a kitchen and bath paint.

Any idea why there would be small bubbles left after rolling the paint on? I used the rollers that are made for kitchen/bath the first time, then used the standard roller the second time.

Why would the paint seem to be soft after a day or even after a week?

Thanks for your replies.
 
  #7  
Old 05-14-10, 04:53 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 48,076
Received 398 Votes on 354 Posts
While latex paints dry to the touch quickly, they take up to 2 weeks to cure - fully harden..... and some latex enamels never dry to a hard film. The bubbles indicate the paint isn't bonding as it should.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by regular roller and roller for K&B
Are you talking about the roller cover/nap size? maybe 3/8" the first time and then switching to 1/2"? The roller cover used shouldn't make any difference in the paint adhesion. Roller nap size has more to do with how much paint the roller will hold and the size of the roller stipple left on the wall.

I've used very little latex kilz, mostly because it's a poor stain sealer. There have been reports that it has adhesion issues. Whenever there are adhesion issues it's best to use a solvent based primer [they adhere better to problematic surfaces]
 
  #8  
Old 05-14-10, 05:06 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
'I'm not sure I understand what you mean by regular roller and roller for K&B'

My regular roller I meant multi-purpose rollers, standard rollers that you buy in HD. The other ones I bought were specifically for K&B, not sue what classifies that as that but that's what they were, probably just wording to get idiots like me to spend the extra $.

I guess I'll try the oil based primer.

Thanks for the input.
 
  #9  
Old 05-14-10, 08:38 PM
W
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Canada
Posts: 634
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I've never heards of a K&B roller sleeve either and I've bought hundreds of sleeves of all shapes and sizes. Either way, I'm with Marksr. I'd try repriming the troubled spots with an oil based primer. Better adhesion and sealing qualities.

The 'blistering' or bubbles you are mentioning can happen if there's residual dust left behind from sanding. You mentioned you shop vacced and used a damp cloth. I don't think I'd use a damp cloth. Give the walls a good wipe down with a dry cloth starting at the top and working down. Shop vacs never get all the drywall dust on their own. My personal opinion is that nothing ever does!
 
  #10  
Old 05-19-10, 05:18 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I bought a good oil primer, so I am almost ready to start again, but have one other question to throw out.

I use a Walboard rasp and then a 3M fine sanding sponge in my prep, is it possible that I made the joint compound too smooth?
 
  #11  
Old 05-20-10, 04:05 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 48,076
Received 398 Votes on 354 Posts
I wouldn't think so although it's preferable to use a sanding pole or block that keeps the sandpaper flat. Using a sanding sponge or folded sandpaper can result with an uneven finish - your fingers can give uneven pressure = uneven sanding. 120 - 150 grit is plenty fine enough for the final sanding.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: