Filling knot holes in Cedar Sidind


  #1  
Old 11-30-00, 06:54 AM
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I have a rough cedar siding on the house.
I used Durhams and regular wood putty to fill knots and cracks etc.

I then used a red wood stain to refinish the stained
walls, but the stain comes off the fillers.

What kind of a filler can I use that my stain will adhere to?
 
  #2  
Old 12-01-00, 04:32 AM
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At the pro paint stores they carry a stainable wood filler, be sure that it is completely dry before staining, you can probably dig out the putty that is not taking the stain and replace with the stainable wood filler and touch-up, this should be fairly easy on rough cedar.

Chip
 
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Old 12-02-00, 03:24 PM
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Filing knot holes in Cedar Siding

Originally posted by Chipfo
At the pro paint stores they carry a stainable wood filler, be sure that it is completely dry before staining, you can probably dig out the putty that is not taking the stain and replace with the stainable wood filler and touch-up, this should be fairly easy on rough cedar.

Chip
Thanks for the reply Chipfo
Would you know of the brand name of the stainable filler?

My problems were caused by the advice I got from the local stores. So maybe a specific product name would help.

Thanks again

Joe H
 
  #4  
Old 12-02-00, 08:50 PM
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There are several, depending on which store you go to, I would recomend Bondex Water Putty Wood Patch or Ready-Mixed Latex Wood Patch. There is also Elmers and Minwax wood fillers that take stain. The water based formulated wood fillers are going to take the stain best in most cases. Make sure the filler is completely dry before staining, especially in this colder weather. If the fillers don't take enough of the stain to match the wood to your satisfaction you can always use a very small brush or q-tip and go back and touch up the light spots. Heck you may even be able to match the ruffness of the cedar with one of those unbreakable combs or a dry paint brush while the filler is still wet, just be sure to clean the brush directly after.

Hope this helps - Chip
 
  #5  
Old 12-04-00, 06:53 PM
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A big THANKS Chipfo

Thanks much for the information.
A friend of mine notified me today he has the same problem.
But he had just stained his whole house after using Durhams filler as recommended. He is facing a big doover and expense.
I had only done one end of the garage as a trial because I was given conflicting advise, so it isn't quite so bad, except for all the trips up the ladder!

I told him about the advice from you and he sends thanks also.

Question: He was told to get the regular tube caulk and squeese it onto a pallet then fill the holes with a putty knife. Is tube caulk stainable?

Thanks Again

Joe H
 
  #6  
Old 12-04-00, 07:27 PM
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You are welcome, Durhams water putty can be colored while it is being mixed, after it dries it does not take stain well, as you know.

DO NOT use caulk, it will not take the stain, even if you use before painting, it shrinks too much to fill holes, caulk is used for where the trim meets the wall and at the joints and corners when painting, not for staining.

By the way, if you ever do caulk before painting (like trim or exterior caulking) be sure to use a paintable one.
 
  #7  
Old 12-04-00, 07:39 PM
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I just noticed you said "he had just stained his whole house after using Durhams filler as recommended"

When I stain interior trim I use colored putty (oil based) to match the stain, first I stain the wood, then apply sanding sealer, sand lightly, then I putty, then two finish coats. Sometimes I have to mix diferent colors to get a match, if it is just small nail holes, that is how I recomend it done.

Chip
 
 

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