3M blue tape pulled off paint underneath - what went wrong, how to fix?

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Old 04-21-12, 06:22 AM
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3M blue tape pulled off paint underneath - what went wrong, how to fix?

Hi all,

As you can see from my photos, when I removed my masking tape (the 3M blue stuff) it pulled the paint off the wall underneath. It took everything, all the way down to the plaster, which includes 2 coats of Killz 2 and 2 coats of SW contractor egg shell. The pictures don't show it, but in the other corner the paint bubbled but did not tear when I removed the tape. The bubble seems to have gone down, so I think that side will be fine.

Click for full-sized pic.

Here's why I think it should not have happened:
  1. The first coat of primer was fully cured (~6 months), so I do not think it should have come off under any circumstances.
  2. I also thought Killz 2 was a very good primer.
  3. I only had the tape on the wall for 20 minutes, tops. I taped about 2 yards, painted the trim, and then pulled the paint off.
But I can also imaging a few possible problems:
  1. The SW top coat was the cheap stuff and almost four years old, left over from an old project.
  2. It's in a basement, so it's a pretty damp environment to begin with.
  3. I only let the wall coats dry for about 18 hours.
So, my questions for the forum are: what did I do wrong and how do I fix it. I'm afraid if I start pulling on those curled edges the problem will snowball and I'll end up pulling down a couple feet of paint.

Thanks everyone!
 
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Old 04-21-12, 06:32 AM
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Since the paint is not stuck to the wall you are going to have to pull it. You can cut the loose stuff off with a razor blade. You will then need to fill the "paint hole", sand and repaint.

I suggest not using any tape and just cut in your paint. It takes time and practice, but you can do it with a good quality brush. I like to use one with an angle tip. Only use tape so you don't have any oops drips.

The pros will have more insights.
 
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Old 04-21-12, 06:35 AM
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I've not used much kilz 2 but it does have a reputation for having adhesion problems - I don't know if that played a part or not. What was the condition of the wall before the kilz was applied? Generally it's not a good idea to apply tape over latex paint that was applied in the last 72 hrs - 1 week is better. The bubble that settled back down is still a problem area but you can post pone dealing with it.

The peeled areas should be scraped off. Sometimes you can take a utility knife and cut thru the paint just past the peeled area to limit the amount that comes off. Check the plaster/drywall - if it's chalky, apply a coat of oil base primer or Zinnser's Gardz. Then apply a thin coat of joint compound, sand, dust, prime and paint.
 
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Old 04-21-12, 06:52 AM
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I've not used much kilz 2 but it does have a reputation for having adhesion problems.
Eeek! I thought I had chosen a quality primer. What would you use for a bathroom. It's in a basement, so I'm hoping for really good moisture resistance.

What was the condition of the wall before the kilz was applied?
New construction, green drywall and joint compound.

Check the plaster/drywall - if it's chalky, apply a coat of oil base primer or Zinnser's Gardz. Then apply a thin coat of joint compound, sand, dust, prime and paint.
I'm not sure what chalky would mean. To me joint compound always looks a bit chalky.

Finally--please don't yell at me, I know it was stupid--but I used all of the wall color. None left. Is there any clever way to paint it white or trim color without it being too obvious?

Thanks guys!
 
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Old 04-21-12, 02:02 PM
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If I'm priming the entire house [new construction] I generally use the same wall primer throughout the house. With SWP I'll use a primer from their preprite line. When it's just the bath rm getting primed I like to use a latex enamel undercoater. The primer type isn't as important as the finish. A full bath walls/ceiling should always be painted with a latex enamel, a bath enamel [has more mildewcide] is even better.

Did you wipe the dust off of the drywall before you primed it? That's probably the most common mistake made when painting new drywall. Chalkiness can describe either the sanding dust left on the drywall or degraded paint - it's the white film that will stick to your finger when you drag it across the surface.

Unless you poured out leftover paint, there isn't anything stupid about using it all up. SWP has a good reputation for being able to mix multiple containers of paint and have them all match. Depending on the color and line used, you might be able to just by 1 qt of paint to do your touch up. Other than nailing up a piece of trim [painted trim color] to hide the damage there really isn't an aesthetically pleasing way to paint the repairs any color other than the wall color.
 
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Old 04-22-12, 03:25 PM
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Thanks marksr. Regarding the dust, I was working with someone else at the time at it was supposed to be his job, but sure enough, when I wiped my finger over the exposed plaster, my finger came away a little white from plaster dust. Oh well.

I think a little block of trim would actually make a nice accent there. In fact, I might just run trim all the way up the lip of the shower to further protect the wall from moisture.
 
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Old 04-24-12, 05:40 AM
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For future reference, tape needs to be removed while the paint is still wet or you need to cut the junction between the tape and the wall to keep the tape from pulling the paint off with it.

As Tolyn suggested, not using tape at all should be in your thought process.
 
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