Marlite Painting in Bathroom
#1
06-12-12, 07:47 AM
Marlite Painting in Bathroom
Hello,
I have read a whole string of posts, most go way back, about folks trying to paint Marlite. But I've never seen an end result posted.
I'd like to know how it all turned out if somebody sees this who has tried painting Marlite.
My area to do are bathroom walls and what I've learned so far is to 'scuff it up', then prime and paint. I just want to know if this really works and holds up.
Thanks for any comments or suggestions.
I have read a whole string of posts, most go way back, about folks trying to paint Marlite. But I've never seen an end result posted.
I'd like to know how it all turned out if somebody sees this who has tried painting Marlite.
My area to do are bathroom walls and what I've learned so far is to 'scuff it up', then prime and paint. I just want to know if this really works and holds up.
Thanks for any comments or suggestions.
#2
06-12-12, 07:56 AM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums
No experience with this product but from what I read this makes sense. These directions seem pretty straight forward to me:
How to Paint Marlite Walls | eHow.com
Basically, it's get it clean, scuff the surface for better adhesion and then use the right primer and paint and you should be good to go.
No experience with this product but from what I read this makes sense. These directions seem pretty straight forward to me:
How to Paint Marlite Walls | eHow.com
Basically, it's get it clean, scuff the surface for better adhesion and then use the right primer and paint and you should be good to go.
#3
06-12-12, 08:07 AM
Thank you.
I have Kilz Premium exterior/interior primer/sealer/stain blocker but it is water base. Do you suppose that would work?
I have read the E-How information and that article does not specify any special type of primer.
Thanks for the quick reply.
I have Kilz Premium exterior/interior primer/sealer/stain blocker but it is water base. Do you suppose that would work?
I have read the E-How information and that article does not specify any special type of primer.
Thanks for the quick reply.
#4
06-12-12, 08:17 AM
Group Moderator
I am not a fan of the water based Kilz, I never use it.
Personally, I like the Zinnser line of primers. On something plastic-like, I would use an oil based primer.
Personally, I like the Zinnser line of primers. On something plastic-like, I would use an oil based primer.
#6
06-12-12, 02:34 PM
There are a few latex primers that claim to adhere well to finishes like Marlite but I don't trust them. I'm not sure if I've ever painted marlite but I have painted similar finishes - I always used either pigmented shellac [like zinnser's BIN] or an interior oil base primer. I would not use latex kilz!
Thanks, I will stick with an oil base for this - I don't need the paint sort of sliding off with the humidity, etc. in a bathroom.
#8
06-21-12, 08:16 AM
I put some Zinsser oil primer on a scrap piece of Marlite. I "scuffed up" part of it and left the other section alone.
Now, that is is dry I cannot make a mark in either section, I ran it under hot water and I still can't scratch up either area. I'd have to use something like a scraper to mark it up now.
So, would it still be necessary to scuff up all the walls before I prime and paint?
Thank you.
Now, that is is dry I cannot make a mark in either section, I ran it under hot water and I still can't scratch up either area. I'd have to use something like a scraper to mark it up now.
So, would it still be necessary to scuff up all the walls before I prime and paint?
Thank you.
#9
06-21-12, 08:22 AM
Group Moderator
Maybe not but it's less work to scuff sand now than to repair this down the road. So, yes, I would still scuff sand everything first - keep in mind, this is a very quick sanding, it should not take more than a few minutes total, as you're only trying to rough up the surface a little bit, not remove any substantial amount of material.
#12
06-28-12, 10:56 AM
Ok, I have scuffed and tried to get all the corners and in between decorative strips. Then I cleaned the walls a second time.
The scuffing made quite a mess but I didn't take it down too deep.
There is still some shine on the walls, is it ok to prime now or should I maybe scuff it up with a lighter paper?
Thank you for your great tips.
The scuffing made quite a mess but I didn't take it down too deep.
There is still some shine on the walls, is it ok to prime now or should I maybe scuff it up with a lighter paper?
Thank you for your great tips.
#14
06-28-12, 01:46 PM
You shouldn't need to do a perfect job of sanding. As long as you got the majority of it scuffed up - the oil primer and latex paint ought to adhere fine. The sheen doesn't need to be sanded off, just roughed up enough to give the primer a better chance to adhere well.
#15
07-05-12, 06:53 PM
I have oil primer on the walls now and it looks like I will need three coats to cover well. So what would be best - two primer and one paint or one primer and two coats of paint?
Also, should the decorative strips between the marlite sheets be caulked in the shower area?
Thanks very much.
Also, should the decorative strips between the marlite sheets be caulked in the shower area?
Thanks very much.
#16
07-06-12, 04:51 AM
If the entire wall has been coated with primer there is no need for a 2nd coat. 2 coats of finish will likely cover better and wear longer 
Are you painting the tub/shower surround? if so we need to discuss your top coat options!
Are you painting the tub/shower surround? if so we need to discuss your top coat options!
#17
07-06-12, 05:53 AM
Group Moderator
Yes, one coat of primer is sufficient, put on two coats of paint.
And I agree with Mark's thought - you're painting in the shower? Or just near it? That's different than what we thought you were doing.
And I agree with Mark's thought - you're painting in the shower? Or just near it? That's different than what we thought you were doing.
#21
07-06-12, 09:06 AM
You'll need caulk everything well! SWP used to have a shower stall paint but I couldn't find any info about it on their website - but it's been 20 yrs since I've used it. I suspect you'll need an epoxy of some type in order for the paint to last.
#23
07-06-12, 09:20 AM
When you go to the paint store be sure to let the paint rep know what primer you've applied. Some epoxys require a certain type of primer. If need be you can reprime with the correct primer. It all depends on what you wind up using for a topcoat.
#24
07-06-12, 01:44 PM
Ok, I have been trying to search this out. Would 'marine' paint for boats be what I need here? The primer I have on the walls now is Zinsser oil base called "Cover Stain".
I should add that this is a second bathroom so the shower is only used about once a week at the most. It is not a shower stall but a tub with a shower.
I just want to get this job done and I'm getting more confused the more I look at different paint types.
Thanks
I should add that this is a second bathroom so the shower is only used about once a week at the most. It is not a shower stall but a tub with a shower.
I just want to get this job done and I'm getting more confused the more I look at different paint types.
Thanks
#25
07-06-12, 01:56 PM
Group Moderator
Head to a local paint store and ask their advice - I'm sure the marine paint is not what you want but I don't know what would be the best choice in this situation.
The Zinsser primer may be ok but, as Mark mentioned, the right paint for this job may specify a certain primer be used underneath.
The Zinsser primer may be ok but, as Mark mentioned, the right paint for this job may specify a certain primer be used underneath.
#27
07-07-12, 04:38 AM
A marine paint might be ok but talking to a paint rep is really what you need to do. They'll know what coatings they sell and can help you make an informed decision on which coating will work best for you.
#29
07-09-12, 07:50 AM
Sherwin Williams is recommending "Duration Home" paint for this or epoxy but that comes in gallons. I only need to cover about 50 sq ft.
I've never heard of Duration Home, but it is available in a quart. Does this seem appropriate for my job?
Thank you.
I've never heard of Duration Home, but it is available in a quart. Does this seem appropriate for my job?
Thank you.
#30
07-09-12, 08:07 AM
Group Moderator
Personally, I always buy a gallon even if I don't need that much - it's been my experience that the paint in quart cans does not always have quite the same color as the paint in gallon cans. Doesn't make sense but I've had it happen....
Hang tight - Mark knows SWP really well, I'm sure he'll be able to answer your question.
Hang tight - Mark knows SWP really well, I'm sure he'll be able to answer your question.
#32
07-09-12, 08:26 AM
Yep, they get you there. At this point I don't even care about color!
The top of the walls is already painted to match the rest of the room and I only need the area over the tub where water might hit painted. It's all behind a curtain anyway.
For just an occasionally used shower this sure is causing me a lot of grief!
The top of the walls is already painted to match the rest of the room and I only need the area over the tub where water might hit painted. It's all behind a curtain anyway.
For just an occasionally used shower this sure is causing me a lot of grief!
#33
07-09-12, 09:14 AM
Quarts can't always be mixed to match the gallon formula. If the formula can be divided by 4, it will match but if it's an amount that can't be measured out - they'll either have to leave out that tint or add too much.
I'd trust the epoxy more than I would the latex enamel. The Duration Home enamel [I've not used it] may do ok. If you go that route, I'd recommend inspecting the shower walls every so often for any signs of paint failure. It's an easier fix if you catch it soon - not so easy if damage is already present.
I'd trust the epoxy more than I would the latex enamel. The Duration Home enamel [I've not used it] may do ok. If you go that route, I'd recommend inspecting the shower walls every so often for any signs of paint failure. It's an easier fix if you catch it soon - not so easy if damage is already present.
#35
07-09-12, 09:32 AM
Group Moderator
Don't use an exterior paint inside, not meant for that - chemical compositions allowed in exterior paint can exceed those which are allowed for interior paint.
#36
07-09-12, 09:38 AM
Exterior paints don't dry to as hard a film as interior paints do. It might preform as well as the duration interior enamel. Personally I'd have my doubts about using either and wouldn't if it was a customer's bath rm.
What Mitch is referring to is the off gassing of the exterior paint exceeds the amount that is allowed for interior use. It's all a matter of air quality!
What Mitch is referring to is the off gassing of the exterior paint exceeds the amount that is allowed for interior use. It's all a matter of air quality!
#39
07-09-12, 10:01 AM
Group Moderator
Personally, I have heard too many painting horror stories involving Behr paint that I won't use it so I can't advise on that choice. That said, Mark is our painting guru and his initial thought was an epoxy paint and the SWP store recommended that as well so it would be my choice. My philosophy is the cost of the paint is insignificant, I pay for the right product for the job.
#40
07-09-12, 10:36 AM
My concern is any latex enamel won't be durable enough for trouble free use on shower walls. If the walls are dried off after each shower, latex enamel might do ok but for a trouble free coating you'll need to step up to something like an epoxy.
That said, cement board and tile isn't all the expensive to diy and no worry about it failing.
That said, cement board and tile isn't all the expensive to diy and no worry about it failing.
