'puckered' drywall under primer
#1
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'puckered' drywall under primer
Well I got all the wallpaper and glue off and damaged some of the drywall in the process - been there and done that in several rooms before. Thought I got it all repaired but now that I'm priming there are several spots where I didn't think I had to mud and now I guess the paper covering on the drywall was 'too thin'? In these spots there is 'puckering'. What to do - wait for it to dry, score with a knife and remove the paper and repair again with drywall mud?
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I have removed miles and miles of wallpaper, and I am assuming that what you are calling puckering to be remaining glue.
When you prime leftover wallpaper glue, you get a sort of mottled texture. Wait until the primer dries (really dries), give it a good sanding to take off all you can and reprime the area affected.
When you prime leftover wallpaper glue, you get a sort of mottled texture. Wait until the primer dries (really dries), give it a good sanding to take off all you can and reprime the area affected.
#3
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Is the puckering rough areas where the glue wasn't removed completely or is the paper covering of the drywall loose?
When ever you can't remove ALL the wallpaper adhesive or have any bare gypsum it is best to coat those areas with either an oil base primer or Zinnser's Gardz.
When ever you can't remove ALL the wallpaper adhesive or have any bare gypsum it is best to coat those areas with either an oil base primer or Zinnser's Gardz.
#4
Yeah it sounds to me like marksr is on the right track. When the paper on drywall is torn and you apply wet mud onto it, the moisture in the mud will sometimes raise the paper, causing it to bubble a little bit. Then when it dries, you have a dry bubble with air behind it... not a solid surface that you can apply more mud over.
So I'd also suggest you wait for it to dry, tear/scrape off any areas that have lifted, and prime with oil primer as he suggested. The oil paint will seal the paper and/or gypsum so that it will accept mud without bubbling.
So I'd also suggest you wait for it to dry, tear/scrape off any areas that have lifted, and prime with oil primer as he suggested. The oil paint will seal the paper and/or gypsum so that it will accept mud without bubbling.
#5
Just be cautious about priming unstable drywall paper. In my experience, if the areas are small, you can cut out a "football" around the bubble, removing paper back to the gypsum and skim coat
to repair the problem. If the blistering is extensive, i.e. major portion of the wall, then go with the Gardz as suggensted. Sometimes, the more you tinker, the worse the problem gets. Particularly if the area has experienced a lot of moisture and mold. There is a point also that replacing the drywall is more efficient than the constant trying to patch. Said only from some commercial assignments with wet cinder block wall and furring strips that have molded with drywall over it all. Mold was also present and deteriorating the backing paper. Each situation is unique.
to repair the problem. If the blistering is extensive, i.e. major portion of the wall, then go with the Gardz as suggensted. Sometimes, the more you tinker, the worse the problem gets. Particularly if the area has experienced a lot of moisture and mold. There is a point also that replacing the drywall is more efficient than the constant trying to patch. Said only from some commercial assignments with wet cinder block wall and furring strips that have molded with drywall over it all. Mold was also present and deteriorating the backing paper. Each situation is unique.
#6
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Any exposed gypsum needs to be sealed with oil based or Zinsser Gardz primer - this would add a step to what czizzi just proposed.
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Thanks for all the replies. It's not glue, but spots where the paper was slightly damaged and I probably took off my skim coat when sanding. At any rate, now that it's completely dry, the puckering is gone and those spots are solid. Someone mentioned 'blistering' - that's probably a better description.