Advice on whether or not to texture paint


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Old 11-25-12, 10:22 AM
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Advice on whether or not to texture paint

I remodelled my bathroom and it's getting to be time to paint. The rest of my house has a typical sand texture on the walls and ceilings. I'm trying to decide whether or not I want to texture the walls and ceiling. I have never done it before, and I'm trying to decide whether the look the texturing gives me is worth the risk of screwing it up.

I was wondering if any DIYers could provide their opinion on how difficult it would be to get a sand texture to look good for a first-timer like me. If it's going to be tricky to get it right, I might just skip the texturing-- I'd hate to have done such a good job on everything else up until now, and then ugly it up by screwing up the paint job. The rest of my house isn't amazingly well-constructed (poor drywall taping, yuo can see paint globs from previous paint jobs, etc.) so it's not like a less-than-perfect job would be below-par for this house.

Thanks!
 
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Old 11-25-12, 10:52 AM
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I doubt anyone but you would notice....

If the tape and walls are good...I'd prime and paint. Prime is a must on new sheetrock from what I read here.
 
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Old 11-25-12, 11:03 AM
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My first thought was to match the existing in the house, but with a bathroom, smooth walls might be easier to clean. Maybe just texture on the ceiling?
 
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Old 11-25-12, 11:08 AM
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Bath rms often don't have texture because of the moisture factor. Hopefully your new bath rm has a good vent fan Sand texture is probably one of the easier textures to apply.

As noted above it's best to prime any bare/unpainted drywall. The finish paint needs to be a latex enamel [any sheen] for bare minimum, better yet a kitchen and bath enamel [has more mildewcide and is formulated for the harsher environment of a bath rm]
 
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Old 11-25-12, 12:23 PM
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Not sure what a "typical sand texture" is, but I can off this. The big box stores offer a product that is a textured paint. Not the kind you tint, but one that is rolled on. It is similar to a very gritty thick runny paste (oxymoron?). Anyway, you apply it with a roller and go back and forth until you achieve the desired texture thickness. Might be worth a try on some of the scrap drywall you have left after your remodel. See if it matches the balance of your house. It may require the purchase of a special textured paint roller cover. I only used the product once to match a repair I did to drywall around a skylight in a FROG. Was able to blend to existing texture fairly easily.
 
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Old 11-26-12, 06:22 AM
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My house has orange peel texture on all the walls and ceilings except the bathrooms, they're smooth.
 
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Old 11-29-12, 02:31 PM
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Just took a break and decided to browse DIY and came across your thread. I am at the same stage in remodel. Not an authority, also a first time 'do it myselfer'. Installed wainscott on the lower half of the bathroom walls and currently sanding joints and corners on the ceiling and walls. It's an old home, thus corners and walls are not necessarily square or straight so decided to paint with a primer/sealer and if none of the defects are that noticible then I do not intend texturing. If understand correctly, the higher the sheen the more moisture resistant and easier to clean, perhaps more knowledgeable member will provide additional info.

Just for info purposes: I purchased a Sand/Kleen aqua filtration sys. the small version runs around $25-$30 and does keep dust to a minimum.
 
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Old 11-29-12, 02:42 PM
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Yes, the higher the sheen the more moisture and scrub resistance but also the more it shows through any imperfections in the surface underneath.
 
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Old 11-29-12, 03:56 PM
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While a higher sheen does provide a little more sheen and scrubability, the difference is minimal as long as you are using quality enamels. A satin or eggshell latex enamel is fine for most residential bath rms.
 
 

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