paint over wood -- real wood, untreated
#1
04-03-13, 05:46 PM
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paint over wood -- real wood, untreated
Hi Marksr or PJmax, different question : I want to paint over wood -- real wood, untreated -- that is a half wall. I don't know if it is pine or oak, but I want it to look as much like drywall as possible (i.e., I don't want to see the grain). How can I do that? Will putting on a coat of the pigmented shellac work? Should I sand the wood first?
#2
04-04-13, 01:57 AM
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To get a smooth finish the wood needs to be sanded. I would think that the shellac would be a good choice first.
See what Mark thinks as this is his specialty.
See what Mark thinks as this is his specialty.
#3
04-04-13, 03:41 AM
There is a big difference between oak and pine. Pics should help us help you identify it - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
If the wood is old, it may need sanding to help the primer adhere better. If it's rough it needs sanding. Generally an oil base primer followed by 1-2 coats of your choice of finish paint [sanding between coats] will produce a nice finish. Oak often needs a filler for the grain although latex paints will fill the grain better than oil base finishes.
If the wood is old, it may need sanding to help the primer adhere better. If it's rough it needs sanding. Generally an oil base primer followed by 1-2 coats of your choice of finish paint [sanding between coats] will produce a nice finish. Oak often needs a filler for the grain although latex paints will fill the grain better than oil base finishes.
#4
04-05-13, 12:12 PM
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Is an oil based primer different from pigmented shellac? I ask because I wondered whether I can prime the wood wall and the laminate shelves with the same thing. I'm attaching a picture of the wood wall. It's pretty clear it's not pine, but I don't know if it's plywood or oak. As I said, the idea is to no longer see the grain. I hope the attachment works . . .
#5
04-05-13, 02:05 PM
Pigmented shellac is the ultimate primer when adhesion or stain covering is needed. It also dries fast. Zinnser's BIN is the most commonly found brand. Almost forgot to mention - it's also the stinkiest 
Oil base primers are generally adequate for priming over poly/varnish especially if the poly receives a scuff sanding first. You should be able to use the same primer over both the trim and the paneling. If there is any wax/polish on the wood it needs to be removed first.
Oil base primers are generally adequate for priming over poly/varnish especially if the poly receives a scuff sanding first. You should be able to use the same primer over both the trim and the paneling. If there is any wax/polish on the wood it needs to be removed first.
#6
04-06-13, 09:55 AM
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I've run into my first problem. What I have found is "Zinnser Bullseye Shellac Amber". Amber is a pigment but is that what you meant? Would it clash with my paint?
#7
04-06-13, 10:43 AM
Bullseye amber shellac is more or less clear with an amber tint and is used as a soft finish. BIN is a white pigmented shellac that is intended to be only used as a primer. I'm having internet connection problems - I'll try to provide you with a link later.
#8
04-06-13, 11:13 AM
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It looks like the Home Depot guy pointed me to the wrong thing -- he insisted the Amber shellac was the only thing they had. Is this the right thing?
"Zinsser White B-I-N Shellac Interior and Spot Exterior Primer and Sealer"
Zinsser 1-Qt. White B-I-N Shellac Interior and Spot Exterior Primer and Sealer-00904 at The Home Depot
"Zinsser White B-I-N Shellac Interior and Spot Exterior Primer and Sealer"
Zinsser 1-Qt. White B-I-N Shellac Interior and Spot Exterior Primer and Sealer-00904 at The Home Depot
#9
04-06-13, 11:48 AM
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Yep, that's the one. Home Depot definitely carries the stuff.
Be sure you can open windows and maybe even run a fan when you're applying this stuff. I'd also recommend running a fan and wear a respirator if you've got one.
I'd also recommend you use a disposable brush. This stuff is so sticky and dries so fast it'll likely kill any brush you're using. I've never met a painter who ever tried to clean their brushes they use with BIN.
Be sure you can open windows and maybe even run a fan when you're applying this stuff. I'd also recommend running a fan and wear a respirator if you've got one.
I'd also recommend you use a disposable brush. This stuff is so sticky and dries so fast it'll likely kill any brush you're using. I've never met a painter who ever tried to clean their brushes they use with BIN.
#10
04-06-13, 12:02 PM
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Thanks. I was actually planning to use and throw away a foam roller instead of a brush because I'm worried about brush marks. That's okay isn't it?
#11
04-06-13, 03:34 PM
I normally use an old roller, I can't say for certain if it will work ok with a foam roller - I never use them. Like most I normally use an old brush and toss it after using pigmented shellac although occasionally I'll need to use a brush I want to keep so I'll clean it with denatured alcohol. I've heard ammonia will also clean up pigmented shellac but have never tried it so I can say for sure.
